Welding stainless and making it look good

[Silvertig]

I also started Tig welding with the intent of fabricating and welding manifolds, exhausts and other car related products, and I understand that the sort of customers that buy these products want to see "Pretty" welding.

Well after 8 months, 12 bottles of Argon and a hell of a lot of metal here is where I'm at with my "Pretty" welding attempts. This is a few scraps from the bin (Stainless pipe, mild plate) thrown together and welded with an R-tech Tig 201, straight amps (No pulse), machine set to 130 controlled via foot pedal, and using a ck9 flex head, free hand with about 6-8 ltrs/m and 10 seconds of post flow.

I used a very slight weave between the lower plate and pipe, and was dipping filler on the up stroke of the weave (Ie dabbing on the pipe more so than the flat). I welded about 1" at a time and worked my way round the pipe so as to blend in the stops and starts. That was with a ck gas saver lens with a no.8 cup.
I try to watch the puddle very closely at the front, and also behind the torch and adjust amperage and travel speed to keep the size of it consistent. I also try to make sure that on my re-starts I fully melt the "tit" left from the previous stop to the same size as the bead before I start moving and adding filler again.

As said arc length, heat control and consistent filler additions are the key things to concentrate on.

I'll just keep practicing though...

Good luck mate

That looks pretty much perfect To me

 

[carlos420uk]

Cheers, I'm starting to get some acceptable results with SS now, but still a long way to go till it's at the standard I would like.

Check out this album for some really impressive SS welding

http://www.utahweld.com/

 

[super noob]

I'm not sure whats better, the mig like tig finish on normal steel or that with a tig

 

[langy]

I find the better the machine the better the welds look, I can lay down some very nice welds with my Parweld 200 at home but the Miller Syncrowave I use elsewhere is like using a Rolls Royce.

 

[Silvertig]

Cheers, I'm starting to get some acceptable results with SS now, but still a long way to go till it's at the standard I would like.

Check out this album for some really impressive SS welding

http://www.utahweld.com/

Yep, i agree, they look like art work

 

[carlos420uk]

I find the better the machine the better the welds look, I can lay down some very nice welds with my Parweld 200 at home but the Miller Syncrowave I use elsewhere is like using a Rolls Royce.

Interesting, what exactly is it that you find give's the better results on the Miller machine? I mean I know Miller, Lincoln, Kempii etc have all been in this game way longer than a lot of the "cheaper" alternatives that people are getting started with these days. I kind of though that a power source was a power source and that's it; but saying that I have only ever used an R-tech and an Inverter Fusion Tig to base my opinion on.

I have thought about upgrading to a Lincoln V205 and selling my R-tech a few times, but came to the conclusion I wouldn't really be getting any nicer work for doing so as the features on both machines are near enough the same. Would having a big brand machine really help produce better welds?

 

[justmental]

here is a bit on 1.5mm stainless tube.
and the settings on the machine
pulse on 1.6mm red tungsten and 1.6mm 316 filler would of been better if i had some thinner filler wire.

 

[hotrodder]

Interesting, what exactly is it that you find give's the better results on the Miller machine? I mean I know Miller, Lincoln, Kempii etc have all been in this game way longer than a lot of the "cheaper" alternatives that people are getting started with these days. I kind of though that a power source was a power source and that's it; but saying that I have only ever used an R-tech and an Inverter Fusion Tig to base my opinion on.

I have thought about upgrading to a Lincoln V205 and selling my R-tech a few times, but came to the conclusion I wouldn't really be getting any nicer work for doing so as the features on both machines are near enough the same. Would having a big brand machine really help produce better welds?

The amp in my hifi used to be one of the Technics 'new class A' models (su something or other) which, on paper, is better with regards to SNR, THD etc than the Musical Fidelity i replaced it with. It also had a bunch more features that are missing from it's replacement, tone controls etc and a higher output. The technics sounded nice but was warm to the point of bland, like a cup of instant hot chocolate in the kitchen on a rainy day. The musical fidelity has pace, rhythm, punch and provides a bigger soundstage. A cappiccino in the Italian alps on a snowboarding holiday. Listen to a high end CD player back to back with a cheaper one through a good system... the spendy ones all have transports made by the usual (cheaper) names like Sony or Philips and the chipset in the DAC is usually nothing special in comparison. It's the attention to detail that makes the difference.

A Miller Syncrowave is a transformer machine that doesn't have the bells or whistles that come with inverters- pulse when available is basic/restricted in frequency on transformers, the squarewave isn't as 'square' as it is on inverters and they don't do adjustable AC frequency. Arc quality on the other hand isn't something that can be measured/described for tech specs... stability, smoothness and things you can't put your finger on but make a noticable difference. Not a difference that fixes the DTs or erratic arc length, travel speed etc but one that makes things nicer. Personally i kinda prefer the DC arc from transformer machines like the Syncrowave or Murex/ESAB heliarc to that of a high end inverter. Couldn't say why, it just feels smoother. Switch to AC and the tables are turned though

Personally if i was replacing my v205t i'd be looking at European machines from Kemppi/Lorch/EWM etc as compared the Americans they all offer 220 or 230A in the lightweight single phase/plug in pretty much anywhere class. More amps is always useful than bells and whistles. Miller might be back on my list if/when the Dynasty 280 is available but i doubt that'll be close to comparable with the others price wise

 

[Shox Dr]

as above. You don't appreciate the finer aspects of the more respected makes, until you know how to weld even of you started on one, I'm self taught, on an early R-tech clone, while also using a Nexus*, and a parweld pocket tig, at the time I liked the Parweld. But then I couldn't weld to a good stanard. Now I can tell, but that's with a few kg's of rod through my fingers



*Nexus not a name you really hear about, very nice machines to use.

