Angle welding problems

[DTS]

View attachment 125241 View attachment 125242 Stick welded a fillet joint can be a pain. Especially when you can't see to well and out of position. I just welded some brackets this morning. Couldn't see a lot. Damp rods. And a crud make of rods. Over gunned them to. Worm tracking is sometimes down to incorrect rod angle and speed.

Beam’s a tight fit there..

 

[God mode restorations]

Beam’s a tight fit there..

It was a nightmare to weld. I couldn't get my head high enough. And doing the other side was worse because I am right handed. Need to learn with my left hand to.

 

[backpurge]

Microcuts,?
I must check because the connections does not get hot anywhere.
But they aren't fixed whit wire fittings, only the bare copper thighten on the clamps and on the welder (here ring fittings)
It's a option that i didn't think, i allways put the cable round on my arm (as a real professional welder but unfortunally i'm not)
It's possibible that pulling the cable to turn on the arm, i can damaged the cable.

Now i remember a friend lift my welder on the car by the cables
I'm not to happy now

Wrapping the cable around your arm is unnecessary and a bad habit to get into

 

[Memmeddu]

It was a nightmare to weld. I couldn't get my head high enough. And doing the other side was worse because I am right handed. Need to learn with my left hand to.

I have no problems welding whit the right hand on the two different sides.
I'm learning to weld on the two different sides whitout turn over the workpiece or turn this.
I'm learning yet...
When i'll can do overhead... I'll be finally a "baby welder", more practic yet

 

[Memmeddu]

Wrapping the cable around your arm is unnecessary and a bad habit to get into

Thank you for the tip, but i do this only to prevent accidental move of the holder because the heavy of the cable.
Why not?

 

[Memmeddu]

I doubt you damage the cable by putting it around the arm , one turn is enough it is just to avoid the weight of the cable to balance back and forth under the stinger (lifting the welder with them is another story)

Expecially when you welder is heavy (27kg of welder +12kg of cables)
Tomorrow
i'll make all connections new for safety
I'll clean all the contact surfaces
And i'll try again searching to applicate (wich is the best term?) all your tips
Thank you at all
I hope to can show you tomorrow something or tell you something of new

 

[olek]

Tomorrow sunday, should be a good day for welding (after the mass )

(I feel good as offered me 2 nice curtains so I can use my cubitron disks and other grinders without putting dirt everywhere)

 

[olek]

Wrapping the cable around your arm is unnecessary and a bad habit to get into

Why bad habit ? for the current passing or risk to fall trapped ... I have a hook at mid level where I can put my lead so there is not so much weight.

But if not passing around the wrist, I need to hold the cable with the other hand (I do that sometime indeed)

 

[olek]

I have no problems welding whit the right hand on the two different sides.we see the puddle, it
I'm learning to weld on the two different sides whitout turn over the workpiece or turn this.
I'm learning yet...
When i'll can do overhead... I'll be finally a "baby welder", more practic yet

Once you know what you want to see, the left or right hand , as going both directions, is way less of a problem

Videos are really cool as with the ones that are well done, we see details of the puddle, the edges, the washing.

I suggest that those are the ones when the camera is behind a fixed shade lens (some videos look really foggy and I suspect a cheap LCD used)

 

[backpurge]

Why bad habit ? for the current passing or risk to fall trapped ... I have a hook at mid level where I can put my lead so there is not so much weight.

But if not passing around the wrist, I need to hold the cable with the other hand (I do that sometime indeed)

It restricts movement and also you are holding more weight than if you just let the loose cable fall to the floor

 

[Memmeddu]

Once you know what you want to see, the left or right hand , as going both directions, is way less of a problem

Videos are really cool as with the ones that are well done, we see details of the puddle, the edges, the washing.

