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Respect The Sound System
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Fixed that for you, mate.
Only possible after three shredded wheat, but I don’t like shredded wheat
- Thread starter Screwdriver
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Only possible after three shredded wheat, but I don’t like shredded wheat
Screwdriver
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Lots of boring chores and tidying up today but one little job. Tong rack and hammer rack. Was going to make it free standing but the space has pretty much organised itself now and they can live on the wall.
Bent cold by hand, radius is unimportant and if these work ok I will make better versions with a better bend.
Drill at an angle so the bar is level at the top without the hole being close to the edge.
Then I just hammered it in and stuck it on the wall.
I am reorganising the area because I want to move the forge to the other end of the space. It's just too big for the brick bench, it hangs over the edge even with the back pressed up against the wall. If I pull it forwards I still can't go all the way though for swords (well, ok, for rebar really) so I end up swinging it sideways which means I can't get metal in/out very easily. The fume hood can stay and be used for the smaller biscuit tin forge and welding duties etc.
So it will end up here at the other end ->
I need to punch through the wall anyway for ventilation and I can fit a stack outside at this end. Since it's only for hot air from the propane forge, it shouldn't need extraction so long as I am careful with the design. Probably another hood, probably in aluminium sheet (I have a large secondhand roll of it).
The other reason for this 180 degree shift is that I could never find a good spot for the vice. No good having it tucked away in that corner, the swing of the handle is probably the best part of 2m (!) and it gets used a lot now. Also I can put the swage block front and centre next to the anvil. Naturally I will also need to shift the propane tank(s) away from this area.
I built the forge with fitting it to a stand in mind. It doesn't need to occupy valuable bench real estate, I might even stick it on wheels.
Question is, can I get away with plastic (abs??) soil pipe for duties as a warm air flue or will I need spiral ducting or steel pipe? Has anyone got any ducting going spare?
Bent cold by hand, radius is unimportant and if these work ok I will make better versions with a better bend.
Drill at an angle so the bar is level at the top without the hole being close to the edge.
Then I just hammered it in and stuck it on the wall.
I am reorganising the area because I want to move the forge to the other end of the space. It's just too big for the brick bench, it hangs over the edge even with the back pressed up against the wall. If I pull it forwards I still can't go all the way though for swords (well, ok, for rebar really) so I end up swinging it sideways which means I can't get metal in/out very easily. The fume hood can stay and be used for the smaller biscuit tin forge and welding duties etc.
So it will end up here at the other end ->
I need to punch through the wall anyway for ventilation and I can fit a stack outside at this end. Since it's only for hot air from the propane forge, it shouldn't need extraction so long as I am careful with the design. Probably another hood, probably in aluminium sheet (I have a large secondhand roll of it).
The other reason for this 180 degree shift is that I could never find a good spot for the vice. No good having it tucked away in that corner, the swing of the handle is probably the best part of 2m (!) and it gets used a lot now. Also I can put the swage block front and centre next to the anvil. Naturally I will also need to shift the propane tank(s) away from this area.
I built the forge with fitting it to a stand in mind. It doesn't need to occupy valuable bench real estate, I might even stick it on wheels.
Question is, can I get away with plastic (abs??) soil pipe for duties as a warm air flue or will I need spiral ducting or steel pipe? Has anyone got any ducting going spare?
Screwdriver
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Oh well, here we go. Using the forge for the first time in anger.
A lot of my early "work" is going to be rebar because I literally have a ton of the stuff. Secondly a builder neighbour "friend" of mine (there's a long story there...) has sold up and moving on and I thought I'd make him a parting gift. A bit of rebar LOL.
To be honest, it's turned out a darned site better that I could have hoped for what with me not having the first clue how to forge.
Anyhow, next I need to make a leaf for his missus. I'm going to try and find something easier than rebar for that. I hope rebar is particularly difficult compared to mild steel because otherwise, this blacksmithing lark is a lot more hard work than I first suspected.
The hood and vent is actually working well enough to get by. I have angled it so the flames exit under the hood (a bit) and the hood gets hot, protecting the ceiling as I had hoped. Rather than turn the entire workshop 180 degrees I am going to extend it where it is. Build up the concrete forge base and move the hood up and out on some additional 6x2 timbers.
