After 6 month wait, Project number 2 is coming home :)

[W.olly]

As always with my plans and luck. Its a change of plan.

I should of had it running this weekend. The plan was to get it going over winter to see whats needed and see what spec the engine is.
Couple days back i started to refit the heads with new lifters. And reuse whats already here. It was just lifters i needed as the originals were a bit dodgy with surface rust

Anyway. as i said. First head on and being torqued up. got 65lbs and bolt, No 12 striped the block. I think twelve as i forgot now but passenger side, second in bottom row has stripped. .
I didnt even chuck a spanner, but walked away a few times and came back thinking `did that happen`

So bonnet off

In mean time as i had thrown out my DIY engine stands i had for boat engine rebuilds, i bought one for sake of £60

For the money these SGS products are not bad for the money to say its Chinese. its a 680KG cap so plenty for the engine and box to be dragged out.

In a way i am glad in a few ways this happend a snow i can remove the Lamber sensor thing and refit it around the back.
The previous owner said its a god send fur tuning it. Not a clue yet how i do it using that.

Also splashed out on a leveller, easier than faffing with chains etc. makes me wonder why i didnt get these things sooner over the years.

So today i was all set to remove the block. detached the gear linkages. G box bolts, engine mounts.

AND my engine crane dont reach. Should of thought of that sooner

 

[W.olly]

Also the stands are in the way so i had to drip it on the ramps.

New plan is. drop it on the floor, push it out so i can get the engine out from the side. As you can see i am in the middle of repalcing the flags on the drive 6so that will need to be done asap so i can crack on more. also concrete more so i can get rid of the bulk bags.

Well getting there bit at a time. I am now going to get a new Mild Cam, i think a 252 is good to go for. and a better carb. As i unsure of the spec that the engine is ill do what i can now. Along with rebuild the front suspension as all the rubber have cracked.

 

[addjunkie]

Slide a bit of box section over to get the length required to lift the block. Add big weight to back of lift. That bag of sand would be ideal.
If in a hurry get a willing volunteer to stand on the back of the lift.

 

[W.olly]

Slide a bit of box section over to get the length required to lift the block. Add big weight to back of lift. That bag of sand would be ideal.
If in a hurry get a willing volunteer to stand on the back of the lift.

A bit risky when the engine and G box weigh near 400kg. Done it many a time before on other jobs but not worth the extra risk here when working on my own.

 

[Onoff]

Off topic but what make is that "garage"? Plus how much?

 

[W.olly]

Off topic but what make is that "garage"? Plus how much?

One of these.

Clarke CIG81224 Garage / Workshop – Green (7.3 x 3.7 x 2.5m) - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

 

[addjunkie]

A bit risky when the engine and G box weigh near 400kg. Done it many a time before on other jobs but not worth the extra risk here when working on my own.

I like the gantry on wheels for such things, a poor mans overhead crane if you like.

 

[W.olly]

I like the gantry on wheels for such things, a poor mans overhead crane if you like.

I dont it know, worst is. it was to big and cut it up back into beams. and it was in the way so i scrapped it. And i could of built a new one from the steel. I know what a plonker

 

[Mikes]

That's the problem with a knob extender long bonnet. Is there any chance of being able to lift using the engine crane from the side? Might have to remove one front wheel and carefully position the axle stand. Might have to reposition the car just outside and then roll it back when the engine is lifted.

 

[W.olly]

That's the problem with a knob extender long bonnet. Is there any chance of being able to lift using the engine crane from the side? Might have to remove one front wheel and carefully position the axle stand. Might have to reposition the car just outside and then roll it back when the engine is lifted.

As i mention in post 42 mate. easier from the side.

 

[W.olly]

I was near out woitht he lfit when i thought. Do i just Helicoil the head and stick the engine and box back in........nope i carried on. Why after such a faff to get it out to just do that.

I have to admit, thsi engine has been one pian to get out of all engines. Or was it just me worried not to damage Mainly o think access to get it out.
2 ton crane was not enough reach from the front. So i pushed it out enough to get it side on.

