ABAC Tamdem Compressor servicing and restoration

[AVI_8]

Tank looks very good as does the cylinders, looks like you’ve got yourself a bargain! Once you’ve sorted the initial wee problems.

 

[JOEPRO]

The replacement pump arrived today its in very nice condition and an original ABAC pump. I gave it a clean and refilled it with fresh oil



2011 pump on the right

I'll be keeping the original pump (less the damaged pulley) for future use if I ever need it.

I'm spraying the other motor and will put that back on with the belt guards on Saturday.

I have a new pressure gauge coming in post any day now and I'll start the wiring installation on Saturday.

The original control board has been stripped down for respraying before I mount it on my garage wall.

 

[AVI_8]

The replacement pump arrived today its in very nice condition and an original ABAC pump. I gave it a clean and refilled it with fresh oil

View attachment 400861

2011 pump on the right

I'll be keeping the original pump (less the damaged pulley) for future use if I ever need it.

I'm spraying the other motor and will put that back on with the belt guards on Saturday.

I have a new pressure gauge coming in post any day now and I'll start the wiring installation on Saturday.

The original control board has been stripped down for respraying before I mount it on my garage wall.

I have a knackered motor if you need a motor fan housing.

 

[JOEPRO]

I have a knackered motor if you need a motor fan housing.

Thank you for offering!

I had the cover off to spray and match the other one exactly. It does make a difference having both motors black and the matching electrical boxes now

As it arrived



First clean



Getting there now



New pressure gauge was also fitted.

Making new piping really is what is left on the compressor itself.

I did also respray the control box today after some corrective tin bashing





I used white hammerite hammered finish

 

[JOEPRO]

I got my 6mm welder supply split into a large Wago box and 40 amp wago connectors where it comes into loft at eaves level. And connected in another 6mm cable spur feed which is headed for this control board.

Resprayed Control board now mounted on the wall beside my shot blaster cabinet. It's within my comfortable reach here but also safely up out of harms way.



I have alot of wiring to do now over the next few days and I hope to fire it up Saturday afternoon if I can figure out the pipework situation also.

 

[JOEPRO]

I got a little sidetracked when my friends Mercedes GLA broke down and it was towed to my house. (I am an MB nut) I diagnosed the starter motor as having failed in it. Waiting on a new one now.

Anyway, I got the new cables ran through the garage attic this afternoon. 6mm Hi-Tuff serving the cabinet and 2.5mm rubber cable going to the motors.



I noted that the last guy was running this from 1.5mm cable

Old photos below

 

[JOEPRO]

Perhaps an auto drain valve would be good especially as you are having it up in the loft

Yes I have been meaning to check what thread is on my drain point on this ABAC tank. I think it may be best for my use level (or lack of) to plumb down from the tank to an easily accessible 1/4 turn Valve. Which then exits out through the garage wall. (Behind garage is my own "waste" ground)

Every now and then I can give it a blast.

 

[JOEPRO]

I got the compressor wiring completed this morning. And test ran the motors - all good.

All that is left really is to make good the pipework situation. (Complicated by the replacement pump but actually it will work out well I'll post more details later)

And to refit the plastic belt guards.

So by this evening this project should be completed and ready for a test run. There is one replacement pump and the other one was dead before, had the head skimmed and new gaskets. Fingers crossed both pumps now join the party will find out soon.

 

[JOEPRO]

First real run after metal pipes connected. I straightened the original 14mm copper lines. One of them needed to be cut and flared to suit a nut which came with the replacement pump.

The replacement pump had a cooler on the outlet side. And the head had a different outlet fitting. Not treaded just a plain square port. Hence why I had to cut and flare one of the original lines to suit the cooler.



The left pump which had the head work is working just fine. Pumping away up to 150psi.

The right side was working OK too until it wasn't!

After the first full charge up and cut off at 150psi. (Maybe a little high for my liking) there were a number of air leaks. A massive one from the switch itself which I fiddled with and got it to stop but think it will be best to replace the switch assembly they are relatively cheap online. Like £10 or a little more.



The second and biggest issue now is there is air feeding back through the right pump. It is coming out of the oil dipstick constant even when turned off. I think this existing check valve is bad on the tank:



So I'll order a switch assembly and a valve or valve repair kit and see how it goes after that.

All in all that was alot of work making the wall bracket and rewiring etc. But once these last issues are sorted it will be a hell of an air supply for my garage looking forward to putting it to work.

Edit- I just realised the switch is likely AOK and only leaking a small amount now because of the check valve also!

 

[JOEPRO]

When you come to replace the switch, don't go for any one old. You want one what has two adjustments for the pressure. One that sets the turn off, and one which is for differential pressure (difference between turn off pressure and turn on pressure, so effectively sets your turn on pressure where as a single adjustment switch will have a FIXED differential pressure and henced fixed turn on pressure).
I run an ABAC in parallel with another cheaper compressor which has a single adjustment pressure switch and it was useless. I switched the pressure switch to a genuine ABAC one with the two adjustments and it was fantastic.

It's hard to tell on the original switch front but from what I can see it has one adjustment on top



I did remove the check valve and noticed dirt + a wear ring on it




I figured nothing to lose to wet sand it flat again and see.