A lot of my early "work" is going to be rebar because I literally have a ton of the stuff. Secondly a builder neighbour "friend" of mine (there's a long story there...) has sold up and moving on and I thought I'd make him a parting gift. A bit of rebar LOL.
To be honest, it's turned out a darned site better that I could have hoped for what with me not having the first clue how to forge.
Anyhow, next I need to make a leaf for his missus. I'm going to try and find something easier than rebar for that. I hope rebar is particularly difficult compared to mild steel because otherwise, this blacksmithing lark is a lot more hard work than I first suspected.
The hood and vent is actually working well enough to get by. I have angled it so the flames exit under the hood (a bit) and the hood gets hot, protecting the ceiling as I had hoped. Rather than turn the entire workshop 180 degrees I am going to extend it where it is. Build up the concrete forge base and move the hood up and out on some additional 6x2 timbers.
monkeh
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Whats the cubic inch area in that forge? It looks to big for a single burner. A single 3/4" burner is good up to around 350 cu/in after that you will struggle to get your steel hot enough, especially if it isnt coated well and blocked off at the openings.
slim_boy_fat
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Screwdriver
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It is a monster. I have shoved a full insulating brick in there to block off the rear end port and when it cools down, I'm going to put two more along the sides. There's plenty of room in there! It is on my to do list to reconfigure it but not to worry for now, it gets plenty hot when you crank it up.
Screwdriver
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Raided Thunderbird 2 for some steel stock and grabbed a decent size bar. Curse my luck, it's bloomin brass! Oh well, plenty more where that came from...
Inch ish bar of mystery metal (I'm guessing mild steel!) and following Brian Brazeal off You Tube, away we go.
Again, it has turned out a lot better than it ought'a and again, it's a LOT more difficult than YouTube would have you believe! Blasted thing want to go corscrew all the time, I ignored the cold shut at the end (I kinda like it now), I didn't quite draw out enough stem to reach across the width of my anvil which caused all sort of grief. But it's nearly there...
Remember those truck springs I straightened out? This should come in handy.
Hardened in an ammo box of veggie oil, I think water would be better. Didn't have any on hand.
Tempered back just in case.
Now have a cuppa. Watch BB do his magic again, then go out to finish off.
Inch ish bar of mystery metal (I'm guessing mild steel!) and following Brian Brazeal off You Tube, away we go.
Again, it has turned out a lot better than it ought'a and again, it's a LOT more difficult than YouTube would have you believe! Blasted thing want to go corscrew all the time, I ignored the cold shut at the end (I kinda like it now), I didn't quite draw out enough stem to reach across the width of my anvil which caused all sort of grief. But it's nearly there...
Remember those truck springs I straightened out? This should come in handy.
Hardened in an ammo box of veggie oil, I think water would be better. Didn't have any on hand.
Tempered back just in case.
Now have a cuppa. Watch BB do his magic again, then go out to finish off.
slim_boy_fat
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I'm impressed. 
Screwdriver
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I surprise myself sometimes...
I think it looked better on the branch but it needs to be a handy little nicknack...
I chopped it off with a bolt cropper to keep the rustic look but when I cooled it down in oil after brushing, it took on the peacock tempering colours. I locked those in pronto and will probably spray varnish it to help it last. I would have liked to just tweak the very tip to give it a bit more bend but this is my first attempt and I can't afford to muck this one up.
I think it looked better on the branch but it needs to be a handy little nicknack...
I chopped it off with a bolt cropper to keep the rustic look but when I cooled it down in oil after brushing, it took on the peacock tempering colours. I locked those in pronto and will probably spray varnish it to help it last. I would have liked to just tweak the very tip to give it a bit more bend but this is my first attempt and I can't afford to muck this one up.
If your working everything by hand try and b use 3/4" or smaller. The extra time and effort isn't worth it. Also be aware of your shoulder/elbow for over working especially if you use larger hammers to move thick stock. Tennis elbow can take years to get over and is always hovering in the back ground.
The best blacksmithing instruction I've ever been given is get it hotter and hit harder.
Using gas I'd aim for at least yellow heat as a starting point.
Andrew
The best blacksmithing instruction I've ever been given is get it hotter and hit harder.
Using gas I'd aim for at least yellow heat as a starting point.
