- Thread starter ukracer
- Start date
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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- Leeds, West Yorkshire
I was tired that night, what can I say?
Evolution doesn't work like that:
it's hundreds/thousands of generations of dinosaurs becoming slightly more "chicken like" each generation.
the same way we bred greyhounds from wolves by only picking the skinny puppies with long legs to make more puppies.[/QUOTE]
I lost you all a few pages back....lolSomeone was paying attention.
Nope it can be mutations that make leaps or not as the case may be
Either way there's a line where it's a chicken on one side and not yet a chicken on the other.
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If these are still available I'm interested as have an old RepRap Mendal that uses 2.85mm filament.
This guy hits the nail on the head...
Also, just to be frank about it, you screwed up and should NOT have disassembled the hotend.
What happened was that a retraction pulled molten filament into the cold section of the thermal barrier and when the PLA solidified, you could not overcome the force to push it back into the melt zone via the filament drive. In this case, the easier way of solving the jam would have been to remove the filament drive section, Leave the hotend INTACT and still attached, and force an allen key or other hard metal rod of the correct diameter to push the filament jam down with the hotend preheated no more than 200C for PLA.
Somehow, I get the feeling you guys are running excessive temps which raises the distance in the thermal barrier tube that is hot, resulting in more melted filament and a bigger problem when this all goes wrong. Worse, you may be getting so hot to damage the PTFE.
Also, just to be frank about it, you screwed up and should NOT have disassembled the hotend.
What happened was that a retraction pulled molten filament into the cold section of the thermal barrier and when the PLA solidified, you could not overcome the force to push it back into the melt zone via the filament drive. In this case, the easier way of solving the jam would have been to remove the filament drive section, Leave the hotend INTACT and still attached, and force an allen key or other hard metal rod of the correct diameter to push the filament jam down with the hotend preheated no more than 200C for PLA.
Somehow, I get the feeling you guys are running excessive temps which raises the distance in the thermal barrier tube that is hot, resulting in more melted filament and a bigger problem when this all goes wrong. Worse, you may be getting so hot to damage the PTFE.
Yep....i have been doing some testing till 4am
and thought i had cracked it. I had adjusted the retraction to 3mm and its printing well.Now i need to fine tune the nozzle height. Depending on whats being printed seems to alter adhesion.
I have not fitted PTFE throats back in yet as they only turned up after 2 days of testing with all steel and i did not want to introduce another variable in yet....
Interesting i set the nozzle height up and i am guessing it was too low to start with as it printed this perfectly.
BUT it should have printed with a brim that never came out.
I am pretty certain some of my issues have been retraction related as it always extruded fine when homed. However when it moved to print it stopped after a while........i had noticed the large fan had stopped operating .
I fished around trying to find old settings that worked, which was harder than it seemed. Lol
I am trying to get my head round what settings have altered as these with a brim (after i raised the nozzle height) are a bit strange.
BUT it should have printed with a brim that never came out.
I am pretty certain some of my issues have been retraction related as it always extruded fine when homed. However when it moved to print it stopped after a while........i had noticed the large fan had stopped operating .
I fished around trying to find old settings that worked, which was harder than it seemed. Lol
I am trying to get my head round what settings have altered as these with a brim (after i raised the nozzle height) are a bit strange.
i have been printing my first 7 hour model......it has decided to take 10 hours and i am not sure why BUT my main issue is i seem to be getting a small amount of oozing like those two blobs in the photo.
They are loose and not stuck but they can only have dropped from the hotend.
Its was fine on smaller prints but shows up having been printing for 5 hours....i am concerned one of them will drop of and ruin the print towards the end.
They are loose and not stuck but they can only have dropped from the hotend.
Its was fine on smaller prints but shows up having been printing for 5 hours....i am concerned one of them will drop of and ruin the print towards the end.
It was.....
But i had read up how to ensure the nozzle was tight against the throat and not the Block.
I took it back out and cleaned it all up. Tightened it real tight.
Then this time i gave it a final tweak after it was up to 195. It actually turned at least a quarter of a turn more......so i am hoping that will solve it.
I have a couple more blocks coming next week but at least my adhesion problems seem sorted. It was z axis steppers not aligned. Plus the new hair spray works Brilliant put on wet immediately before starting the print....the old stuff liked to be dry.
I managed a 10 hour print and its not bad to be fair considering the oosing leak. Biggest problem was a foot came of whilst removing the supports...not sure why....
