The Centec was a very popular and well known mill, I'd be surprised if he was wrong on this one. The reversing switch, surprisingly, seems tp bear it out! I just have these awful visions of work being accidentally fed into a tool going the wrong way and tje resulting mayhem!With the lathes site, you need to take anything you read with a pinch of salt. Tony isn't always correct in what he writes.
my brigie has reverse on it and its standard . you can auto run the table back if you reverse itWhy the reversing switch? Surely it should only ever go one way? I foresee some nasty crashes if it doesn't!
Ooooh, good point!my brigie has reverse on it and its standard . you can auto run the table back if you reverse it
I set a watch on ebay and it came up, I was surprised as I thought I would end up buying a complete rough machine to get it.Fantastic, well done where on earth did you find that?
Cheers,
MM
Yes, They are on http://www.lathes.co.uk/centec/page6.html I emailed twice enquiring and never got a response.You can get a spacer block for these to lift the head and make more bed clearance too. Useful addition maybe...
I will take more pics tonight. Ket me know if there is anything in particular you want a pic of.Only replying so I can go through all the pictures and ask questions.
Have a Centec 2, or rather a pair, that I’m making one out of so more pictures of yours would be excellent so I can get pieces in the right places.
Wonder if the vertical head would fit the 2?
Took a few more pics tonight:Only replying so I can go through all the pictures and ask questions.
Have a Centec 2, or rather a pair, that I’m making one out of so more pictures of yours would be excellent so I can get pieces in the right places.
Wonder if the vertical head would fit the 2?
Hi Peter,Hi Rannaschair, I've just started the strip and rebuild of my fathers old Centec 2A. I have the MkIII vertical milling head, but I don't think its been loved. I've really appreciated the photos above, but what would be enormously helpful is if you could show the arrangement at the top of the quill into which the drawbar fits. Mine appears to have sheared off about 5mm above the quill top. I don't have the circular plate at the top as you show in one of the pictures above. Any detail you can provide in that area would be hugely appreciated, plus, if its really easy, a picture of the drawbar itself when removed from the machine as I'm concerned that it may have a flange at the bottom which acts against a face in the quill shaft.
Apologies for what is probably a very confusing message, but its so much more difficult in text rather than pictures!
Hope it makes sense.
Regards
Brilliant photos - thats exactly what I needed. For info I've also received some photos on the model-engineer's forum that shows a slightly different arrangement. For now I know that the bit of bar I can see at the top of my quill shaft should be able to ease the chuck out of the taper. I think wedges, a bit of heat, and a 1lb hammer are likely to be the solution. Then I'll have to repair the drawbar.Hi Peter,
Not sure if these help:
If you need detailed dimensions, let me know and I will measure the parts.
Good Luck.