What are you machining?

[Brad93]

I have seen taperlock bushes sit proud in the past, and I always just put it down to tolerance issues.
They still work, so I've never really looked into why.

However, this did remind me of a post by the late John Stevenson, which you might like if you find yourself needing to regularly machine hubs for taper locks - https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/51004-tapered-bushing

Yes I'd already found Johns post while trying to see if i could find the hole locations, then i found this fenner document shared on this forum by https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/members/spark-plug.18080/

 

[Munkul]

Something i've not had to do before.

Machine a worn out flange for a taper lock. 1108-28.

Went fine, if working to the fenner document, diameter at the large end should be 38.2-38.28mm.

I made this 38.2 but it still sits somewhat proud of the flange.

Won't matter for this application however but something i'd like to clarify for future use.

View attachment 480726 View attachment 480728 View attachment 480729

It depends on the shaft diameter tolerance as well...

 

[Brad93]

It depends on the shaft diameter tolerance as well...

Shaft was actually slightly undersize.

I've set the machine back up today and it's working perfectly so we will see how it works long term, only five minutes round the corner so nice and easy to fix if it doesn't work out

 

[Hood]

Seeing as how I got the crash bars re-powder coated I thought I should make new sliders for them.

 

[Johnnybravo]

Started making the patterns for the gun aiming gearboxes for the Hetzer tank restorations.

 

[E T]

Finished the ball bearing fingers for the steady today.
I ******** one up a bit when the endmill grabbed while rounding of the end where the bearing sits, but it doesn't effect the fit in the steady.
I do loose a bit of the capacity of the steady, but for the maximum size it can hold I still have the original cast iron fingers.
Those cast iron fingers work very good and there's less chance of swarf getting between fingers and workpiece, but with the bearings there's no friction and the workpiece doesn't heat up. I let it run for a good bit and all seems well.

 

[Brad93]

Finished the ball bearing fingers for the steady today.
I ******** one up a bit when the endmill grabbed while rounding of the end where the bearing sits, but it doesn't effect the fit in the steady.
I do loose a bit of the capacity of the steady, but for the maximum size it can hold I still have the original cast iron fingers.
Those cast iron fingers work very good and there's less chance of swarf getting between fingers and workpiece, but with the bearings there's no friction and the workpiece doesn't heat up. I let it run for a good bit and all seems well.View attachment 481022View attachment 481023View attachment 481024

for 90% of stuff rollers works well

sometimes you can't beat the dampening effect of a solid finger though. Be it cast, bronze or plastic.

Just gotta watch it doesn't marr/burnish the finish on parts though.

 

[E T]

Next little project: Convert this old minilathe tailstock to a tailstock for the rotary table.

Some preliminary rough measurements how much I have to mill of the base to get it on centre height.

 

[E T]

That turned out quite alright .
Milled just over 4mm of the base and made a T- nut so I could use the original clamping lever to clamp it to the mill table.
It's still a smidge high, but with a 0.15mm feeler gauge under the rear of the base the test bar was dead on parallel.

 

[Johnnybravo]

Finished surface modelling the cores for the Hetzer gearboxes today. Loads of machining next week

 

[galooph]

I've got a Sieg C6 lathe, and the compound on it is not particularly rigid! I'd never had success parting off, and had often thought about making a Gibraltar style toolpost to improve the rigidity. I'd spotted that Arc Euro stocked a milling table that looked like it might save some work, and after some measuring, I thought that I could get away with a larger wedge toolpost on top.

I was pleasantly surprised at how well the counterbore worked in my drill press! I went with shallow head socket screws to minimise the depth I had to cut.

As a first test, I tried parting off some aluminium bar, and successfully cut some nice thin slivers - progress!

The old compound can soon be swapped back, if I ever need it.

 

[Kram]

I have been tidying the shed and now have access to lathe.
We have a grabber thing, pole with handle one end and jaws on the other, it needed a repair, so I set about making a new tube holder for it out of 22mm aluminium.
It has a 1/2" slot for the trigger handle. It was a challlenge to work out how to hold it. Using a ER40 chuck in a MT2 adaptor, in a 25mm bore toolpost holder, sticks out a little bit!
I didnt have enough cross slide travel so had to move the toolpost right on the edge with a G clamp to help secure it.

Went better than expected !

 

[Cheesie]

I had the slots cut out yo machine down to size so far everything is coming together ok