addjunkie
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Mental effort is as healthy as physical. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.
- Thread starter Jim Davey
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Mental effort is as healthy as physical. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.
slim_boy_fat
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Who's going to break the champagne across the bow when you're finished and good to go? 
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
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Coming along nicely but the ballast looks a bit high
If I'd bolted the jig down like I should've done right from the off, I wouldn't have needed a couple of hundred kilos of blocks to stop the thing moving around on the slippery floor.
Next I have to improvise a way to tweak the rub-rail around, I might bump it in the press, or notch two bits of wood and bend it between them but I don't have a tube bender so it's going to be a trial.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Good idea that Jim
Here are some pics of the rope guide rails bent by the method mentioned above, these were done using the front of the Manitou or a mini digger front end, basically anything with a small enough gap and heavy enough not to get pulled around as you yark on the tube/bar
just tweak gently as you go and you can get a nice curve of varying degrees Top and bottom are solid Alu 25mm and 19mm, middle one is 3/4" Sch40 NB stainless.
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Did it come with assembly instructions Jim?
If i was doing that, i'd have started putting the sides on at the front, and worked my way back, sorry, i mean stern, and worked toward the bow
Using the leverage from the length of the sheet to pull it into the correct place, finishing on a corner where its easy to clamp up.
If i was doing that, i'd have started putting the sides on at the front, and worked my way back, sorry, i mean stern, and worked toward the bow
Using the leverage from the length of the sheet to pull it into the correct place, finishing on a corner where its easy to clamp up.
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
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Good idea that Jim
Here are some pics of the rope guide rails bent by the method mentioned above, these were done using the front of the Manitou or a mini digger front end, basically anything with a small enough gap and heavy enough not to get pulled around as you yark on the tube/bar
View attachment 119028
View attachment 119029 View attachment 119030
I think the tube will bend ok, the curve is quite gradual, even up the front end. Getting an even curve in both is going to be the most challenging part I think, and the two bends need to be a mirror image of each other. So, I may try to find a way to bend both at the same time.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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I would do it the way Jim has, start at the stern where you have two parts to weld to, the stern itself and the lower section of the hull and then work to the bow. Fair enough you don't have the leverage but you do have a right angle at the stern to help it start off in the right direction.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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If it is thin wall then yes but anything over 3mm and it is amazing the nice gentle curves you can get by tweaking back and forth and not trying to do it in one shot and it is also easy enough to bend back slightly if you have over bent it. Give it a go on some scrap and you will be amazed at the ease you can get a sweet curve with very little practice. Only thing is make sure the parts you are using to bend the tube do not have sharp edges of you will get a buckle.
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
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Did it come with assembly instructions Jim?
If i was doing that, i'd have started putting the sides on at the front, and worked my way back, sorry, i mean stern, and worked toward the bow
Using the leverage from the length of the sheet to pull it into the correct place, finishing on a corner where its easy to clamp up.
It did, and they suggest starting from the back. To be fair, once I went back and chopped out the two or three feet of full welds I'd done it all pulled into shape without much difficulty and everything lined up perfectly. I have to credit the quality of the kit as the fit up is absolutely spot on. I was expecting to have to deal with gaps or misaligned joints but if you keep it square and level in the jig and keep the thing weighted down it practically builds itself.
Pete.
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I'm no boatbuilder but I'm pretty sure the ballast is supposed to go in the bottom of the hull, not on the seats
