What I broke today...........

[rtcosic]

But we have low alcohol AND alcohol free. Low alcohol is I believe defined as below 2% proof and kids can buy it, or used to when I was a kid, whereas alcohol free by definition doesn't have any. Quite important for drivers!I was actually just jokingly replying to the point about vacuums, which is really about grammar rather than physics since you can't be partially absent, you're either here or you aren't as a rule!

The Marketers and Advertising Industry Lobby got to the Politicians and distort the language and the Law yet again.
Alcohol Free beer ISN'T zero alcohol.

What’s the difference between low alcohol and alcohol-free drinks? | Drinkaware

When it comes to product labelling, alcohol-free, low alcohol and non-alcoholic all mean different things.

www.drinkaware.co.uk

 

[julianthegypsy]

The Marketers and Advertising Industry Lobby got to the Politicians and distort the language and the Law yet again.
Alcohol Free beer ISN'T zero alcohol.

What’s the difference between low alcohol and alcohol-free drinks? | Drinkaware

When it comes to product labelling, alcohol-free, low alcohol and non-alcoholic all mean different things.

www.drinkaware.co.uk

Typical!

 

[Onoff]

The moral is likely "Don't attempt to apply silicone after 3 pints"

The brick lights had a slight gap behind. No problem I thought, some black silicone and take the excess off with my magic Fugi Cramer tool.

I'd gunned it in, in the back of my mind something was wrong and as I was tooling it off I suddenly thought "**** tape!" As I realised my mistake I thought "No problem, my lad can print a bezel like round the photocells to hide my mistake".

The second one I did, passable:

Still light escaping from the underside so I still might silicone that:

The first one, oh dear!

I'm thinking to try silicone eater. The bricks have all been sprayed with concrete sealer - maybe that'll help, the silicone adhering to that rather than the brick?

As for printing a bezel it suddenly dawned the printer bed isn't big enough!

 

[Arc Tourist]

Haven't broken anything in ages, but today I'm gutted. I was making up a Whitworth threaded draw bar for a milling cutter holder, and my old school 55* threading tool tip broke off, not only that, it included splitting off a additional length of over 20mm.

 

[DAPPH]

The moral is likely "Don't attempt to apply silicone after 3 pints"

The brick lights had a slight gap behind. No problem I thought, some black silicone and take the excess off with my magic Fugi Cramer tool.

I'd gunned it in, in the back of my mind something was wrong and as I was tooling it off I suddenly thought "**** tape!" As I realised my mistake I thought "No problem, my lad can print a bezel like round the photocells to hide my mistake".

The second one I did, passable:

View attachment 460440

Still light escaping from the underside so I still might silicone that:

View attachment 460438

The first one, oh dear!

View attachment 460439

I'm thinking to try silicone eater. The bricks have all been sprayed with concrete sealer - maybe that'll help, the silicone adhering to that rather than the brick?

As for printing a bezel it suddenly dawned the printer bed isn't big enough!

Laid on the wetroom floor sorting out Mr Nearly disasters ubder the hand basin where he tried run ing the waste up hill in an over sized hole , I mortared it up with bits of common bricks & birck of brickI then a wek later recut the hole inthe right position set it all up everything retightened up . I used a new tube of white silicone to fully seal the pipe to the wall , Laid the gun to my left and had a tremendous battle trying to get the hooks for the half stand into the half stand porcelain as I don't have a lot of strength or movement in my left shoulder joint . I happened to roll to my left and rolled on the a very large dollop of white silicone that had oozed out of the partially released applicator gun . Didn't realise it till I'd finished the job, cleaned up and Alison said has there been a seagull in the wetroom . Some of it scraped off and the rest dried in so after discovening a silicone remover ( B&Q) I rebber s on=me in5the mess , it's take a whole tube left to destroy the silicone over several washes over almost a year , I think that you could do a trial on a clean brick ( not inthe brick work ) let it cure then try a remover and see if it will power wash off after a few treatments of being worked in with a thin wooden stick .

 

[offthames]

Not strictly broken. but alas worth posting here
Yesterday I was sandblasting outside for a good while. Finished and came into the workshop to find a mist of oil. Compressor vent port had blown out and a fine mist of oil came out. Covered the project car. Been up all night and gone through 5L of panel wipe and 20 microfibres. More arriving Monday. I think it's going to be okay but not ideal. You couldn't make it up!
Thankfully the car has no filler on etc and just epoxy so it seems to wipe up fine. But I'm going to need to go over it many many times.

