Ye Olde Forge

[Screwdriver]

When fitting your anvil put s layer of silicon to set it onto your stump/stand. This helps to kill the ring. I found it better than chain or magnets.
Andrew

I am going to bolt the anvil down to the stump with a pair of brackets. Which reminds me, I am probably leaving the bolts long so the nuts are proud and I can use the exposed thread for some additional brackets.

Sadly Amazon don't do instant delivery around here yet.

 

[vbottles]

Put a layer of silicon underneath the anvil when you bolt it down. Worse car you waste a couple of quid if it doesn't make a difference.
Andrew

 

[Screwdriver]

I'm sure you're right but it will be a temporary fixture until I am happy with the height. With any luck it should be about an inch too high meaning I can trim it. I am also keen to make the anvil deck height the same as my concrete bench and that isn't finalised yet either. So I am going to sneak up on a solution by keeping my options open for as long as possible.

 

[vbottles]

I don't remember what height your concrete table is the usual height for anvils is your knuckle in a loosely clenched fist hanging loosely by your side.
Anvils to low strain my back after a few hours and to high can set my elbow off.
Andrew

 

[Screwdriver]

The anvil is currently at the internet recommended knuckledragger height and it's too low for me. I'm going to lift it up a couple of inches and trim it down to height from there.

Meantime I built an extension to the hood mounting position.

It's quite subtle but those 4x2 side supports were really always in the plan, the upper support levels off the uneven ceiling. I then pushed it out another six inches including my new word of the day: corbels.

To my eyes it looks "right" even though the benchtop itself looks a bit skinny (more pics to follow). The hood stands proud of the bench edge which is as things should be.

In an ideal world I'd have a steel worktop on there but the paving slabs have grown on me even if they are a pretty horrible work surface!

 

[slim_boy_fat]

To my eyes it looks "right"

Very often, if a thing looks right, it generally is.

 

[Screwdriver]

I had a brainwave and can just about run a row of pavers behind the paving slabs. Brings the worktop out another 100mm to 700mm.

So I could have the forge turned to 90 degrees, though flame out of the front will spill out beyond the hood. I am more than happy to run it turned at an angle. Full hood coverage, good angle to pull out hot metal (using left hand) and full access to the rear port for bits that need to stick out like swords!*

*lets be honest, probably less like a sword, more like rebar.

I'll give the worktop a few days before I decide but I'll probably just mortar everything in and be done.

 

[Mattuk]

Hit the rebar enough times and it will become flat ish, kinda like a blade

 

[Screwdriver]

The problem with rebar as forge stock is its composition is completely unreliable. Might take an edge, might not. Might end up hard and tough, might go brittle. To start off with it is virtually designed to promote cold shuts.

I'm happy to bend it, happy to stamp it flat or even pop holes in it but I dont think you can manufacture tools from it reliably or build safety critical structures from it. With a bit of welding and fixturing yes but forging it is always going to be a step into the unknown.

First thing I did with it is make a little bit of rebar...

 

[Screwdriver]

Some progress. I fitted some temporary flaps to the ventilation holes (not shown) and mocked up the new anvil stand to see how I like the height.

Not too far off the model.

Complex curved shapes are hopelessly difficult in Sketchup but I wouldn't swap that for the incredible simplicity for more typical modelling I use it for.

84cm is (I think) very high for an anvil but a brief test tells me I like it! I was aiming for 82cm and left it long to perhaps trim later. Now I need to make up a dozen long bolts while I wait for my 12mm x 450mm auger bit to drill out the sleepers.

 

[Screwdriver]

I had to trim 10mm off two of the middle blocks - lengthways!

Seemed to take forever.

Now the block fits together properly. After laying them out this way, I decided to have each "short" block on either side to give me a step in the dead centre for alignment.

I happened to have four equal lengths of rebar, wasn't until I chopped them in half I realise I only need four! Duh.

A bit of a faff and a lot of mess. Rebar actually turns ok although the finish is dreadful (in my case).

Threaded and cut to lenght, i.e. about an inch more than I need. I figure it's a lot easier to cut a bit off than to add a bit on.

Glued up ready to be "nailed" together.

It turned out as well as I could have hoped. No great drama though running half a metre of 12mm drill meant the exit holes weren't always where I might have hoped...

They are still in two halves, only clamped together to make sure the glue sets up with the halves matching. Some of these blocks have a pronounced bow which I will need to plane off later.

 

[Screwdriver]

It's a bit like Christmas morning when you're a kid, except this time there will be a present waiting for you to unwrap...

Gotta be happy with that glue up. Not too fussed if it doesn't pull apart, it still needs drilling out but it's flat and level.

And I can't complain about the hand sawn rip cut edge either!

I fussed about a fair bit trying to get the least worst cupping, bowing and otherwise distorted fit up. I think there's one big bow to the outside I could plane off.

And I need to have a think about how to bolt this together so that I might still be able to run a power plane over it.

Those bolts are NOT coming out...

 

[Parm]

I made a similar wooden stand for my anvil. Anticipating that it would be difficult to drill a long straight hole I clamped up the wood, marked it all out on the outside and then transferred marks to drilling face. It took a bit of time but allowed me to make holes on drill press. They were over sized a bit for the studding I used. All came out deadcstraigh with a bit of give for adjustments in assembly

 

[Screwdriver]

Yes I tried that. I would need a floor standing drill press because even without a table, those chunks wouldn't fit. Come to think of it, you wouldn't get half a metre of drill bit in there either and even if you could, there isn't enough travel...

