- Thread starter Jaffman
- Start date
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,393
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Parweld XTT all the way in my opinion. They are advertised at just over £900 and you may be able to get one a bit cheaper if you try. They don't come with a pedal but to me a pedal is a waste of time as I am never sitting down and very rarely even standing at a bench. If a pedal was a must then you could probably get a nice one for what you saved, in fact probably less.
The Parwelds come with the Progrip torch with 3 buttons, I love them, some don't like the Euro style torches but I believe @Richard. is a massive fan of them
The Parwelds come with the Progrip torch with 3 buttons, I love them, some don't like the Euro style torches but I believe @Richard. is a massive fan of them
anto44
Member
- Messages
- 1,844
- Location
- ireland
Another very happy parweld xtt owner here. I have mine just over 2 and a half years and never had any problems with it. I've never tried any of the rtechs so can't really say how they compare.
The pedal issue hood mentioned is that you cannot adjust the max current on the welder itself you have to set it on a dial on the side of the pedal, personally I've never found this to be a problem myself.
The pedal issue hood mentioned is that you cannot adjust the max current on the welder itself you have to set it on a dial on the side of the pedal, personally I've never found this to be a problem myself.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,630
- Location
- Cumbria
I know it's just an opinion, but starting out using a pedal is a bit of a crutch and really not all that advantageous in a lot of real-world scenarios. The Americans seem to think it's the only way, but it's really not.
It's only an advantage on extremely thin steel, or aluminium.... where you can get away with a machine that either feathers in 2T on the button (i.e. on/off the button to ramp the current to how you want it) or, like Hood says, a tap between main and secondary current... so you start with a good heat, and towards the edge of the workpiece you start feathering, or go to your secondary current.
most aluminium welding around here is all done like that in our sheet metal shops, no-body has time to be dragging around a foot pedal, and the quality of their work is beautiful.
If it were my budget, I'd get the Parweld. The foot pedal is firmly in the "nice to have" category.
It's only an advantage on extremely thin steel, or aluminium.... where you can get away with a machine that either feathers in 2T on the button (i.e. on/off the button to ramp the current to how you want it) or, like Hood says, a tap between main and secondary current... so you start with a good heat, and towards the edge of the workpiece you start feathering, or go to your secondary current.
most aluminium welding around here is all done like that in our sheet metal shops, no-body has time to be dragging around a foot pedal, and the quality of their work is beautiful.
If it were my budget, I'd get the Parweld. The foot pedal is firmly in the "nice to have" category.
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
A grand on the hip doesn’t go particularly far and tbh if buying new is the only option then the smart money is to go with one of the WTL machines. Thermal arc/ parweld etc. Be aware the 5/6 year extended warranty comes with terms like periodical servicing which you have to pay for and cover the shipping costs if it’s back to base. I don’t know all the ins and outs but do your homework because you don’t get those extra years without paying for it some how. If it was my £1000-1300 it would be kept in my wallet until something really nice used came up or I’d put it away, not rush and save up some more to buy something really nice new. I like really nice tig sets so I’d be waiting patiently until I could afford one 
A grand on the hip doesn’t go particularly far and tbh if buying new is the only option then the smart money is to go with one of the WTL machines. Thermal arc/ parweld etc. Be aware the 5/6 year extended warranty comes with terms like periodical servicing which you have to pay for and cover the shipping costs if it’s back to base. I don’t know all the ins and outs but do your homework because you don’t get those extra years without paying for it some how. If it was my £1000-1300 it would be kept in my wallet until something really nice used came up or I’d put it away, not rush and save up some more to buy something really nice new. I like really nice tig sets so I’d be waiting patiently until I could afford one
Ordinarily I’d agree, but my workload is piling up and my lack of tig is holding me back so I’m getting a little snappy with making a decision.
And nothing really nice second hand comes up, otherwise I’d have bought one by now.
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Is this going to be a regular money making tool then?
Not really, but I have a full exhaust to weld (manifold and turbo back) to do on my car, a mates van exhaust cat back, boots pipes for my car, exhaust valves on my daily, as well as a couple of little bits and bobs. The main thing it’s holding me back on is my project that needs the exhaust.
doubleboost
Member
- Messages
- 3,821
- Location
- Newcastle upon Tyne England
What ever you buy get the highest out put you can
Running a 200 amp set at 160 is way better than a 160 running flat out
No matter how much you have you always need a little bit more
Running a 200 amp set at 160 is way better than a 160 running flat out
No matter how much you have you always need a little bit more
Tom Orrow L
Member
- Messages
- 2,819
- Location
- Shropshire, UK
I’m another vote for either the Stealth or the Parweld. R-tech ain’t the only ones that back up their sales 
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
That looks like the bulk of your welding work is a dc application.
Looking at what your faced with there I wouldn’t be concentrating my priorities on worrying about a machine that would be secondary. You need a nice torch to make a good job of that.
Tom Orrow L
Member
- Messages
- 2,819
- Location
- Shropshire, UK
Both machines every feature you’ll need. up slope / down slope, AC frequency and balance control, pulse, gas post and pre flow and AC and DC output.
The Stealth has power factor correction meaning you can running it at higher amps on a standard plug and it also has a free pedal with it if you were dead set on a pedal.
Tom Orrow L
Member
- Messages
- 2,819
- Location
- Shropshire, UK
If it’s mainly stainless and mild he’s welding I reckon he could spring for a nice Lorch DC only set with a nice torch with £1300 to spend. What’s available?
No particulars, just a comparison between the two
Yes it is, but I also want to future proof it a bit as I’m. It about to buy a welder every few months, my second hand EWM mig I’ve had for about 2 years now and I don’t feel the need to upgrade yet.
Ok cool thanks for the info. Not dead set on a pedal but it’ll be nice to try.
Please don’t get too hung up on the stainless I have plans for aluminium too. I originally planned to get an old mig torch I have to be adapted to fit my EWM as it has lift tig just to get all this done for less than £100. But if I’m buying a stainless welder I’m buying one that can do aluminium too as the majority of the work I do gets eaten up by my EWM
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
He’d get a lovely little micortig 200 basicplus for that. Same set you played with at Cannock.