Still not easy as the wheel is in the way..

Anyway its out. With a few ` hang my head in shame` beginner mistakes. OIL seepage lol

So as the flagging is still not done and i was wangting the engine out i used the couple i have so i can just to push DILLIGAF out enough.

Just enough room with the none running motor home there. That has taken a step back now this beaut is here.

As with most of these classis it was easy enough to disconnect for removal. Couple of gear box links. engine mounts and earth/starter motor cables and away we go. .

I just wish i didnt strip down my big gantry and build a smaller one as my plan was. would of been easier. Hey i did it. Got to the point when it was half way out to detach the G box from the engine and do in two parts as it was not going well for a bit. .Then it just popped out...so to speak.

For about £30 i would highly suggest the SGS engine leveller. Having removed many engines and never had one i wish i had got one it sooner.

Now as you can see i messed up. besides loosing te Gbox oil on removal i sat the engine doen once G box was detached and all i can think is that i was/am that tired i just didnt think and over spilled engine oil.

Ah well sand to hand
I knew i should of got some soak mats from work. Infatc i am sure i have some in shed somewhere.

Another pain was fitting it to the engine stand. I had to route around the bolts i have to find some long enough to mount t he engine

I need now to decide on what to do with it. I dont have unlimited .funds as saving to petrol to run it haha.. I will be checking the spec of the heads, do my maths...god help it , and see what a good cam is to go for. As i have been doing but its all battered my head a bit at the minute.

I would like to get a new cam kit and use the heads i have with inlet manifold with the headers ( is the what we call them in the UK, or manifolds ? ) and then later mod the engine more. As in new heads and manifold. I don know yet.

Atleast its out

 

[W.olly]

As oi have ordered the parts i need and waiting in hope they arrive This weeks jobs was finish the lift i have been making.
As i need to make life easier i wanted to get it to a decent height. in this case 85cm to bottom of wheel height.
Hardest faff was getting it to 50cm to get it ot the lift. But my god it works a treat and easy

I have a couple air jacks of 3ton each. made some air lines up to use them independently.

Some folk think i am mental but hey ho. It works nice and easy. I love to make stuff so a project in itself.

So now i have easey access to the wheel arches and can sit on my chair underneath nice and comfy and saved a LOT of money.

I set up the two compressors to run inline for more capacity.

I jacked the rear first and front in sections to get it to the 50cm with a jacking beam, or a length of RHS.

Now to me these are safer than axles stands where some folk think different. But while under a car i would rather this than a axle stands.

So time to crack on with it

 

[W.olly]

So little to show but not been sat on my **** doing nowt. Never do thats why i am soo looking forward to my holiday in a weeks time

For this job i had to lower the car as this is to get the window switches out and door switches also as there a bit sticky.

Found to be a real easy job to do. two screws on side panel/s

then two at the bottom of the console, this had been done before as the screw heads were 10 and 8mm.

Then just Two small screws for the switches then they come out

Then one either side of the front facia

Sorry pics in wrong order but you bet the idea.

 

[W.olly]

So all these are going in the cleaner soon. Just want to strip the carb down once i have............

Given it a blast in the cabinet.




After emptying the Allly oxide was cleared, that itself as a faff as i dont want any clogging the carb up. Then i added about 5kg into the cabinet of Bi Carb. After a fettle to the feed set up it worked pritty well, first time i have used Bi Carb in a cabinet, very dusty as expected and difficult to see at time but with the vac connect it cleared in seconds to carry on.

I am in the process of making a proper filer system so i jsut connect the vac diect to the cabinet.

Oh yes and more cleaning. Whiule i got a spare hour i do these.

just had to order a smaller polish kit as these were with a 100mm kit. bit wary in the hand drill haha.

 

[W.olly]

And for Project ` **** he is going to try to kill himself again part 2 ` haha

Ill ,let you guess whats going on

Acro prop/s with some angle iron and flat bar.

I am still bleedin waiting for the main parts i need to et the engine built and bits on the list

So since i paid and will receive the parts from a `specialist` supplier it will have taken near 5 weeks and a whole lot of arsing about.