It does appear to have made it better which helps confirm the diagnosis.

I will order 2x new valves later and maybe if I'm lucky I can just swap the innards over. Seems hard to find just the ABAC repair kit.

 

[JOEPRO]

Can you tell what the brass one is with the slot for a screwdriver?

That is just the cap fixing point. Not an adjustment.

I have drained the air again. And removed and measured one of the NRV assemblies. I'm ordering new Nuaire ones. Doing both as the other side is likely original too.

I will remove the complete switch now shorty and measure the intake port before making sure I order a correct one. I see new Nuaire ones at the below site

NEMA Single Phase Pressure Switch 3/8

Original NE-MA Pressure Switch, 12 Bar, 16A, IP54, Made in Italy

www.compressorshop.co.uk

Edit I ordered the new Nuaire brand non return valves in the correct size for my compressor. I will replace both of them first.

It belive my original pressure switch may be OK this is the NRV leaking back into it. And if it is still leaking after that then I will buy a new one. Not trying to save £ just that if the original part is not broken then I'd rather it stayed put VS an ebay item going on there.

 

[Bsmith]

Well I had bad news this morning- one of the 2x pumps had forking fell off my workbench during the night

The large pulley was bent on it. The aluminium pulley / flywheel. Oil was everywhere too it did a real number on its way down as the oil tray went with it.

They were sitting on rubber blocks. It's my fault- surprised it fell but obviously wasn't secure enough.

The pulley is banjaxed needs replaced and they are hard to find at the moment for any less than £100+ post.

There is a place in Ireland showing stock and cheaper I'll double check on Monday. Its a large tool place which I wanted to visit anyway.

What I did find when searching for about an hour was someone selling a good used 2011 year complete B3800 ABAC pump assembly. It included the correct diameter flywheel etc he measured it for me.

I think for now it is best that I use the new oil on this newer matching replacement pump and install that. It's not a total loss as I'll keep the other pump body as a spare for future. It is fine apart from a flywheel. Indeed I could likely stick it on ebay and get some £ back.

The other used pump was a fair price so I bought it.

What do you do- s#it happens. Furious with myself for that happening but I'll keep going and look on the brightside I have a spare pump now

I bought an ABAC cheap because it had a broken pulley. I cut the middle out of the pulley and fitted the centre of an alloy spoked car wheel rim. Put screws through the bottom of the V into each spoke then ground the heads off. The spokes create enough cooling air. That was around 10 years back and it is still working fine.

 

[JOEPRO]

I'd be surprised if that pressure switch is original if it doesn't have differential pressure adjustment. Surely an ABAC of that price range would (mine, the single version of you compressor, did). I would highly recommend a pressure switch with that capability.

It maybe does but just from the top can see the one adjustment screw.

It is marked as made in Italy etc so I do believe it is original.

I will address the faulty NRV issue first then run it again and see what it's like. Looking at a YouTube video of another ABAC tandem it cuts out at 135psi. So I will be reducing mine to that level high cut off and see when it cuts back in at present too.

 

[JOEPRO]

Also noticed with these off and side by side they are not matching. So it's had some work on these before in the past.



In any case there is a pair of genuine Nuaire valves coming in the post in a few days. Didn't want to save a few £ on amazon etc got the genuine ones.

 

[brightspark]

Also noticed with these off and side by side they are not matching. So it's had some work on these before in the past.

View attachment 402326

In any case there is a pair of genuine Nuaire valves coming in the post in a few days. Didn't want to save a few £ on amazon etc got the genuine ones.

realy pushing the boat out there

 

[JOEPRO]

I did also fit black plastic end caps onto the wall bracket.



What, did yourself think I was some sort of animal!!!???

 

[JOEPRO]

The new NRVs may be here tomorrow according to the tracking.

I did clean up the old ptfe (tape and liquid turned cement like) on the pipe fittings.

This way there is no risk of the new valves getting contaminated by debris.



I will use a few wraps of PTFE tape over the olives themselves before assembly to ensure 100% seal. No liquid sealers will be used due to high risk of downstream contamination.

 

[JOEPRO]

Update - I got good progress now and it werkz!!



Had pipework issues but got sorted. New Itialan made NRVs fitted both sides.

No air leaking now at all. Switch is OK too.

Adjusted pressure down to 130psi which feels right. 150 is too high imo.



Turning on and off just fine. LOTS of air. Fantastic powerful & quiet machine. After several test runs both pumps are still contributing to the party so all is working great.

One final job is to reseal the new pump base

The NRV failure has damaged the right pump sump seal. New seal ordered so I'll replace that and I think this mini project is wrapped up at that point.

 

[JOEPRO]

What pressure does it kick in at?

It kicks back in about 20 psi lower. So 110psi say.

I can run my CP 1/2 impact gun through XF fittings 10mm bore hose full tilt unloaded for about 2- 3 minutes before it kicks in again.

That is the original switch for this compressor so how it was designed to operate.

 

[Turbo]

Most air tools run at max 90 psi so you could lower the max pressure a bit more, I think mine is set at 120 psi. It gives the motor & pump an easier time plus they run cooler.