Kent
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Difficult without seeing but then consider drilling the ends and fish plating with stitches maybe. Don't just take this advice though because I have not seen it in the flesh
- Thread starter Joe45
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Davidcardiff
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Athy in Kildare
Kent
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Why exactly would you like to mig it?
I just like mig there's less stops and starts no Slag inclusion . I know there's a lot of debate on the strength of a mig vs stick. And I know if the mig hasn't the amps it can just leave a nice weld bead laying on top of the joint with no penetrasion
Bill Edwards
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I suggest putting up a photo before doing this job, as if there are multiple cracks in one area it may not be as straightforward as gouging and re-welding.
Davidcardiff
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Not full time but near enough
Supplies are hard to get full stop in Ireland
Walsh’s are pretty good
KWS ok but can be pricey
EPT are great aswell
I totally agree supplies are really hard to get here. I was looking at the website and ept have 7018 rods vac packed so I think I'm going to get some . Walsh's have a good range of them they even have 7014 rods . I'm not sure if my transpocket 150 will run them though. What kind of welders do you have .
Davidcardiff
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Arclikeharrypotter
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Weld what you want with 150A of power. 3.2mm electrode is about the max you'll run, could probably push a 4.0mm out of it V up. The old transpockets were lovely machines I'm sure the new one is even better.
cianh91
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Supplies in Ireland are not that hard got to be honest .
Ept are way over priced .
Walshes aren’t too bad .
Wws are good if you can wait prices are reasonable .
Bradshaws welding range is expanding by the day .
I’m based in Kildare and iv no problem getting supplies
Ept are way over priced .
Walshes aren’t too bad .
Wws are good if you can wait prices are reasonable .
Bradshaws welding range is expanding by the day .
I’m based in Kildare and iv no problem getting supplies
Kent
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No that isn't the way generally. Each corner intersection will more than. Likely crack.
Photos will tell more but the general way is fix the weld that's cracked (because you can't leave it). Drill the ends of cracks in the arm structure to prevent further and then reinforce over with what is called a fish plate. It's a sort of losenge shape plate. Touch simply stich this on and the losenge / coffin shape corners allow a mid section stich and then some along all four sides even.
The corners are stress risers so you avoid them, the stitched on plate beefs things up over the cracks. The holes in the end of each helps prevent elongation of the crack.
However in view of the critical nature of this assembly one should seek proper advice because in the event of a catastrophic failure and a person being injured or worse thier are going to be some suits about looking to blame some mug - don't let it be you and seek proper advice (its not just a welding job and the rod used could be one of the least relivent bits of the puzzle.)
Bill Edwards
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7016 tend to be thinner, which can be useful on fillet joints when a thick flux prevents the rod from getting right into the joint.
