What are you machining?

[zx9]

Up date on my hammer.

View attachment 230083

Today was maths to work out the offset of the tailstock and I hit the length of taper to within 1/2 a mm and actually turning between centres with a lathe dog. The finish of taper is straight from the tool, I could have run some emery tape over it but what is the point in that, this is supposed to be a learning project that I can will look back on and judge my progress.

Finished me hammer.

A few errors were made along the way, and it was a pain working around the limited size of the Drummond's spindle and no taper attachment and...
And I have not hardened the steel tip because other than quenching in oil I have no way of doing it, that and the fact the tip is just a bit of steel I had and probably would not harden anyway.
I enjoyed making it, I had to think to resolve some problems and I have something useful to show for it.

 

[Morris]

Torqueflite clutch piston all machined, just waiting for my parting tips to turn up (forgotten I had broke the last one ages ago).

 

[Wedg1e]

I suppose that it's possible that the feed screw has been shortened sometime in the last 57 years, and I certainly don't have any recollections from my school days when I was using Boxfords.
It's always been like it, so I assumed that that's how it should be.

My VSL ejects some things, like the tailstock chuck, but not others, like a live centre. All down to the length I guess.

 

[Matchless]

Not sure this is the right place to post this but...

Is there anyone who can give me a price to machine some brake drums from solid bar, I ideally would want them finished all over except for the actual brake surface, leave a bit for final truing, I would finish that once they are mounted, basically they were originally 1/8" thick pressings, 6 1/2" internal dia, 1 1/2" deep external, no hole or say a 1" centre hole, I have done 8" drums before but it is just too much for my Student with a 240v motor, need someone with a big lathe, they were used on many different Matchless motorcycles from the 20's but with differing ways of attaching them, the one pictures is held on with a circlip as the wheels were interchangeable, and they carried a spare (Matchless H) some are bolted, some riveted, some idiot thought body filler would be ok to repair a brake drum! I would probably need six, depends a bit on price, when I did the 8" drums I got discs sawn off of suitable round bar, would need to be around 6 7/8" od stock, whatever that is in metric..... local ish would be better due to weight / postage issues, but whatever, just an idea of cost for a start,

 

[Johnnybravo]

Not sure this is the right place to post this but...

Is there anyone who can give me a price to machine some brake drums from solid bar, I ideally would want them finished all over except for the actual brake surface, leave a bit for final truing, I would finish that once they are mounted, basically they were originally 1/8" thick pressings, 6 1/2" internal dia, 1 1/2" deep external, no hole or say a 1" centre hole, I have done 8" drums before but it is just too much for my Student with a 240v motor, need someone with a big lathe, they were used on many different Matchless motorcycles from the 20's but with differing ways of attaching them, the one pictures is held on with a circlip as the wheels were interchangeable, and they carried a spare (Matchless H) some are bolted, some riveted, some idiot thought body filler would be ok to repair a brake drum! I would probably need six, depends a bit on price, when I did the 8" drums I got discs sawn off of suitable round bar, would need to be around 6 7/8" od stock, whatever that is in metric..... local ish would be better due to weight / postage issues, but whatever, just an idea of cost for a start,

View attachment 233059 View attachment 233060 View attachment 233061

What Material do you want? Spun cast iron or what grade of steel? Size wise wouldn’t be an issue.

 

[Agroshield]

As Johnnybravo says, material is important. Cast iron has to be from solid bar.

If they are steel, (possible as you say they were pressed originally) could you fabricate from a plate welded to a pipe stub and then just finish to size and shape? Maybe a thick plate so your internal and external radius blends are in non-welded material and have the weld seam 1/2" up the cylinder.

In 1/8", if you made a former, you could heat a circle and turn the corner over for 1/4" and again weld to a cylinder (look at how boiler backplates are made in the model steam community - OK, so they are copper, but same principle).

 

[Matchless]

I will post some pictures of an 8" front I fabricated, looked correct, worked ok but weighed a ton! a big flywheel in the front! still using it but! for someone with the right equipment and a big swarf bucket I don't think it would be a problem from steel blanks, and yes steel, I once used a slice from an oxygen cylinder to reband a brake drum, maybe I will reband this one to save the splined centre but would still need a few,

 

[Johnnybravo]

Are those splines parallel, or is it just the camera pulling them out of square. Could probably broach them in at the same time.

 

[Matchless]

they are not square but I could finish off by hand, only one or two would need splines and if I had to do them myself it would not be a big problem, I got a friend in Latvia to make this hub with drum a couple of years ago, would have taken me a week or three on my Student..... he says he used 40H steel?

 

[Morris]

Finished.

 

[Brad93]

Is that your lathe or your friends lathe in Latvia? Very clean.

 

[Matchless]

Is that your lathe or your friends lathe in Latvia? Very clean.

My lathe....ha,ha,ha,ha,ha mine is usually 6" under swarf, only gets cleaned when I have parted off something and cannot find it! that lathe is in Ogre Latvia, Ramoto limited, Juris just today took delivery of a brand new vixen aquablast, built in the UK,

 

[Kram]

What good is having a lathe if you cant do valve shims?

Biggest challenge is holding it. Made up a little 7.5mm bore, 2mm deep, 5mm through split collet. Took a tiny cut 0.02mm can still see the etching.

 

[Johnnybravo]

What good is having a lathe if you cant do valve shims?

Biggest challenge is holding it. Made up a little 7.5mm bore, 2mm deep, 5mm through split collet. Took a tiny cut 0.02mm can still see the etching.

As far as I am aware , valve shims are case hardened. Turn them or grind them and they wear like buggery as they are soft

 

[pressbrake1]

Subjected the ormerod slotter to cutting a 1” keyway in some semi hard material

 

[Hood]

Subjected the ormerod slotter to cutting a 1” keyway in some semi hard material View attachment 237312View attachment 237313

You cheated

 

[Woody.v8]

A cheeky clutch alignment tool for the daf

 

[pressbrake1]

Coring rig shaft in en19
Original are in 308 stainless and gall up

 

[Brad93]

Coring rig shaft in en19
Original are in 308 stainless and gall up
View attachment 238813 View attachment 238814

Nice

 

[daedalusminos]

Water pump from 1956 Vauxhall Velox E Series....

Impeller seal surface was shot plus me leaving it overnight in citric acid meant it was no longer an interference fit on the bearing shaft. Time for a repair sleeve.


0.002" interference fit inside and out...


New bearing, new seal, job done...