marlinspike
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Looks good. I got a blasting cabinet from Frost recently. Not the cheapest necessarily but they are very helpful and you can pick things up if you're local.
- Thread starter W.olly
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W.olly
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I haven't used Frost for years and know but as back into cars and not to far. Although free delivery over ibthink £100. Eaay spent these days. It's a bit like a posh Machine Mart but with more car stuff haha. Got my cabinet off Ebay as damaged box. Still cost £220.
W.olly
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Ok then, i the issue i though i had but then didnt but then found another.
While under the (death trap) cleaning back for chassis treatment, of yet undecided choice, i noticed the handbrake cable rubbing along the bottom of the D/S base. Now i have had other cars which have been similar setup. They had a rubbing strip though. this hasnt though which got me worried a bit.
Like a daft sod i asked on a Facebook group before i looked into it more myself.
Well it all got me banging my head with saying the body mounts have failed, or the rear cross member is bent.
All to work out the D/S seat is lower due the power seat motor and gubbins
As you can see the chassis is as it was when manufactured.
I do wnat to investigate what the lump is for in the P/S seat base.
So for the cable ill add a rub strip myself to be sure and grease it up well.
BUT
While i was trying to work out this and that i found the D/.S is 40mm lower. from arch to wheel.
The body to chassis is fine and same both side.
While under the (death trap) cleaning back for chassis treatment, of yet undecided choice, i noticed the handbrake cable rubbing along the bottom of the D/S base. Now i have had other cars which have been similar setup. They had a rubbing strip though. this hasnt though which got me worried a bit.
Like a daft sod i asked on a Facebook group before i looked into it more myself.
Well it all got me banging my head with saying the body mounts have failed, or the rear cross member is bent.
All to work out the D/S seat is lower due the power seat motor and gubbins
As you can see the chassis is as it was when manufactured.
I do wnat to investigate what the lump is for in the P/S seat base.
So for the cable ill add a rub strip myself to be sure and grease it up well.
BUT
While i was trying to work out this and that i found the D/.S is 40mm lower. from arch to wheel.
The body to chassis is fine and same both side.
W.olly
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Not sure yet what these are bolts are for as D/S is lower then the P/S
With all this i reckon the leaf spring has failed/dropped on the D/S. All i can think of.
Now the other day i thought to sod it and ill rebuild the front end and sort the s\engine then et it going and do the rear end rebuild next winter. Now though i am considering fibreglass getting a Monospring for it while it up in the air. Then though ill have to do a full rear end rebuild.
Ah the body mounts, they are bad and maybe the worst part of the car. So ill be doing this as and when. Aslogn as the car rives its fine.
With all this i reckon the leaf spring has failed/dropped on the D/S. All i can think of.
Now the other day i thought to sod it and ill rebuild the front end and sort the s\engine then et it going and do the rear end rebuild next winter. Now though i am considering fibreglass getting a Monospring for it while it up in the air. Then though ill have to do a full rear end rebuild.
Ah the body mounts, they are bad and maybe the worst part of the car. So ill be doing this as and when. Aslogn as the car rives its fine.
W.olly
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Today hasnt seem much a happen at all due to the modern crap Merc we have has a leak so rear footwells are rather moist. so i had to attend to that with rear bumper off to fettle a couple of naff design vents seeping water in. .
I just did faff all on the Vette but soak the fuel pump and power steering pump more in degreaser so i can get to painting it this week.
Now though that all other parts are painted i can start to rebuild the front end. insert bushes etc and bolt back up. I need a hydraulic press to get the new bushes in some parts as they will not fit in the fly press.
I may yet buy one for sake of £150 for a cheap 20 tonner. Or like i do i could make one if i have the steel free int shed. Never had one so it will likely come in handy in the future instead of me using lump hammers and sockets.
The power steering set need a clean, this came off the other week and cleaned up.
Soaked and pressured washed in most areas. safe not blastng the inlet out outlets.
I would like to think all this will be back on in a couple weeks.
Got a goodnpile.now tongue at
The press will be handy for fitting these bushes
I just did faff all on the Vette but soak the fuel pump and power steering pump more in degreaser so i can get to painting it this week.
