Brad, I'm new to arc, so still learning, I know I'm bad at it. I've mig welded for 35yrs or more, I'm ok at that, I started Tig welding just over a year ago, I'm getting there with that, but arc welding, particularly fillets is proving to be a struggle, I just can't see a definable puddle. I know my eyes aren't great, I use my reading glasses and have a really good Lincoln Viking helmet. I'm using 6013 rods which I believe are hardest to see the puddle anyway!
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Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Nowt wrong with 6013's.
I find it's a question of finding the sweet spot in the amps, and the correct arc gap. Just takes practice.
A 50 quid inverter will improve you no end and not cut out after 2 mins.
Also, use both hands, or chop rods in half?
Looks like you need more amps.
Also at the start of your weld you need to get the weld puddle running between both pieces of metal before moving along the joint, otherwise the weld will just cling to one side like your pics. Once you strike the arc lengthen the arc for a second or 2, this gives a hotter weld & helps getting the pool started, then go back to a short arc.
Also at the start of your weld you need to get the weld puddle running between both pieces of metal before moving along the joint, otherwise the weld will just cling to one side like your pics. Once you strike the arc lengthen the arc for a second or 2, this gives a hotter weld & helps getting the pool started, then go back to a short arc.
W.olly
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Its true to best start on a butt joint or open outer corner. i just tried to make a cabinet for my lather from 4mm plate and a bit of 3mm angle. I can do all welds not to bad even at times vertical, but for the fillet weld, sometimes good sometimes bad. I used to be good at them fillets but now cant get the knack of tit again. So on this project i did double welds all around to make sure lol.
Rkweld
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This is all good practice, try putting some runs down on the material you are using, just straight runs on one piece on the flat. You will get an idea of the amperage you need for a good weld profile.
Then use them to do your fillet, working out the speed helps with a fillet, too slow and the slag will over run your weld pool so mess around with a faster and slower technique.
I always use both hands. Don't give up! I bet there are plenty of people here with hidden pictures of their first crap welds!
Then use them to do your fillet, working out the speed helps with a fillet, too slow and the slag will over run your weld pool so mess around with a faster and slower technique.
I always use both hands. Don't give up! I bet there are plenty of people here with hidden pictures of their first crap welds!
ha!!! I’m getting somewhere. Cranked the amps up which allows me to hold a tighter arc - I could sort of feel the flux against the parent metal which I think is right? Anyway, it’s not beautiful but a lot better. I think amps are a little too high maybe so a bit more trial and error with that and travel speed.
Feet 'n Inches
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I worked on practising lap welds before moving on to fillets - it made life a lot easier. Still make the occasional cock-up but hey ho, nobody's perfect. 
That's a whole heap better.
Clean the rust and scale off first, stop relying on the welder burning through it.
Keep the travel speed steady. That will sort the undercut. Make sure you are comfortable and use your 2nd hand to steady the rod about halfway up until you get used to the motion.
Look at the red circle - try to replicate what you did here and improve on that. The blue bits are where the weld pool has not established properly and thus not penetrated the workpiece. Lack of cleanliness and moving too fast are the likely causes here.
As for the amps, don't worry about turning down yet. You won't burn through that material and it's easier to weld hot than it is cold. Too many amps will cause spatter but you don't seem to have much of that anyway.
Clean the rust and scale off first, stop relying on the welder burning through it.
Keep the travel speed steady. That will sort the undercut. Make sure you are comfortable and use your 2nd hand to steady the rod about halfway up until you get used to the motion.
Look at the red circle - try to replicate what you did here and improve on that. The blue bits are where the weld pool has not established properly and thus not penetrated the workpiece. Lack of cleanliness and moving too fast are the likely causes here.
As for the amps, don't worry about turning down yet. You won't burn through that material and it's easier to weld hot than it is cold. Too many amps will cause spatter but you don't seem to have much of that anyway.
Brilliant - thanks. One thing I noticed with the higher amp setting was that I had to speed up to keep ahead of the weld pool - it was sort of squeezing out in front of the rod. I think my angles were about right - 20ish degree drag but I may have been drifting so I'll keep an eye on that. I'll definitely slow it down and see if I can improve things though. Sadly need to do some work this afternoon so no more playing for now!
Thanks again for everyone's guidance - I'm learning heaps and really enjoying picking up something new.
Robert Mullins
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It appears to me that your machine is not delivering you enough amps; the moment you strike an arc, the root should burn away, the weld pool form and the slag float to the rear of the weld pool( you can see the slag, it's darker than the weld metal) ignore what your machine is telling you it's pumping out, turn it up/up)up;
The slag trapped within the weld is caused by not enough amperage to melt the root, once you have slag trapped it creates hassle: try drying your electrodes, try a smaller sized electrode, or try a different welding plant
The slag trapped within the weld is caused by not enough amperage to melt the root, once you have slag trapped it creates hassle: try drying your electrodes, try a smaller sized electrode, or try a different welding plant
Absolutely right. I did miles of very decent work (for an amateur) on my boat, both mild and 5mm and up stainless with a big old buzz box.
Its ability to hold an arc deteriorated so gradually I thought I was just losing my touch, then I nipped down to a friend's workshop to fab up some stuff on his welding setup- two paralleled oil cooled Oxfords. Bliss, couldn't lose the arc if I tried. Same with the inverter I have now. Old buzz boxes lose their grip and give you a far from smooth current.
HughF
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A new welder will have a hard time seeing the dividing line between the puddle and the slag on most 6013 rods. 7016 is 100% easier, but let's not go there.
I think we should! I'm willing to listen/learn.
HughF
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The biggest problem with 6013 is that there is basically very little definition to the slag/puddle interface. This makes learning a prolonged process. You basically can't mess up a fillet with a lo-hydrogen.
