- Thread starter Paul.
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Paul.
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Another stainless part, this is a slide to get meat out of an injection machine into a dolav,
Its actually an alternative to the outfeed roller bed in this job, "clickme" to deal with a different meat product that doesn't travel over the rollers too well.
A proper wrist twister welding it up, every joint is continuously welded for hygiene purposes
Some sheet metal sides to go with it
Its actually an alternative to the outfeed roller bed in this job, "clickme" to deal with a different meat product that doesn't travel over the rollers too well.
A proper wrist twister welding it up, every joint is continuously welded for hygiene purposes
Some sheet metal sides to go with it
eSCHEn
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That looks a bit of a swine to weld up Paul. Very neat work mate
gordon stephenson
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Hi Paul, excellent as always., you just continue to make the rest of us bad,
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Amazing work! Can I ask how you polish up your stainless like that?
Paul.
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Elbow grease and patience, coupled with a combination of pickling paste, scotchbrite, wire brushes, flap wheels, and garryson blocks, for sheet metal you can get a nice clean industrial finish with a DA sander and scotchbrite,
This motor guard was made from 2B sheet, and hand finished with scotchbrite and abrasive block,
Its to replace this one that Mr maintenance has had a go at repairing.
Mid Wales welder
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How long did it take you to clean that up? I had to make some stainless conveyors (weren't for food, just used for moving pallets of grit salt) out of 4mm 304, they had been folded on the press brake and were a bit scratched and the tool marks were quite deep. I went over them with an 80 grit flap disk to get the whole thing looking the same, (they were 2.5m long) just walking along with the same pressure with out stopping end to end, then repeated with a 180 gripe flap disk and then the same with a soft polishing flap wheel. That took long enough to do! The customer was happy with how it turned out but I think next time I will finish off with scotch bright too.
Do you use any type of polishing wax (can't think of right name lol)? Or is it just a dry scotchbright?
This is the only picture I have, but you can see where it's been polished.
That's just a small bracket welded on for a switch to go into before being cleaned.
Paul.
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You would be better off not getting the tooling marks in the first place, urethane film on the vee will stop a lot if not all of the marks and soon pays for itself when factored against the time involved cleaning up, even a line of masking tape or gaffer tape on the bend can save you hours, make sure the tooling is clean and free from marks before you start,
Flap discs not really ideal for surfacing large areas, you just end up with a lot of swirly scratches, and a job that looks like its made from mild steel and is ready for painting,
flap WHEELS, can be used in line with the bend to put in or reinstate a grained finish,
You can use scotchbrite dry, but a bit of soapy water will make a big difference to how it works when used for graining by hand,
Also don't forget media blasting can give a really nice finish especially for food machinery,
Glass bead transformed this,
into this
Flap discs not really ideal for surfacing large areas, you just end up with a lot of swirly scratches, and a job that looks like its made from mild steel and is ready for painting,
flap WHEELS, can be used in line with the bend to put in or reinstate a grained finish,
You can use scotchbrite dry, but a bit of soapy water will make a big difference to how it works when used for graining by hand,
Also don't forget media blasting can give a really nice finish especially for food machinery,
Glass bead transformed this,
into this
brightspark
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nice job
i bead blast some of my tools and bits when they look a bit manky it gives them a nice satin stainless look finish
Mid Wales welder
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Ah that's a good idea about the urethane film! I don't do the press work, that's another guy, but I will suggest that to the boss next time. We don't really do a lot of stainless work (at least not where it needs to look that tidy) so the boss won't get the glass bead, but it may be worth changing the Ali shot to glass if we get a lot of stuff to do. We've had some stuff in to repair that was glass bead blasted and it looks really nice.
Did you pickle those welds before having them blasted?
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I used to hold a torch for a girl local to me.
You had a fire but no flame ?
Paul.
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Well the outfeed slide in post 23 above is working very well, so much so that I've now been asked to provide a slide for the feed side of the machine, much the same as before, pictures are before cleaning and an hour or so later when the pickling paste and a bit of elbow grease has done its job.
Before
After
Then got caught with one of those jobs that you have to do for next to nothing.
Some brackets to hang pushbikes from a garage roof rafters
Before
After
Then got caught with one of those jobs that you have to do for next to nothing.
Some brackets to hang pushbikes from a garage roof rafters
Paul.
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The latest creation, stainless steel fencing to go round some garden decking, there is no fall risk, its just a fence to make a play area, the gaps will be filled in with 10mm glass edged acrylic panels,
At the far end on the short leg there is a pair of gates, this is just the RH one with the post, still have the bolt and latch to do here, the hinge pivot bolt has a sleeve over it so that the threads are not worn away
It will be tied into an existing fence at each end, so I've stuck a rivet nut in to fix a bracket to
At the far end on the short leg there is a pair of gates, this is just the RH one with the post, still have the bolt and latch to do here, the hinge pivot bolt has a sleeve over it so that the threads are not worn away
It will be tied into an existing fence at each end, so I've stuck a rivet nut in to fix a bracket to
gordon stephenson
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Top class Paul, very impressive as per normal for you,
Paul.
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Cheers chaps, its simple stuff really though, here is a lower angle showing how the posts are attached, there are two rivetnuts at each joint, then assembled with button head socket screws, there are also drain holes at the foot of each post and under the top rail, I've seen these bolt together structures bulge on the flat sides when they have had frozen water in them. the mounting holes in the acrylic panels will be slotted to allow for expansion and contraction, the customer is a plastics specialist so I'll leave that to him.
gordon stephenson
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Thanks for the details Paul, Its the little things gained through much experience that gives the edge to top class work and elevates it above the usual run of the mill fabrications.
