Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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Thread a piece of bar and clamp that in your chuck. You can then run a nut up to the face of the jaws and bevel.
- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
A tip I got from blondihacks on you tube. ...
To get small parts square in a 3 jaw. Put a Jacob's chuck in the tailstock with jaws closed. Put part in 3 jaw. Keep lathe 3 jaw slightly loose. Put the tailstock chuck up against the job/piece. Put your fingers behind the workpiece in the 3 jaw then slide the piece against the jaws of the Jacobs whilst tightening the 3 jaw. Quick and accurate to within a thou for me.
Cheers Striker. That's a neat trick. I'll bear that one in mind. My only other issue was I was reluctant to put it back in the chuck jaws and end up with squashed knurls. I suppose we don't need a really tight grip just to chamfer the edges but it's another potential pitfall to navigate.
As usual, I'd do it again differently with what I've learned since. I just need to remember these lessons for next time.
Thanks for all the comments everyone.
As usual, I'd do it again differently with what I've learned since. I just need to remember these lessons for next time.
Thanks for all the comments everyone.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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I tried, in vain, to find a replacement chuck 1/16"-1/2" with a 3/8" unf male thread. Up to 3/8" was fine, above that they're all 1/2" UNF female, which seems to be the standard for SDS.
I made this.
It spins nice and true, unlike the MKI.
I made this.
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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^^ If you mill a couple of flats on it, it'd be easier to remove in future? 
You're going to have to put new knobs on to go with all that bling.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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paradipiro
Member
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Mt2 adapter for my Pittler No. 2 automatic thread cutter head:
The morse pin is made from C45, the big chunk is S355 (thats what I got in hand) to prevent cold cracking and hardening, preheated the assembly before welding above 250°C. The welding electrode was 7018 DCEP.
The morse pin is made from C45, the big chunk is S355 (thats what I got in hand) to prevent cold cracking and hardening, preheated the assembly before welding above 250°C. The welding electrode was 7018 DCEP.
Couple of questions what software are you using and what do you mean by using the camera to place the logos?
Oh and what laser are you using?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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I am using Lightburn software but the software that comes with the laser is quite good although not capable of using a camera.
The laser is an X-Tool D1 Pro 10w, would have liked a 20W or even better the 40W but just too expensive for me at the moment.
Regarding the camera, it hooks up to the computer via USB and you can then calibrate it in lightburn. Once calibrated you can press Update Overlay button and you see an image of the laser bed. If you have an object/material placed on the bed then you can move your logo/picture/whatever onto the material then away you go.
I found the camera was out, accuracy wise in placement, the thicker the material you had on the bed as it had been calibrated to the bed.
I saw two options.
1. Calibrate the camera at different heights and save each as a profile you could load depending on the material height.
2. Make the bed move up/down so that the camera to material distance was always the same.
I chose option 2 which also means I never have to slide the laser head to get the focal length correct as I just raise or lower the bed.
The laser is an X-Tool D1 Pro 10w, would have liked a 20W or even better the 40W but just too expensive for me at the moment.
Regarding the camera, it hooks up to the computer via USB and you can then calibrate it in lightburn. Once calibrated you can press Update Overlay button and you see an image of the laser bed. If you have an object/material placed on the bed then you can move your logo/picture/whatever onto the material then away you go.
I found the camera was out, accuracy wise in placement, the thicker the material you had on the bed as it had been calibrated to the bed.
I saw two options.
1. Calibrate the camera at different heights and save each as a profile you could load depending on the material height.
2. Make the bed move up/down so that the camera to material distance was always the same.
I chose option 2 which also means I never have to slide the laser head to get the focal length correct as I just raise or lower the bed.
Awesome. I like that you have a diode as many you tubers have upgraded to Fibre and are not as relevant.
Where did you get the camera by the way?
I have an Atomstack A5 M50 Pro which I am told is 5 watt but they do so many and this was their best laser when it was purchased.
I am also wondering if we could have a laser section on the Forum much like we did with 3d printing
Hood
I am obsessed.
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The camera is the Atomstack one but I made my own gantry for it as the adjustable one it came with was too easily knocked putting the camera out of calibration and thus having to go through the laborious calibration process again.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I have a vevor 10w job I got last year. It has no shield around the laser so I have not used it at all after the initial setup.Awesome. I like that you have a diode as many you tubers have upgraded to Fibre and are not as relevant.
Where did you get the camera by the way?
I have an Atomstack A5 M50 Pro which I am told is 5 watt but they do so many and this was their best laser when it was purchased.
I am also wondering if we could have a laser section on the Forum much like we did with 3d printing
I agree a section or dedicated thread would be good as I may even use it if there is incentive!
Gantry do you have a photo handy?
Johnnybravo
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Photos of a couple of interesting prototyping jobs I’ve done recently
Sorry, covered by Non disclosure agreements .. but the 12 0.6mm holes in each part are nearly visible in the photos
Sorry, covered by Non disclosure agreements .. but the 12 0.6mm holes in each part are nearly visible in the photos 