 

[offthames]

I've run out of panel wipe now but I think it's clean. Going to go over again a few more times once more panel wipe is here. Gone over it with a uv light to spot any droplets I've missed
Anyone have any further tips/advice on how to get this thing spotless again?

 

[Turbo]

I've run out of panel wipe now but I think it's clean. Going to go over again a few more times once more panel wipe is here. Gone over it with a uv light to spot any droplets I've missed
Anyone have any further tips/advice on how to get this thing spotless again?

That's why all spray shops have the compressor in a separate room.
Any way you can box it off to stop this happening again?

 

[offthames]

That's why all spray shops have the compressor in a separate room.
Any way you can box it off to stop this happening again?

Yeah can box it off and also have made a bracket so the crankcase vent valve physically can't blow out.
More concerned at the moment with the contamination on the car since obviously more layers of paint to go on it and can't afford to have issues down the road. I think I just need to clean it over and over again. Maybe another 5 more times. I've gone over the entire car about 7 times at the moment.

 

[Turbo]

Yeah can box it off and also have made a bracket so the crankcase vent valve physically can't blow out.
More concerned at the moment with the contamination on the car since obviously more layers of paint to go on it and can't afford to have issues down the road. I think I just need to clean it over and over again. Maybe another 5 more times. I've gone over the entire car about 7 times at the moment.

At least you used epoxy primer. Had it been filler primer the oil would have soaked into it and impossible to remove.
Might be an idea to give it another coat of epoxy just in case there's any oil left.

 

[offthames]

At least you used epoxy primer. Had it been filler primer the oil would have soaked into it and impossible to remove.
Might be an idea to give it another coat of epoxy just in case there's any oil left.

I've still yet to sand any of the epoxy. I've got to sand the inside completely with 400 grit as epoxying the entire car in the garage caused a grainy texture on the top surface of the epoxy in the passenger compartment (due to overspray). I'll go ahead and do more cleaning then get to sanding the inside, take stock from there and decide if i want to put another coat on the inside
I'm not concerned with the exterior as they are all flat surfaces and very easy to clean thoroughly, it's the inside I'm concerned about due to all the small nooks and hard to reach places.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Anyone have any further tips/advice on how to get this thing spotless again?

I use a brake cleaner sprayer to wash a panel or part, starting at the top and working down to remove any solvent susceptible material.

 

[offthames]

Using UV to find any trace amounts of oil left

 

[Onoff]

Using UV to find any trace amounts of oil left

View attachment 465667

Like an episode of SVU!

 

[DennisCA]

Broke my Makita DHP458Z drill. The whole front fell off and into pieces basically. The metal rim that holds the drill together failed last year and I've been making do with it duct tape, but it still wanted to "cam out" easily because nothing held the chuck assembly back in anymore. I'm also on the 2nd chuck for it. But I guess it's a goner now. Lasted approx. 10 years and a month.

I need a new Makita 18V drill now...

 

[qwakers]

Powertoolspares.co.uk. rebuild it.

 

[DennisCA]

Seems like just the new part (gear assembly, but I would like a new chuck too) would cost more than buying a new drill, though the replacement drill I am looking at does not have the hammer function, but I have a corded, made in england Black & Decker for that.

 

[qwakers]

If you buy one with a plastic chuck beware it's the DIY version with all plastic gears and internals. Apples and oranges.

 

[DAPPH]

Seems like just the new part (gear assembly, but I would like a new chuck too) would cost more than buying a new drill, though the replacement drill I am looking at does not have the hammer function, but I have a corded, made in england Black & Decker for that.

When I ordered a new battery drill from TEMU I also ordered a new keyed chuck and five left hand screws incase I bust the locking screw inside the chuck . Heated up an old but useable phillips screw driver and stuck it in the screw head inside the chuck for 20 seconds or so to kill the locking compound on the threads then it unscrewed clockwise with ease

 

[sardine]

I cleaned and repaired a microwave that was dumped in a skip, came out spotless and in full working order, a job well done.

Then it fell off the bench and broke the door off.

Back on the repair list.