Andrew
For unknown steel heat treatment. Start with oil. File test and check for decarbonisation by getting the file to bite into the steel. If it's still soft either heat the oil for a faster quench or try water but expect it to break until proven right.
Obviously the time taken making what your hardening will guide your choices. 10 minutes making a punch is little lost compared to hours making a knife or axe.
Obviously the time taken making what your hardening will guide your choices. 10 minutes making a punch is little lost compared to hours making a knife or axe.
Screwdriver
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Some good info in there. Thanks chaps.
Screwdriver
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Been meaning to make up a taller anvil stand like this:
But I didn't quite have enough scraps of 4x4. Nipped down to Wickes and after sorting an entire pile of their fenceposts, found a useable length of wood. Chopped it up in the carpark and brought it home on the bike.
It was very rough sawn but I have a bandsaw <proud> Set it up for wood and away we go.
My woodworking abilities have never been so acceptable,especially with larger pieces. I think even my old table saw would have struggled with 4 inches in 2 passes.
I would never have even attempted a railway sleeper.
This thing is AWESOME!
Here it is loosely assembled upside down.
It's 30mm higher than I had planned, I wasn't sure I would be able to cut it accurately on the first attempt and too high is better than too short.
It does look a bit skinny for the height but I'll try it as-is and I can always fit some slightly wider angle iron feet.
But I didn't quite have enough scraps of 4x4. Nipped down to Wickes and after sorting an entire pile of their fenceposts, found a useable length of wood. Chopped it up in the carpark and brought it home on the bike.
It was very rough sawn but I have a bandsaw <proud> Set it up for wood and away we go.
My woodworking abilities have never been so acceptable,especially with larger pieces. I think even my old table saw would have struggled with 4 inches in 2 passes.
I would never have even attempted a railway sleeper.
This thing is AWESOME!
Here it is loosely assembled upside down.
It's 30mm higher than I had planned, I wasn't sure I would be able to cut it accurately on the first attempt and too high is better than too short.
It does look a bit skinny for the height but I'll try it as-is and I can always fit some slightly wider angle iron feet.
Screwdriver
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I might add an extra layer. I have one last metre of sleeper.
slim_boy_fat
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Are you going to drill, glue and bolt through as per your previous drawing?
I suspect you're like me, too many projects started but set aside 'for later' when a new one occurs to you.
I blame my 'grasshopper mind'.....
I suspect you're like me, too many projects started but set aside 'for later' when a new one occurs to you.
I blame my 'grasshopper mind'.....
Screwdriver
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Are you going to drill, glue and bolt through as per your previous drawing?
I suspect you're like me, too many projects started but set aside 'for later' when a new one occurs to you.
I blame my 'grasshopper mind'.....
Yes that's the plan. The bolts as shown should in theory lock all the parts together since they overlap. That is slightly spoiled with the addition of two more "inserts" but I'll sleep on it and come up with something.
Screwdriver
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Some time ago I bought a set of three lights, one of which was pretty much empty. Bought some new tubes but it would flicker, sometimes come on, then just died. So I bought a new ballast off eBay which turned up today.
Easiest thing it to cut off the wires. Cut through the first wire and, wait, what? it was empty insulation. Wire had broken internally! Doh!
Anyway, back to the plot.
I could have sworn these bolts were a LOT longer when I put them away. now they appear to have shrunk, they only just reach through two bits of wood.
Plan B: when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail. All I have is rebar. Lots of rebar...
Still probably going to fit another layer of wood to widen the base, just offering up the reabarbolt, have a cuppatea and a think.
12mm hole through half a metre of wood is a non trivial problem if you want stuff to line up with a recessed nut.
Easiest thing it to cut off the wires. Cut through the first wire and, wait, what? it was empty insulation. Wire had broken internally! Doh!
Anyway, back to the plot.
I could have sworn these bolts were a LOT longer when I put them away. now they appear to have shrunk, they only just reach through two bits of wood.
Plan B: when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail. All I have is rebar. Lots of rebar...
Still probably going to fit another layer of wood to widen the base, just offering up the reabarbolt, have a cuppatea and a think.
12mm hole through half a metre of wood is a non trivial problem if you want stuff to line up with a recessed nut.
