Tornado220M
Banned
- Messages
- 35
- Location
- UK, Midlands
Not the powered traverse that will still be on a leadscrew, but yes manual fir most is rack & pinionThe Z travel on most manual lathes is a rack and pinion, not a leadscrew.
Not the powered traverse that will still be on a leadscrew, but yes manual fir most is rack & pinionThe Z travel on most manual lathes is a rack and pinion, not a leadscrew.
More and more people are opting for multi axis "mill turn" lathes for plastic as I am sure you have found out, it really is difficult to "chip", Nitrogen spray is another method, but either is expensive and out of range for most.
Nope, power feed is a keyed shaft which drives a pinion (on mine at least), leadscrew is only for threading.Not the powered traverse that will still be on a leadscrew, but yes manual fir most is rack & pinion
And that’s why you come pre moderated….Nice I am referring to the lead screws they are simple collar nuts on a threaded shaft the wear increases 4 fold with a doubling of the load, it's fact based on data derived from manufacturers warranty and repair reports, your lathe may be ok, somebody else's will die a horrible nasty death, then of course there is the gearbox driving the lead screw which is taking as much heavier loading than design intent.
But here is the crunch, I don't give a rats a*se whether you believe me or not as I won't be paying your bill when or indeed if it all goes t*ts up
Wow you talk some rubbishYes a big lathe but most lathes are not big and most inserts are oversize for the manual type lathes, manual lathes are designed for HSS or Cobalt mix tools with a sharp edge, except brasses of course, so it will put more strain on the lead screws which are simple threads and not reciprocating ball lead screws designed for heavier loads, they simply are not designed for the blunt edge of a carbide insert.
Think it started life as a hydraulic ram so hopefully alright grade , and for the infrequent use the 4 jaw gets I am sure it would be fine. Would rather wear out the chuck key than the screw I suppose.What grade steel did you use as I need to make one.
I have made them from mild steel before. The material matters not a jot for home use, yours looks good I am making one for mine (only a 1/4" drive) and using silver steel but only as it is what I have in stock from another job.Think it started life as a hydraulic ram so hopefully alright grade , and for the infrequent use the 4 jaw gets I am sure it would be fine. Would rather wear out the chuck key than the screw I suppose.
Thanks I have some Bright Mild Steel will use that.
Behave Johnny , lolMade some En36b shavings. 8mm drill for scale. 8mm on diameter off per pass. Pity I didn’t have a stronger leadscrew or a Cnc lathe or I could take bigger cuts
Doesnt even feel it. Reckon I try 10mm next time
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No coolant in first pic and the chips dont look like they got that hot? , I normally see mine go a blue or yellow typeMade some En36b shavings. 8mm drill for scale. 8mm on the diameter taken off per pass. Pity I didn’t have a stronger leadscrew or a Cnc lathe or I could take bigger cuts
Doesnt even feel it. Reckon I try 10mm next time
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I don’t use coolant for heavy roughing. It makes too much mess. They do get hot,that dark grey colour is hotter than purple. It’s very dependant on the grade of steel.If you take Princess cuts in En36 they come out purple …No coolant in first pic and the chips dont look like they got that hot? , I normally see mine go a blue or yellow type
so it just had the bulk bashed off of it. No finesse…