Now though that all other parts are painted i can start to rebuild the front end. insert bushes etc and bolt back up. I need a hydraulic press to get the new bushes in some parts as they will not fit in the fly press.
I may yet buy one for sake of £150 for a cheap 20 tonner. Or like i do i could make one if i have the steel free int shed. Never had one so it will likely come in handy in the future instead of me using lump hammers and sockets.
The power steering set need a clean, this came off the other week and cleaned up.
Soaked and pressured washed in most areas. safe not blastng the inlet out outlets.
I would like to think all this will be back on in a couple weeks.
Got a goodnpile.now tongue at
The press will be handy for fitting these bushes
Bullet2012
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Got to love a 350.
W.olly
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IMO one of the best old school engines, so much can be done with them for big power and more than anything sound
What is yours going in? you going for big spec/power.
Had a lot on so not managed to get a great deal done. Still got some important stuff done.
I made a press to get the bushes in the arms. Made easy work of that.
W.olly
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So those are the bushes. these are the tools i borrowed off a local Vette Head to help prevent the arms from buckling in when they are being pushed in.
They just slide over the arms, easy really.
And hey ho there we go
One thing, well a couple i have forgot to treat and paint. I did start to sand blast one but my god it takes ages to do them.
They just slide over the arms, easy really.
And hey ho there we go
One thing, well a couple i have forgot to treat and paint. I did start to sand blast one but my god it takes ages to do them.
Bullet2012
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The red one will end up in a boat, should be around 350hp on an MPI system.
The blue one has been sold on.
W.olly
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Today i also finished cleaning back the front chassis area so i can paint it soon.
I have been getting my stuff from Frost Restoration. they sell some good stuff there. I am using this lot on the Vette,
As said the chassis is prepped now first coat of rust POU15 silver rust prevenititive paint then the top coat black.
Also removed the AC and rest of the smog gubbins the other day.
I would love to do a complete strip down and rebuild but that bit more is wanting it running for a while first.
BUT then there is that voice in my head to buy another to do a full resto on it once this is running properly. Would love a 1974 C3.
I have been getting my stuff from Frost Restoration. they sell some good stuff there. I am using this lot on the Vette,
As said the chassis is prepped now first coat of rust POU15 silver rust prevenititive paint then the top coat black.
Also removed the AC and rest of the smog gubbins the other day.
I would love to do a complete strip down and rebuild but that bit more is wanting it running for a while first.
BUT then there is that voice in my head to buy another to do a full resto on it once this is running properly. Would love a 1974 C3.
truckdoctor
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You are doing a grand job with the C3 and it's going to be great ,I'd be hooked if you even more if could do a C2 next, my dream car with the two rear windows.
W.olly
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If i could afford a C2 would be good lol.
Near time to rebuild just a few more bits to paint then i can start.
I ordered some suspension parts Tuesday gone and will be here Mondy so that's a good one.
W.olly
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At long last most the engine and suspension is painted. And the bloody calipers are a different shade, i had atin in the shed for a while and used it but didnt have enough to finish the the calipers so i bought another can, same make shade etc etc.
Didnt come out that way haha. atleast you wont notice on each wheel lol.
Dont know why but i brushed the paint this time, usually spray it on but then its more masking off needed.
Took a good few tries to degrease it aswell, good couple hours to clean, but whata is the rush hey
Yes the right set is red, looks orange in the poic. Mite go over the others to match the colour.
I didnt even want red but as i had it.
Didnt come out that way haha. atleast you wont notice on each wheel lol.
Dont know why but i brushed the paint this time, usually spray it on but then its more masking off needed.
Took a good few tries to degrease it aswell, good couple hours to clean, but whata is the rush hey
Yes the right set is red, looks orange in the poic. Mite go over the others to match the colour.
I didnt even want red but as i had it.
W.olly
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Now if i had time to waste watching that crap ( which i dont and wouldnt if i did have time ) i would get what you mean haha
W.olly
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Weill i always wanted a mohican hair cut. Bit late now though unless i get a comb forward and spike it some how.
Anyway at last the front end of the chassis is painted. The heater has been on for a few hours and is staying on for another few hours.
Mite get to put it back together now.
You would think there was a rush to get it done haha
Gave it three coats of the PO15 chassis DTM paint, and sprayed it as to lazy to brush it on.
