- Thread starter Kram
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E T
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Made a T-nut so I can mount the QTCP that I used on the Chinese minilathe on the topslide of the South Bend.
First job for the milling support and some UNF single point threading.
The stud is a LandRover serie 2a suspension bolt 9/16 × 18 of which I turned the head down and put some thread on and the T-nut is from an old spring shackle of the same LandRover which had the 3/8" thickness I needed. Most of the steel I have is metric so this saved me milling a bit of a 10mm piece.
Love those Jacobs headstock chucks I got with the South Bend. Only 0.01mm runout and very repeatable.
First job for the milling support and some UNF single point threading.
The stud is a LandRover serie 2a suspension bolt 9/16 × 18 of which I turned the head down and put some thread on and the T-nut is from an old spring shackle of the same LandRover which had the 3/8" thickness I needed. Most of the steel I have is metric so this saved me milling a bit of a 10mm piece.
Love those Jacobs headstock chucks I got with the South Bend. Only 0.01mm runout and very repeatable.
E T
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I decided to make another stud for the QCTP because I ******** up the end of the thread a bit on the first one when the tip of the insert broke. Still don't know why that happened. Second one turned out great but forgot to take picture.
After that I made a nice shiny knob for the handle. I bought this QCTP used and the first owner had put a ugly wooden knob on.
The look of that knob has been annoying me for over a year and I finally did something about it.
After that I made a nice shiny knob for the handle. I bought this QCTP used and the first owner had put a ugly wooden knob on.
The look of that knob has been annoying me for over a year and I finally did something about it.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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I was needing to make an unobtainable transducer housing for a boat so got some 60mm thick HDPE as it was half the price of Nylon.
I had never machined it before so wasn't sure how it would turn out but I was pleasantly surprised.
I had never machined it before so wasn't sure how it would turn out but I was pleasantly surprised.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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Superb job there Mr Hood
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Not knocking it but could that not have been printed?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Likely wouldn't be as impact resistant, they can take a battering.
It is 250mm long, 112mm wide and 60mm deep so not even sure how long it would take to print.
Johnnybravo
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HDPE is nice to machine. I made a load of production line parts out of it for a bottling plant a couple of years back. Can get it in quite a few colours too, which is handy for quick product recognition when you have ten very similar bottle options on a production line!
I made a tool height gauge the other week. The top half screws into the bottom on an m10 fine thread and locks with set screws, a brass topper makes it a little easier to use.
It’s pretty heavy, i set a magnet in the bottom to help it stand on the bed flats.
So far works a treat.
It’s pretty heavy, i set a magnet in the bottom to help it stand on the bed flats.
So far works a treat.
Johnnybravo
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I stripped the driven tooling turret off the big cnc lathe I am recommissioning. Pretty much all scrap inside due to coolant ingress. Found a good set of gears but the shafts aren’t great where the oil seal run.
Hardchrome from the factory. Not a problem to turn down prior to re application of hardchrome and regrinding to finished size . Doing it my self, after getting them hardchromed ,saves me an outlay of over £2000 on the 25 parts that need attention.
Hardchrome from the factory. Not a problem to turn down prior to re application of hardchrome and regrinding to finished size . Doing it my self, after getting them hardchromed ,saves me an outlay of over £2000 on the 25 parts that need attention.
That's rather a complicated and expensive to produce drive set up @Johnnybravo for each tool to have drive. On my turret the selected tool has a drive dog pushed into it from the non-rotating part of the turret so only one drive needed and no complicated gear train. What are the advantages of that set up?
Johnnybravo
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You can run x tools, z tools and standard turning tools in the same pocket. And cycle all through the rear mounted toolchanger. So that pot is either rotating , not rotating or not rotating but with power being applied to the tool from a drive higher up.
It then automatically diverts the coolant to the correct port depending on what tool type is in the pocket. That’s were it went wrong, lack of maintenance resulted in worn o rings and seals and pumping the turret full of coolant.
It also has air blast to clear the pockets on a toolchange and to apply a positive pressure to the inside of the turret to keep coolant out. Very cleverly made by the Japanese… probably why the company went bust as completely over engineered. Also probably why , having sorted the problem that stopped it running 12 years ago, that no mechanical, pneumatic or hydraulic parts were needed to get it running again.
The issues with the turret I am experiencing could have been avoided by proper maintenance
It then automatically diverts the coolant to the correct port depending on what tool type is in the pocket. That’s were it went wrong, lack of maintenance resulted in worn o rings and seals and pumping the turret full of coolant.
It also has air blast to clear the pockets on a toolchange and to apply a positive pressure to the inside of the turret to keep coolant out. Very cleverly made by the Japanese… probably why the company went bust as completely over engineered. Also probably why , having sorted the problem that stopped it running 12 years ago, that no mechanical, pneumatic or hydraulic parts were needed to get it running again.
The issues with the turret I am experiencing could have been avoided by proper maintenance
E T
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The new cross slide nut I bought a while ago for the South Bend is made of brass.
Bronze is a better choice according to the internet, so as a little project I decided to try and make one.
Bought a piece of bronze RG7 and a 7/16x10 left hand acme tap. Quite happy with the result.
Bronze is a better choice according to the internet, so as a little project I decided to try and make one.
Bought a piece of bronze RG7 and a 7/16x10 left hand acme tap. Quite happy with the result.
paradipiro
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Last edited:
E T
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Made a dail indicator holder for the cross slide today. Saves me mucking about with the magnetic DI stands.
The handwheel dials on the South Bend are very small and hard to read at my age plus I changed the original 7/16"×2.5mm metric cross slide spindle for a 7/16"×10 TPI imperial one and the dial is metric so there is a tiny bit of difference.
Now I could have used an bit of angle iron, but where's the fun in that. This one is made from a bit of a 1986 LandRover 110 half shaft.
Next job will be to make one for the carriage.
The handwheel dials on the South Bend are very small and hard to read at my age plus I changed the original 7/16"×2.5mm metric cross slide spindle for a 7/16"×10 TPI imperial one and the dial is metric so there is a tiny bit of difference.
Now I could have used an bit of angle iron, but where's the fun in that. This one is made from a bit of a 1986 LandRover 110 half shaft.
Next job will be to make one for the carriage.
dobbslc
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I've been given a pair of VW T25 pick up hubs to turn down for a disc conversion on my friends van.
They took a bit of setting up to get the clearance needed in the Southbend.
They needed about 20mm off the outer diameter, the chips were hot, I took a few burns
I then pressed the old studs out and replaced with the new longer ones. Yes I know I should have taken the studs out before I put them in the lathe
Job done, time for a beer!
They took a bit of setting up to get the clearance needed in the Southbend.
They needed about 20mm off the outer diameter, the chips were hot, I took a few burns
I then pressed the old studs out and replaced with the new longer ones. Yes I know I should have taken the studs out before I put them in the lathe
Job done, time for a beer!