But for the side pieces things are a lot easier, only 100mm per brick. I can do them all initially on the drill press (except for the centrepiece), then run the long bit through freehand once assembled. What is making this a bit tricky is that the wood isn't straight or square (really) in any dimension. It's pretty good, but too far off for a tight fit with the rebar.

 

[Parm]

I used 50mm wood, so straight forward with a 120mm long bit at 14mm diameter to accommodate 12 mm studying.

I’ll get you a pic of mine, it’s got so rope handles to drag it all around. Might give you an additional idea if construction isn’t finished

 

[Parm]

These are 6x2 and 8x2 off cuts I got from a neighbor in the village. Arranged alternately and drilled through the 2” section.

The slots were to accommodate the C section I salvaged from some old racking. Helps also to spread across the timber and aids clamping. I torqued up the nuts good and proper then dabbed with some weld

Yours look like 75mm thickness. Should fit under most drill presses and only requires drill bit slightly longer than thickness of wood

The rope handle was a good idea at the time, but not very practical on the gravel

 

[Screwdriver]

I used 50mm wood, so straight forward with a 120mm long bit at 14mm diameter to accommodate 12 mm studying.

I’ll get you a pic of mine, it’s got so rope handles to drag it all around. Might give you an additional idea if construction isn’t finished

These are 100x200 sleepers. The main fixturing is a dozen through bolts, the glue should help I guess but the bolts have a dual purpose. Firstly of course they bolt all the sections together but the secondary purpose is to provide some ultra strong mounting points for brackets, shelving, holdowns maybe even floor brackets.

I am perfectly happy with the design, especially having four feet rather than a large flat base. The only thing I am not sure about is the look and feel of the Wickes feceposts. I wish I had some nicely aged solid 4x4 legs but, you gotta run what you brung...

I have been thinking about finishing off the core of the design with through bolts but then just screwing the legs on to the cross shape with a few coach screws. Big ones mind. means I can alter the height easily and more importantly, change the legs if some decent 4x4 turns up.

Out of interest, what height did you go for? Mine is currently 840mm though I might trim that down to 820 when I chamfer the feet.

 

[Parm]

These are 100x200 sleepers. The main fixturing is a dozen through bolts, the glue should help I guess but the bolts have a dual purpose. Firstly of course they bolt all the sections together but the secondary purpose is to provide some ultra strong mounting points for brackets, shelving, holdowns maybe even floor brackets.

I am perfectly happy with the design, especially having four feet rather than a large flat base. The only thing I am not sure about is the look and feel of the Wickes feceposts. I wish I had some nicely aged solid 4x4 legs but, you gotta run what you brung...

I have been thinking about finishing off the core of the design with through bolts but then just screwing the legs on to the cross shape with a few coach screws. Big ones mind. means I can alter the height easily and more importantly, change the legs if some decent 4x4 turns up.

Out of interest, what height did you go for? Mine is currently 840mm though I might trim that down to 820 when I chamfer the feet.

I can’t remember the height, but I followed something I’ve read on the web. Stand upright and make a fist. Measure from knuckles to floor. This is the height of anvil. Make stand to suit. Seems to work for me

The legs are going take most of the downward force, I’d be inclined to through bolt like you’ve done on the core section. You’ve got plenty of rebar and hopefully a long auger bit

 

[Screwdriver]

I can’t remember the height, but I followed something I’ve read on the web. Stand upright and make a fist. Measure from knuckles to floor. This is the height of anvil. Make stand to suit. Seems to work for me

The legs are going take most of the downward force, I’d be inclined to through bolt like you’ve done on the core section. You’ve got plenty of rebar and hopefully a long auger bit

Yeah, as I replied above, the internet knuckledragging height I find is too low. There was an interesting comment about too low = bad back and too high = tennis elbow, sort of thing. If I can save my back, I can live with a sore arm.

The anvil rests on the top corner of each leg. Over time I guess the wood will deform slightly to accept the anvil but it will still get a hold down and maybe a frame to prevent twist (if it ever gets bolted to the floor).

You're right though, I should see the plan though and bolt it up as per the original design. Only another eight bolts, sixteen ends and 32 holes . Damn this three dimensional instance of universe.

 

[Parm]

Yeah, as I replied above, the internet knuckledragging height I find is too low. There was an interesting comment about too low = bad back and too high = tennis elbow, sort of thing. If I can save my back, I can live with a sore arm.

The anvil rests on the top corner of each leg. Over time I guess the wood will deform slightly to accept the anvil but it will still get a hold down and maybe a frame to prevent twist (if it ever gets bolted to the floor).

You're right though, I should see the plan though and bolt it up as per the original design. Only another eight bolts, sixteen ends and 32 holes . Damn this three dimensional instance of universe.

I suppose that standard criteria won’t suit everyone, since I’ve had the anvil I’ve only ever used it a couple of times to hit hot metal. Otherwise quite regularly used for general bashing.

As a side project, make your self a straight drilling jig for the long auger.

One idea that comes to mind is a tube with same bore as auger diameter, weld perpendicular to some plate. Clamp plate to job and away you go.