Il start on the rebuild as soon as i can.
W.olly
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And a bit more done tonight, its all i did. I had to try this idea out i had the other day to get the coils back in.
I got these standard coils and they are about 70mm shorter than the old one. New ones being Linear type and the old are progressive. It may matter but its a lot i thought at 70mm.
If i need to get longer ones atleast i can do it now. and its easy to get new ones in.
This is the stance before the rebuild. So sat high. Not the best side on pic, i am thinking though the new liners coils with compress less so not loose so much height ????
So i used a ratchet strap to pull the arms together to g the ball joints in place.
I got these standard coils and they are about 70mm shorter than the old one. New ones being Linear type and the old are progressive. It may matter but its a lot i thought at 70mm.
If i need to get longer ones atleast i can do it now. and its easy to get new ones in.
This is the stance before the rebuild. So sat high. Not the best side on pic, i am thinking though the new liners coils with compress less so not loose so much height ????
So i used a ratchet strap to pull the arms together to g the ball joints in place.
W.olly
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At last front end is near done. Just wating for another caliper kit and then the callipers can go ack on.
Ill be rebuilding the rear calipers also soon. A mate has borrowwed the g box cross member so while he has that i am cleaning up the selector. free it up a bit more.
Came apart easy enough but for the reverse spring screw, had to get abit of heat on it and slot the head as it rounded off. I am sure i have one lying about to replace it.
That lot is soaking in degreaser untill tomoz as then ill stick it in the blast cabinet.
Yesterday i made a new front cross brake line. and tonight made the D/S line. Its not clipped back yet and needs a tidy but its done.
This is why i made new lines, the dam things never come of nice for me. reason many yeas ago ii bought a flaring tool. its been well used i can tell you.
I got a back of 3/8 24 for 3/16 pipe of ebay and i had the brain line already from many hears ago. Again always save stuff you may never need.
Had few attempts to get these right so they are the same once compressed as the priginal.,
This has been bugging me so i removed it while i did the cross member. Its in good nick so i should keep it hat way and removed it. cleaned back with a coule wire wheels and painted ready to go back in once the engine is put back in.
On removal i snapped a couple of bolts, one being the bean can support.
I will be making and adaptor to go ont he end to join the rad frame support.
Not sur eif i have said but the hubs/discs are back on now, and then i found i forgot to add these shims
guess ill have to remove the hubs again and redo them, no big deal though.
So still waiting for the head bolts to arrive and clutch, should be here next week then i can crack on with the engine, reckon ill do that xmas still though, ill see, sooner the better.. In the mean time ill have this back on the floor soon a si get the cross member back, clean that up and refit.
Ill be rebuilding the rear calipers also soon. A mate has borrowwed the g box cross member so while he has that i am cleaning up the selector. free it up a bit more.
Came apart easy enough but for the reverse spring screw, had to get abit of heat on it and slot the head as it rounded off. I am sure i have one lying about to replace it.
That lot is soaking in degreaser untill tomoz as then ill stick it in the blast cabinet.
Yesterday i made a new front cross brake line. and tonight made the D/S line. Its not clipped back yet and needs a tidy but its done.
This is why i made new lines, the dam things never come of nice for me. reason many yeas ago ii bought a flaring tool. its been well used i can tell you.
I got a back of 3/8 24 for 3/16 pipe of ebay and i had the brain line already from many hears ago. Again always save stuff you may never need.
Had few attempts to get these right so they are the same once compressed as the priginal.,
This has been bugging me so i removed it while i did the cross member. Its in good nick so i should keep it hat way and removed it. cleaned back with a coule wire wheels and painted ready to go back in once the engine is put back in.
On removal i snapped a couple of bolts, one being the bean can support.
I will be making and adaptor to go ont he end to join the rad frame support.
Not sur eif i have said but the hubs/discs are back on now, and then i found i forgot to add these shims
guess ill have to remove the hubs again and redo them, no big deal though.
So still waiting for the head bolts to arrive and clutch, should be here next week then i can crack on with the engine, reckon ill do that xmas still though, ill see, sooner the better.. In the mean time ill have this back on the floor soon a si get the cross member back, clean that up and refit.