 

[langy]

Interesting, what exactly is it that you find give's the better results on the Miller machine? I mean I know Miller, Lincoln, Kempii etc have all been in this game way longer than a lot of the "cheaper" alternatives that people are getting started with these days. I kind of though that a power source was a power source and that's it; but saying that I have only ever used an R-tech and an Inverter Fusion Tig to base my opinion on.

I have thought about upgrading to a Lincoln V205 and selling my R-tech a few times, but came to the conclusion I wouldn't really be getting any nicer work for doing so as the features on both machines are near enough the same. Would having a big brand machine really help produce better welds?

It's difficult to pin any one thing down but the arc is definitely way more stable and everything is just so smooth.

This was done on my syncrowave that has few bells & whistles

 

[ross27]

A good bit of advice Langy gave me for welding stainless tube was to ditch the 1.6mm tungstens for some 1.0mm ones. Makes my weld look alot neater.


I currently have a WP17 and have considered a WP9 torch, but im unsure if i'll notice a real difference in size and weight?

 

[langy]

A good bit of advice Langy gave me for welding stainless tube was to ditch the 1.6mm tungstens for some 1.0mm ones. Makes my weld look alot neater.


I currently have a WP17 and have considered a WP9 torch, but im unsure if i'll notice a real difference in size and weight?

The only real advantage with a WP9 is the size, with a button back cap and a short tungsten they are tiny, I use it mainly for manifolds as it gets in awkward places. I use a WP17F with a short cap for most jobs.

 

[langy]

here is a bit on 1.5mm stainless tube.
and the settings on the machine
pulse on 1.6mm red tungsten and 1.6mm 316 filler would of been better if i had some thinner filler wire.

In my opinion you shouldn't need pulse for that job, just use a 1mm tungsten and 1mm rod, it will give you more control because of the thinner rod as the 1.6 rod tends to cool the puddle.
My Parweld is a very similair machine, I would use a bit more post flow

 

[justmental]

i tried with both ways but filler too big langy ( should of known that) got some 1mm rod coming later did have a spool of stainless mig wire but cant remember if i used it all up plus cant find it
will have some headers to do soon on a big block twin turbo corvette so could be ordering for some tube and bends from you

 

[langy]

i tried with both ways but filler too big langy ( should of known that) got some 1mm rod coming later did have a spool of stainless mig wire but cant remember if i used it all up plus cant find it
will have some headers to do soon on a big block twin turbo corvette so could be ordering for some tube and bends from you

You will love the 1mm rods, they are just so useful, I gave up with Mig wire years ago because its a git to get straight.

No problem on the tube & bends, I have them in stock all the time.

 

[justmental]

cheers langy let you know when we need them.
not sure if the size of the tyres will take the power.

 

[Silvertig]

In my opinion you shouldn't need pulse for that job, just use a 1mm tungsten and 1mm rod, it will give you more control because of the thinner rod as the 1.6 rod tends to cool the puddle.
My Parweld is a very similair machine, I would use a bit more post flow

HI Langy,

in your opinion when do you think one should use the pulse function? Sorry if its obvious im new to all theses functions!

also, i just ordered some stainless myself, if i new you sold it, i would of come to you. do you have a website? or somthing

 

[pc18]

ive just ordered some 1mm rods and 1mm red tungsten to have a go with.

im still using the wp26 torch that came with my tig so i think a wp17 would be more suited. Can anyone recommend me one? i will just be welding stainless tube for exhausts and hoping to have a go at making a turbo manifold next.

 

[justmental]

ive just ordered some 1mm rods and 1mm red tungsten to have a go with.

im still using the wp26 torch that came with my tig so i think a wp17 would be more suited. Can anyone recommend me one? i will just be welding stainless tube for exhausts and hoping to have a go at making a turbo manifold next.

one in the for sale section

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=39728

or one like this if you have a foot pedal just need the dinse connector to add to it.
its what i use 90% of the time not bulky and very light.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WP17F-150...939?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3350dc930b

 

[wheresmejumper]

ive just ordered some 1mm rods and 1mm red tungsten to have a go with.

im still using the wp26 torch that came with my tig so i think a wp17 would be more suited. Can anyone recommend me one? i will just be welding stainless tube for exhausts and hoping to have a go at making a turbo manifold next.

check out the CK flexloc.very compact and ideal for in and around headers