Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- Thread starter Kram
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Hood
I am obsessed.
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Nice but limited in use if I am seeing it correctly as it looks to be on the Z axis so you would only get in as far as the back of the C shape and couldn't knurl behind a larger diameter.
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
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I'd think the same - and I like knurling big stuff I'll need to grip with oily hands like slide hammer weights, press tools and the like.
Erie Fred
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That's why I have bought a few of them in larger sizes when i can find them.
FWIW, I did put the larger one into the aloris toolpost holder on the cross slide, the facing position, with the stem radial to the lathe centerline, and was able to traverse all along a shaft that way.
They are very versatile that way.
Erie Fred
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I have run both styles, even with the "non cut" style (proper name escapes me)
You end up making some little chips/swarf, especially in softer metals.
That's why I always recommend a low viscosity coolant, and flood it on there.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Yes you will get dust but they really form the knurl by deformation rather than cut it. I always flood with soluble anyway.
I would like a cut knurl for things like above but too spendy for the small amount I do.
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
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"Non-cut" pressure knurlers have one great advantage - when you overshoot on a diameter you can run the knurler along and get a fit good enough for loctite...
(yes, I know, it's a bodge but who hasn't done it?)
(yes, I know, it's a bodge but who hasn't done it?)
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Had some time today so decided to make one with the grooves like originally intended, I will see which is best.
Had a lump of rough cut rectangular alu to use.
Put it in the mill and milled a round on the end so I could then chuck in the lathe and turen down to the 33mm and 22mm diameters I needed.
Then into the mill.
First op done
Turned 180 degrees for second op
then 90 for the last op in the mill.
Back into the lathe to cut the grooves and bore the 8mm hole in the end for the spring.
Parted off ready for anodising.
Andodised and will etch my logo with the laser when I get home.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
I often have to do that on cutlass bearings when the tube is oversize due to previous ones spinning or neglect.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,315
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Getting a proper power supply made a big difference.
MattF
Forum Supporter
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Little number I finished very recently, bit of valve seat machining (four in total, and hopefully the last time too!). Complete excavate, weld and machine to profile. I didn’t do the welding, but the material is in the same family as stellite. Horrible to machine, incredibly hard, impact resistant and work hardens for fun. Design is with a radius of 180mm in this example, the profile gauge showing it matches perfectly.
Kudos to the welder here, no imperfections, porosity or any issues with the ties into parent metal, considering it’s about 500mm dia and there’s a 150 degree preheat on the chest while laying metal, hardly favourable conditions!
Photos towards the end showing the newly machined area a little more clearly, which has had a little polish to improve surface finish.
All manual machining with profile done somewhat by hand. One of the more difficult jobs but very satisfying seeing the end result, and preceding blue check to confirm 100% contact with the head.
Kudos to the welder here, no imperfections, porosity or any issues with the ties into parent metal, considering it’s about 500mm dia and there’s a 150 degree preheat on the chest while laying metal, hardly favourable conditions!
Photos towards the end showing the newly machined area a little more clearly, which has had a little polish to improve surface finish.
All manual machining with profile done somewhat by hand. One of the more difficult jobs but very satisfying seeing the end result, and preceding blue check to confirm 100% contact with the head.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,315
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Machined another 6 lobster gauges today then brought them home to laser etch my logo.
Placed them on the table and used the camera to place the logos.
All etched
Also did a panel for the pendant for the plasma. Old one was engraved quite about 10 years ago on my mill from some mirror faced plastic but it was peeling and looking scabby.
I machined one from 1.5mm stainless, gave it a quick polish and then laser etched it.
And fitted.
Placed them on the table and used the camera to place the logos.
All etched
Also did a panel for the pendant for the plasma. Old one was engraved quite about 10 years ago on my mill from some mirror faced plastic but it was peeling and looking scabby.
I machined one from 1.5mm stainless, gave it a quick polish and then laser etched it.
And fitted.
I did some knurling this evening. 
Be kind. I don't have a big boy's lathe and my knurling tool is a cheap Ebay effort.
I bought this Tauco drill a little while back and previously did some work to get it running better with a switch install and a general tidy up. However, it was missing the depth stop nuts. They are a strange thread, 1/2" 16tpi UN.
It took me two goes. The knurling on the first set was better but the thread was a sloppy fit. I tap drilled it 7/16" on the first attempt and later tried 11mm on the second go which was much tighter.
I did some nervous parting off which turned out OK. I just eyeballed the width when parting off which is why one is slightly taller than the other. All I was concerned about really was a tight fit on the threads and that they butted up against each other nicely. I've never used a depth stop on a drill before. I guess blind holes aren't my thing. It is nice to complete the drill refurb though.
These pics are from my first attempt, but it's all the same really.
Be kind. I don't have a big boy's lathe and my knurling tool is a cheap Ebay effort.
I bought this Tauco drill a little while back and previously did some work to get it running better with a switch install and a general tidy up. However, it was missing the depth stop nuts. They are a strange thread, 1/2" 16tpi UN.
It took me two goes. The knurling on the first set was better but the thread was a sloppy fit. I tap drilled it 7/16" on the first attempt and later tried 11mm on the second go which was much tighter.
I did some nervous parting off which turned out OK. I just eyeballed the width when parting off which is why one is slightly taller than the other. All I was concerned about really was a tight fit on the threads and that they butted up against each other nicely. I've never used a depth stop on a drill before. I guess blind holes aren't my thing. It is nice to complete the drill refurb though.
These pics are from my first attempt, but it's all the same really.
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I think you're right. I did consider it but the edges weren't sharp due to the knurling. My main concern was that it is hard work getting something so small to sit square in the lathe jaws and I didn't fancy starting attempt number three if I messed up. I might have to consider my order of operations next time to squeeze it in halfway through parting.
