- Thread starter Kram
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Hood
I am obsessed.
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Too expensive to buy I would think. If I thought there was a market then making a mould and casting would be the better option but I don't think there would be enough of a market as it would only be suitable for these particular bars.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Oh and they are not hero marks, more like IDIOT marks 
Right side was when I was taking off the Sky Lift and forgot to lock the casters and it just slid off onto the road and the left side was when I stupidly tried to turn on the steep hill knowing the road was only wide enough to get across the road and not fully turned, I forgot I am a short **** and the bike weighs a lot
Right side was when I was taking off the Sky Lift and forgot to lock the casters and it just slid off onto the road and the left side was when I stupidly tried to turn on the steep hill knowing the road was only wide enough to get across the road and not fully turned, I forgot I am a short **** and the bike weighs a lot
oldbikedavey
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Just running expanding reamers down new aluminium bronze valve guides on the B.33 head.
Quite pleased with the results, but will need to get some more bar stock of the same... which is unlikely to be particularly cheap....
Quite pleased with the results, but will need to get some more bar stock of the same... which is unlikely to be particularly cheap....
Well of course I wouldn't say they were idiot marks would I!Oh and they are not hero marks, more like IDIOT marks
Right side was when I was taking off the Sky Lift and forgot to lock the casters and it just slid off onto the road and the left side was when I stupidly tried to turn on the steep hill knowing the road was only wide enough to get across the road and not fully turned, I forgot I am a short **** and the bike weighs a lot
Some locomotive bits in progress yesterday and today. Starting with this:
Then some turning and screw-cuting later. Thread is 2.75" x 11tpi whit form. As a lot of the loco boiler fittings use 11tpi I have full-form inserts for threading.
And a bit of milling.
And finally a bit more turning.
This is the guide and cap nut for an injector overflow valve as used on GWR and BR Standard live steam injectors.
Yellow arrow shows where it goes, but it's not for this loco.
Then some turning and screw-cuting later. Thread is 2.75" x 11tpi whit form. As a lot of the loco boiler fittings use 11tpi I have full-form inserts for threading.
And a bit of milling.
And finally a bit more turning.
This is the guide and cap nut for an injector overflow valve as used on GWR and BR Standard live steam injectors.
Yellow arrow shows where it goes, but it's not for this loco.
oldbikedavey
Member
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- London, England
Cranking up to diamond file a valve guide top-rebating cutter from HSS round stock, using my Limatic C.12 die - filer.
Or, I might be sensible and file the thing out of some silver steel stock, then harden....
Or, I might be sensible and file the thing out of some silver steel stock, then harden....
E T
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- 506
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- Netherlands
I was looking at collet blocks lately. I thought it would be handy to have now I have a mill.
I know the Chinese ones are cheap, but because I laid my hands on 2.5m of 60mm hex very cheap I decided to do some tinkering myself.
I cleaned up the sides of the hex with a flycutter and turned down and threaded one end for 1.5" x 8tpi.
My South Bend 9" came with two Jacobs headstock chucks, so my idea was to use those for the work holding.
The 60 degree threading inserts I have are not fit for an 8tpi thread so with a quick grind I made a hss threading tool.
Next job will be to drill the centre and bore it out so I can fit long stock in it.
I will have a lot of stickout with a Jacobs chuck on there, but with a machinist jack under the part it should be rigid enough I guess.
The threads turned out near perfect. No play in the chuck whatsoever.
I know the Chinese ones are cheap, but because I laid my hands on 2.5m of 60mm hex very cheap I decided to do some tinkering myself.
I cleaned up the sides of the hex with a flycutter and turned down and threaded one end for 1.5" x 8tpi.
My South Bend 9" came with two Jacobs headstock chucks, so my idea was to use those for the work holding.
The 60 degree threading inserts I have are not fit for an 8tpi thread so with a quick grind I made a hss threading tool.
Next job will be to drill the centre and bore it out so I can fit long stock in it.
I will have a lot of stickout with a Jacobs chuck on there, but with a machinist jack under the part it should be rigid enough I guess.
The threads turned out near perfect. No play in the chuck whatsoever.
oldbikedavey
Member
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Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,364
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
A small part for the Push-pull torch, first part is 3mm OD, thread is M4, last section 4.2mm and it is 19mm long with a 1.6mm hole through the centre. Just cut the slot in the end with a hacksaw as it wasn't worth milling it, seems to be working fine so far and should be fine as PEEK has quite a good tolerance to high temps.
The thread is dirty as it had been tried in before I took the pic.
The thread is dirty as it had been tried in before I took the pic.
Moose McAlpine
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Two tools into one for a specific job.
Bit of machining, welding and a bit more machining.
skotl
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Today I machined.... a neighour's acrylic sink cover!
Apparently he's had it for years and loves it, then got a new sink with a plug in a different location and wanted a 25mm dia, 11mm recess cut into it.
I was going to use a router on it but he seemed very keen to ensure it looked as good as new (even though it's 30 years old) so I ended up mounting a router bit in my mill, sellotaping the cover to my rotary table, and cutting it in there.
Started out making a chipboard template to make sure I understood what to adjust:
Live centre from the lathe to zero in the table first, then the hole centre
OK... this is working...
Repeat with the actual piece
And done! (the top hole was already there, mine is the bottom one)
In hindsight, I vastly overthought this and could have done it in 1/5th the time with the router. But it's a very accurate cut, I got to use the rotary table, the guy is extremely pleased and I'll be be more confident of using the rotary table in the future!
Apparently he's had it for years and loves it, then got a new sink with a plug in a different location and wanted a 25mm dia, 11mm recess cut into it.
I was going to use a router on it but he seemed very keen to ensure it looked as good as new (even though it's 30 years old) so I ended up mounting a router bit in my mill, sellotaping the cover to my rotary table, and cutting it in there.
Started out making a chipboard template to make sure I understood what to adjust:
Live centre from the lathe to zero in the table first, then the hole centre
OK... this is working...
Repeat with the actual piece
And done! (the top hole was already there, mine is the bottom one)
In hindsight, I vastly overthought this and could have done it in 1/5th the time with the router. But it's a very accurate cut, I got to use the rotary table, the guy is extremely pleased and I'll be be more confident of using the rotary table in the future!
Johnnybravo
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Finished that tool I started making last week. . It’s for some studs I need that you cannot get the right material in a suitable diameter. So I turn 16mm down to 13.5mm and then send them out for centreless grinding to get them to 13mm. They are 400mm long.
Johnnybravo
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Got an old lathe spindle for the D1-6 camlock spindlenose Cut the shaft off and ground the back flat. Then machined through the case hardening ( only fun for about a millimetre then it’s soft again. ) Drilled to suit the A1-6 spindle nose adapter that fits my Cnc lathe. So I can now use a D1-6 faceplate and four jaw chuck on my Cnc lathe.
Johnnybravo
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E T
Member
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- Netherlands
You've noticed that, but you didn't notice the base on the right one being slightly bigger?The chamfers not being the same on those two would do my head in
FYI I never wear matching socks.