And the Poly bush kit taken 5 days to arrive, all parts from America. I think i will from now on go with either Summit Racing or Jegs for parts needed. I only got one good service from a Hot rod business in the UK for the lifters i bought a few months back. The ` Speicailst` i am waiting for to get the parts to me even tried to charge me more than the price he gave me.

So if all is well ill get the front end lifted to get the suspension rebushed in next few weeks. I was meaat to be going aw for a couple week in two days ut T`s son has had a swelling on the brain and is I CU now so thats cancelled so i have more time to do this inbetween hospital.

Saying that i had injections aswell today for trigger finger for the thrid time and dam it hurts this time so i want to get the car done before surgery as i need to go to see the Orthopedics.



Got a bit more blasting to get done but done a rocker cover the other day. a few hard areas to get into as you can missed a few tough spots. Mite give them another blast with the other parts next week.

Bought a new polishing kit aswell as the 150mm were a bit big int he frill haha

£18 well spent will do the wheels bit at a time over the next few months.

I messed up again when stripping the carbs and snapped a spring and a couple screw. just have to drill and tap them up one.

got the Dremmel on it and now as said fix that cock up, yes i should of soaked it in release a bit.

I have decided to get some Lanoguard for the chassis work, this kit to get in the nooks and crannies. I was going to get a 5l and make my own injector kit but why bother....i am getting old and lazy now hey.

Lanoguard Underbody Rust Protection KitsRegular Injector Kit

Our DIY underbody & chassis rust protection kit gives you everything you need for underbody protection for car & vans - QUICK & EASY. Click here for more info!

www.lanoguard.co.uk

So wire brush to hand and a dust mass i guess and get cracking this week. once the front end is off.

 

[W.olly]

Finished the axle stands.

used off cuts and bits i had lying around for years so cost nothing again......bigger bonus.

Turned some thick wall tube down few mm so i could weld these into the acro tops and then fit different heads when needed.

These angles i had lying around for yeasr and one of them things i knew would come in handy one day.

And same with this cannel.

Good for chassis supports.

 

[W.olly]

The heads i used are the V top as these could get in on the chassis end. Best place to support these Vettes.

I ams till surprised how good this car is. its beenw ell looked after. Plan now is to strip the suspension and rebuild it all with a clean/blast, repaint and rebush witht he Poly kit i have.

Assell as rebuild the calipers as they can leak easy these things so while its up and stripped.

Good new i hope on the parts aswell, the couriers/transportes are due to collect them tomorrow and got them on a 5 day delivery. .

 

[W.olly]

Its been a good strip down and clean up tnhis week.

Front end stripped bare now. Suspension and steering is all stripped. blasetd and repainted, well but for the D/S i need to blast it and paint it this weekend.

I am so happy with the conditon still. And if i lsitend to the folk and even a couple of specialist in Vettes not to buy it due to the price being so low i wouldnt of got this.

Easiest bit was to remove the dampers/shocks.

Also glad i researched a bit as i didnt know of the control arm shims. If i lsot these or got them mixed up it would be a reat pain in the **** to set the suspension up again.

I had to move the axle stand forward as once the lower arm was drop it was to close to it. These arms drop a fair way aswell.

This is why pictures are good as i forgot which way the springs go back in.

All ths to replace good bushes, well some are good some not. some are even Poly.

So all suspension removed from the front end. Time to clean and repaint and rebush

 

[Misterg]

Nice one - you've been cracking on a bit there.

 

[W.olly]

Nice one - you've been cracking on a bit there.

Got loads of time but sooner the better it's done.

Got the steering removed aswell.
Power steering on Pitman.




I decided instead of the usual black people go for I want a bit different and chose silver.for the suspension.

An hour int blaster cabinet and good for the paint. I chose POR15. I got it from Frost Restorations. Not to far from me.

Whilst under there I scrubbing back for chassis black

Or what ever I go for. I noticed something odd.

I'll update on that later.