Have you checked the table for flatness after welding? I did a similar repair to a meddings drill table with the usual drill smile. I fixed the holes in it but the welding warped the table so it now has bow in it, anything you try to drill rocks quite a lot! It will need surface ground to get it flat again, just can't find anyone I can trust to do it properly!
- Thread starter Smouser
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Have you checked the table for flatness after welding? I did a similar repair to a meddings drill table with the usual drill smile. I fixed the holes in it but the welding warped the table so it now has bow in it, anything you try to drill rocks quite a lot! It will need surface ground to get it flat again, just can't find anyone I can trust to do it properly!
Smouser
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Turbo,
The table is probably as flat as what it was from factory. I have not checked the flatness across the whole length of the table (due to my square being too short) but over all the areas of the repair it is flat (see point 5 below).
This is the fourth table I repaired and dare I say it, I am getting better at it.
Things I have learned from my limited experience and comments from other forums members:
1. Ensure the table is as clean as possible (degreased, rust removed etc).
2. Use some heat to draw out some old oil/other contaminants in the cast iron (blow torch or similar).
3. Because I cant heat the whole table evenly (like in a big oven) I use the cold weld method (only weld short runs, let the whole thing cool down before welding again). This means a repair normally takes a few days.
4. Use a flap disc in a grinder VERY carefully. I now only use the flap disc to grind some of the proud weld off (while still leaving it proud of the table) and do not try to get it flat with the table's surface. What has happened on some of the previous tables repair attempts was that the flap disc would come into contact with the table itself and then 'lower' those areas around the weld.
Look at this Startrite table I repaired where I used a flap disc too much and 'lowered' some areas of the cast iron table (mainly in the centre around the hole). While bigger things would not wobble some very small items might wobble in the centre of that Startrite table)
5. I use hand files to get the table flat. I have 12" files without handles (a bastard, nr2 and a fine). I lay the files flat on the table and because the cast iron is much harder than the nickel weld infill (Esab OK 92.18 rods) I find that the file glides across the cast iron and only bites on the nickel weld. I progressively use the files to get the weld flat and blended in.
6. When I get blow holes, I drill them out and try to fill them again.
Finally, I 'need' a surface grinder to ease and speed up this whole process.
I will add it it to my wish list of machines. Milling machine, lathe and surface grinder.
brightspark
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best mill the top flat 1st then use a surface grinder there not designed for deep cuts just fine finish
indy4x
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Get an end mill, pop it in the drill chuck and go for it
Have used carbide end/slot mill in my pillar drill to take out snapped off studs and bolts
Gritineye
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I did a similar welded repair to my Atlas drill press table, using the wisdom acquired over way too many decades of winging it, I thought it would be a good idea to remove the resulting distortion with my shaper.
I can't describe just how much my Shaper protested at being asked to cut both the weld and the parent cast part at the same speed and feed rate.
Anyone who remembers the sound of a train riding on jointed rails will know the sound!
I would advise anyone with a similarly butchered table to do the sensible thing and ignore it!
Smouser
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I have acquired another drill table which a blind man used before I got it.
The holes are so deep and so many it will cost a fortune to weld it up with cast iron nickel rods, not to mention that it will take me ages to arc weld it up.
Therefore, I have decided to try and experiment - mig welding the table in short bursts letting the table cool down in between welding.
I will then either do the final 'pass' with cast iron nickel rods or I will just keep going with the mig.
Because I have a milling machine with a face mill and a small shaper now, I could try and 'resurface' the whole table afterwards.
This is as far as I got so far.
Stay tuned for a possible good outcome or more likely a huge disaster
Therefore, I have decided to try and experiment - mig welding the table in short bursts letting the table cool down in between welding.
I will then either do the final 'pass' with cast iron nickel rods or I will just keep going with the mig.
Because I have a milling machine with a face mill and a small shaper now, I could try and 'resurface' the whole table afterwards.
This is as far as I got so far.
Stay tuned for a possible good outcome or more likely a huge disaster
Nice repairs !!!!. It does prompt me to ask the question : What brain dead moron drills the damn table to begin with ?.
My old drill press I have had for 30 years, have drilled 10 million holes ( I even use it for drilling printed circuit boards ).
and the table is perfect. Not a single mark or even a scratch. Its super soft chinese pillar drill to begin with.
Still cost nearly a thousand bucks when I bought it though. I guess it comes down to respecting ones tools.
Joe
My old drill press I have had for 30 years, have drilled 10 million holes ( I even use it for drilling printed circuit boards ).
and the table is perfect. Not a single mark or even a scratch. Its super soft chinese pillar drill to begin with.
Still cost nearly a thousand bucks when I bought it though. I guess it comes down to respecting ones tools.
Joe
Smouser
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Thank you,!
I am really not too sure, that is why I said a blind man must have had it before me
Now, don't get me wrong, everybody could make a little mistake (I made a small mark on my drill press vice due to laziness and not paying attention) but some of these drill tables have really been butchered!
Smouser
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I decided to continue to mig weld the table (sorry @nickk ).
It is an experiment after all.
I turned the feed and volts down to try and minimise the amount of heat I put into the table which made it more difficult to weld.
Prepare yourself for the photo below, it does NOT look good.
Off to the milling machine!
The first pass done, it only touched on a few places which were the highest
I took 0.3mm - 0.4mm cut on each pass.
Short video of the milling, excuse the shaky camera, I am trying to avoid the super hot chips that keep jumping inside my collar.
It is an experiment after all.
I turned the feed and volts down to try and minimise the amount of heat I put into the table which made it more difficult to weld.
Prepare yourself for the photo below, it does NOT look good.
Off to the milling machine!
The first pass done, it only touched on a few places which were the highest
I took 0.3mm - 0.4mm cut on each pass.
Short video of the milling, excuse the shaky camera, I am trying to avoid the super hot chips that keep jumping inside my collar.
Smouser
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Yes, no cracks!
I missed a couple of small spots when I did that crazy welding but I am not going to bother welding those very small holes up again.
An orbital sander should work well enough to remove the last remaining high spots of the welds so the table is flat again/blended in with the cast iron.
Alternatively, I could still try to 'resurface' the whole table with the shaper but I don't think that will be needed.
If I only had a surface grinder.......
I missed a couple of small spots when I did that crazy welding but I am not going to bother welding those very small holes up again.
An orbital sander should work well enough to remove the last remaining high spots of the welds so the table is flat again/blended in with the cast iron.
Alternatively, I could still try to 'resurface' the whole table with the shaper but I don't think that will be needed.
If I only had a surface grinder.......
Smouser
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If you can't weld properly, be sure to be an expert on a grinder or have a milling machineI need a Milling Machine!
Then my welds might end up looking nice
The welds I have done on the table looks awful - it is a combination of using a very low setting on the welder, only doing short little blasts to keep the heat down and me not being very practised in welding either.
However, the table is an improvement so I happy enough with it.
I reckon the table is a massive improvement!If you can't weld properly, be sure to be an expert on a grinder or have a milling machine
The welds I have done on the table looks awful - it is a combination of using a very low setting on the welder, only doing short little blasts to keep the heat down and me not being very practised in welding either.
However, the table is an improvement so I happy enough with it.
Given that you mig-welded it, which shouldn't work, or should have cracked - that's a proper result that IMO
- I'd be extremely happy with it!
MattF
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If you can't weld properly, be sure to be an expert on a grinder or have a milling machine
The welds I have done on the table looks awful - it is a combination of using a very low setting on the welder, only doing short little blasts to keep the heat down and me not being very practised in welding either.
However, the table is an improvement so I happy enough with it.
I've seen worse done by so-called professionals.
