Mid Wales welder
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That has been done walking the cup. You can see the scratchs above and below the weld from the ceramic.
- Thread starter Silvertig
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That has been done walking the cup. You can see the scratchs above and below the weld from the ceramic.
As said the top pic was made 'walking the cup' with no pulse or other bells and whistles- the weave is a tell tale and the marks from the ceramic cup are proof. The other two pics were made with pulse and while the weldor was a good hand (steady hand/consistant arc length etc) the pulse frequency was too low for the travel speed... fish eye defects from the weld pool cooling/freezing between pulses which should've been remelted/covered by the next cycle i.e. freeze lines too far apart
Seano
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HI Wozzaah,
I fully agree with you but i cant help to admire theses people who can weld with such precession and i was wandering if there are settings they use to make there welds look so good
I totally agree with Wozzaah, not bad for a beginner, but the welds you admire so much have been produced buy some one with many yrs of walking the cup under their belt, keep practicing it will get better
justmental
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if this is the one in the picture that you are using it has pulse
Paul.
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The patten in the first pictures looks like the bead was run twice and in opposite directions?
Im going to give that a go next
Its just the pattern created by weaving, as a learner you would be better off learning to control the torch conventionally before trying all this cup walking, it has its place, but not on small fillets,
As welded, ie pre cleaning, and no scratches from dragging the ceramic
There's already been a link to a vid posted, here's another one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rX85gwfKh8U, plenty more by typing 'walking the cup tig' into google vids/youtube
As said learning how to freehand is FAR more useful and important... walking has it's place but there's not always room to wave your wrist/the torch about, the weave that results is more suitable with heavy wall stuff than thinner material and as it leaves tell tale marks on stainless you can imagine the marks that'd occur if you walk a weld on something softer like ally. Learning to be ambidextrous (weld and feed wire with either hand) is FAR, FAR more useful than cup walking. Both are something to add to the arsenal after getting to grips with freehanding/convential techniques using your preferred hand- downhand to begin with, then horizontal, vertical etc sat/stood and then same again while laying on the ground/doing an impression of a contortionist 'cause there's stuff in the way etc
As said learning how to freehand is FAR more useful and important... walking has it's place but there's not always room to wave your wrist/the torch about, the weave that results is more suitable with heavy wall stuff than thinner material and as it leaves tell tale marks on stainless you can imagine the marks that'd occur if you walk a weld on something softer like ally. Learning to be ambidextrous (weld and feed wire with either hand) is FAR, FAR more useful than cup walking. Both are something to add to the arsenal after getting to grips with freehanding/convential techniques using your preferred hand- downhand to begin with, then horizontal, vertical etc sat/stood and then same again while laying on the ground/doing an impression of a contortionist 'cause there's stuff in the way etc
Its just the pattern created by weaving, as a learner you would be better off learning to control the torch conventionally before trying all this cup walking, it has its place, but not on small fillets,
As welded, ie pre cleaning, and no scratches from dragging the ceramic
was that pre hand or walking the cup, looks good
Paul.
Moderator
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Freehand, as said develop a proper torch technique, get yourself comfortable, learn how to hold an arc gap and feed the rod consistently and you won't need to rest the cup.was that pre hand or walking the cup, looks good
Have a read through the tutorials here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tig-tutorial.htm
Following the exercises in there will be more useful to you than developing cup walking habits
langy
langys rodshop
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Have a look here at Josh's work (Brown dog welding) http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8789645#post8789645
Seano
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Good site Steve, thanks
carlos420uk
In the garage....
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I also started Tig welding with the intent of fabricating and welding manifolds, exhausts and other car related products, and I understand that the sort of customers that buy these products want to see "Pretty" welding.
Well after 8 months, 12 bottles of Argon and a hell of a lot of metal here is where I'm at with my "Pretty" welding attempts. This is a few scraps from the bin (Stainless pipe, mild plate) thrown together and welded with an R-tech Tig 201, straight amps (No pulse), machine set to 130 controlled via foot pedal, and using a ck9 flex head, free hand with about 6-8 ltrs/m and 10 seconds of post flow.
I used a very slight weave between the lower plate and pipe, and was dipping filler on the up stroke of the weave (Ie dabbing on the pipe more so than the flat). I welded about 1" at a time and worked my way round the pipe so as to blend in the stops and starts. That was with a ck gas saver lens with a no.8 cup.
I try to watch the puddle very closely at the front, and also behind the torch and adjust amperage and travel speed to keep the size of it consistent. I also try to make sure that on my re-starts I fully melt the "tit" left from the previous stop to the same size as the bead before I start moving and adding filler again.
As said arc length, heat control and consistent filler additions are the key things to concentrate on.
I'll just keep practicing though...
Good luck mate
Well after 8 months, 12 bottles of Argon and a hell of a lot of metal here is where I'm at with my "Pretty" welding attempts. This is a few scraps from the bin (Stainless pipe, mild plate) thrown together and welded with an R-tech Tig 201, straight amps (No pulse), machine set to 130 controlled via foot pedal, and using a ck9 flex head, free hand with about 6-8 ltrs/m and 10 seconds of post flow.
I used a very slight weave between the lower plate and pipe, and was dipping filler on the up stroke of the weave (Ie dabbing on the pipe more so than the flat). I welded about 1" at a time and worked my way round the pipe so as to blend in the stops and starts. That was with a ck gas saver lens with a no.8 cup.
I try to watch the puddle very closely at the front, and also behind the torch and adjust amperage and travel speed to keep the size of it consistent. I also try to make sure that on my re-starts I fully melt the "tit" left from the previous stop to the same size as the bead before I start moving and adding filler again.
As said arc length, heat control and consistent filler additions are the key things to concentrate on.
I'll just keep practicing though...
Good luck mate
