Anet A8 3D Printer.

[PhillipM]

I mean the Anets were ridiculed for being slapped together and unsafe when they first came out, can't see it being much better since.

 

[ukracer]

My first printer was an Anet A8 with steel frame but I have only purchased Ender's since then.

 

[DAPPH]

Apologies if I've landed in the wrong arena.

I think I've finally got my head back together of sorts after a mild stroke and updated my Prusa i3 , installed Prusa's own slicer . Flashed the printer with the latest printer update update . Spent a while ( several hours ) tuning it in and getting the automatic bed system done . Did a couple of test runs to check I'd got th right temp & print speed right .

Had to bring the old designs I'd put on memory cards some 15 months ago up to date to cope with the latest Prusa updates. then tried to print one in prusa's own brand ABS - T filament .

Cleaned the cold bed with a lint free pad soaked in 96% isopropanol & away I went setting the axis to - 0.68 to get the ideal extrusion profile .

Result the first layers were OK , then when the object got to 2 mm thick they curled up on th thinner edges like a British Rail sandwich , catching on the extruder nozzle and tearing free of the print plate.


Now I know ABS is known to be problematic due to distortion when printing . Does anyone regularly use ABS to print , if so can you give me any tips , for I want my printed parts to be used outside all year round in the garden.

 

[bigegg]

biggest tip: build an enclosure. ABS is VERY susceptible to draughts

 

[Onoff]

Watch the electronics getting too hot in an enclosure. That's why we haven't yet tried anymore ABS.

A lot build enclosures based on the IKEA LACK tables.

@ukracer is your man for ABS.

 

[DAPPH]

I have an enclosure ..a very substantial one at that .

It's had a polycarbonate sliding front added , two 14 watt CFL bulbs on baton holder fittings ( to keep a residual 17 oC warmth & low humidity level inside the enclosure ) .

So far it has not gone above 22 oC when printing .. I have plans for cutting a round hole in the back , printing flanges & housings and attaching a thermostatically controlled 2 " computer fan on the back ....ducting excess heat out of the house through an outside louvered flap via a pond water discharge pipe .

 

[Onoff]

Our copy of the IKEA LACK as during lockdown we couldn't get the real thing in black.

Basically you print the corner connectors / hinges.

 

[Onoff]

I have an enclosure ..a very substantial one at that .
View attachment 292254
It's had a polycarbonate sliding front added
So far it has not gone above 22 oC .. have plans for cutting a round hole in the back printing flanges & housings and attaching a thermostatically controlled 2 " computer fan on the back ....ducting heat out of the house through an outside louvered flap via a pond water discharge pipe .

Print then using ABS slurry on the bed or maybe try 3DLAC spray.

 

[DAPPH]

ABS slurry ..............scrap ABS ( now I've got some ) dissolved in a few spoons of acetone based thinners in a metal topped glass jar ?

My enclosure cost me the price of an 8x4 sheet of new construction ply £ 18
polycarb cut in half, left over from another project approx . £ 9
62 x 65 x 4 mm turbo screws approx £ 4

The Schriber quality shelf insert the printer sits on ( sale item ) £ 3

Total £ 34

 

[bigegg]

ABS slurry ..............scrap ABS ( now I've got some ) dissolved in a few spoons of acetone based thinners in a metal topped glass jar ?

no idea

 

[DAPPH]

Found a formula .. How To Make ABS Juice, Glue, and Slurry | MatterHackers


I seems you can't use it on a plastic coated metal bed plate like mine .... I'll have to have a re read of my Prusa's operating manual

 

[PhillipM]

Looks like you're overextruding a bit there, that won't help, the excess will curl up. Reducing extrusion width and increasing hot end and bed temperatures can help with curling up too.

 

[PhillipM]

So far it has not gone above 22 oC when printing .. I have plans for cutting a round hole in the back , printing flanges & housings and attaching a thermostatically controlled 2 " computer fan on the back ....ducting excess heat out of the house through an outside louvered flap via a pond water discharge pipe .

If you do that then wherever the intake air is coming from will cause a cold draught over your print and negate the point of the enclosure.

 

[ukracer]

no idea

Yes. Pure white abs filament is best.
You can use a light mix or a thicker slurry depending on strength needed.

Try printing with a shield even in an enclosed. I think it's an option in cura not sure about others.

 

[ukracer]

Watch the electronics getting too hot in an enclosure. That's why we haven't yet tried anymore ABS.

A lot build enclosures based on the IKEA LACK tables.

@ukracer is your man for ABS.

I use ABS Pro.
Seems to be a difference. But a mate uses ABS and uses ABS slurry and a printed shield and it seems ok. His ABS is from https://3dprintz.co.uk/

 

[ukracer]

Say no more..lol

 

[Onoff]

Found a formula .. How To Make ABS Juice, Glue, and Slurry | MatterHackers


I seems you can't use it on a plastic coated metal bed plate like mine .... I'll have to have a re read of my Prusa's operating manual

I got my lad a borosilicate glass bed custom cut to size with polished and bevelled edges (not cheap). It's all he prints on now. It clips over the original Anycubic Ultrabase which we wanted to save from any "scrapers" and such like. Tbf PLA prints like a champ straight on the Ultrabase but not ABS.

We use 3DLAC as an adhesion promotor for both PLA and PETG sprayed on the borosilicate glass.

 

[DAPPH]

If you do that then wherever the intake air is coming from will cause a cold draught over your print and negate the point of the enclosure.

It will drag air in at the very top of the case front to an enclosed point 2/3 up the back wall , yes there will be some cooling effect but a simple slide across the hole baffle will allow me to regulate the air flow to a real baby breath pull to remove fumes . It will be a case of suck it and see , maybe even putting in a max & min temp range controller like I have made for my heated propagation UV light beds. I'll post more as things develop

 

[DAPPH]

Thanks for giving me your advice lads .... I'll get some of the ABS pro & have a lot of play time .


Another question. some of you maybe able to help me with . I'm designing a parametric proper butt hinge both sides identical each side some 4 inches wide by 6 inches long & 8 mm thick , for securing the 8x 6 x 1 " thick wooden lids on our numerous home made bird boxes .

As I want to use the printed hinges outside , can anyone give me a clue as to how fast they will deteriorate if I use PTG or Pla outdoors ? Is it likely to be a few weeks , months , years or several years?

 

[tflnemesis]

As I want to use the printed hinges outside , can anyone give me a clue as to how fast they will deteriorate if I use PTG or Pla outdoors ? Is it likely to be a few weeks , months , years or several years?

Uv resistance and water absorption if they are exposed otherwise I would want to go for something that will decompose harmlessly, Pla is supposed to be the most eco friendly but unless its in some really harsh conditions it would last a year or more easily.