I suggest that those are the ones when the camera is behind a fixed shade lens (some videos look really foggy and I suspect a cheap LCD used)

I know what i must see, but i also know what i can not.
Unfortunally i have only a fixed shade Welding elmett and i'm not sure to want a chinesum 40€ auto darkening mask (because i can't spent to much)
The problem i think it's because i can't weld everyday.
Our electric contract is only for 3kw my neigbour have 6kw and my welder is there and i work there, and he is happy to give me "free" energy.
So often i can see the metal go where must, but some times i only see a red puddle (only slag) whit a little yellow point but to little to see as well.
Anyway on flat the slag get up, but lap joint, fillet joint are often a problem, because i see the puddle go behind the rod and is there in that moment that i commit a mistake.
I need more practic yet, fortunally once i know how move it's difficult to forget him.
When i start to welding i used an homemade mot welder that works well but it's difficult to mantein a good arc (only 17 volt close circuit)
Ones i lerned how make a good bead on flat i never really use the chipping hammer to clean a flat welding, only little hit not to far of the bead just to let fell the slag.
I hope that this is as for fillet and for all the positions.
Just likes ride a bike

 

[olek]

I know what i must see, but i also know what i can not.
Unfortunally i have only a fixed shade Welding elmett and i'm not sure to want a chinesum 40€ auto darkening mask (because i can't spent to much)
The problem i think it's because i can't weld everyday.
Our electric contract is only for 3kw my neigbour have 6kw and my welder is there and i work there, and he is happy to give me "free" energy.
So often i can see the metal go where must, but some times i only see a red puddle (only slag) whit a little yellow point but to little to see as well.
Anyway on flat the slag get up, but lap joint, fillet joint are often a problem, because i see the puddle go behind the rod and is there in that moment that i commit a mistake.
I need more practic yet, fortunally once i know how move it's difficult to forget him.
When i start to welding i used an homemade mot welder that works well but it's difficult to mantein a good arc (only 17 volt close circuit)
Ones i lerned how make a good bead on flat i never really use the chipping hammer to clean a flat welding, only little hit not to far of the bead just to let fell the slag.
I hope that this is as for fillet and for all the positions.
Just likes ride a bike

If it can reassure you, fixed shade masks give cleaner view generally than the LCD (unless you buy a 600€ model may be and even them I recently see comments from an owner on a high end LCD saying his fixed shade is way clearer.

May be change the lens, if you can find an Aulektro gold plated, (the one I have is the largest 110 x 90 and the cost is 6,5 € (Aulektro is German brand, may be not so difficult to find one)

I baught mine 6,5 € there (in England strangedly : http://www.soudeurfrancais.fr/?page=gold_lens - gold is only reflecting almost all infra red so temperature stay quiet , anyway I like those lens.

with 6013 in my experience we see only the edge of the puddle, it is covered with slag . I suppose that if you see the puddle clear, what you see are waves of slag and you are way too hot . (7018 is easy because half less slag, you feel as if you see the puddle without nothing on it, but there is slag I think but thin and transparent enough.

if you see the puddle pass the rod so you know what to avoid (better stop, grind and restart immediately I think)


Fixed shade is annoying when beginning but be it with a noodle motion or with a flip flap, starting with those masks is way easier I thought
Regards

 

[olek]

It restricts movement and also you are holding more weight than if you just let the loose cable fall to the floor

I cannot get that habit, with the 25mm2 cable there is still a perceived ballast (indeed I am not supposed to move so much when welding, so the cable can stay quiet

May be that cable vertical weight can help stabilizing the hand (did not thought of that ) is it ?

 

[olek]

I know what i must see, but i also know what i can not.
Unfortunally i have only a fixed shade Welding elmett and i'm not sure to want a chinesum 40€ auto darkening mask (because i can't spent to much)
The problem i think it's because i can't weld everyday.
Our electric contract is only for 3kw my neigbour have 6kw and my welder is there and i work there, and he is happy to give me "free" energy.
So often i can see the metal go where must, but some times i only see a red puddle (only slag) whit a little yellow point but to little to see as well.
Anyway on flat the slag get up, but lap joint, fillet joint are often a problem, because i see the puddle go behind the rod and is there in that moment that i commit a mistake.
I need more practic yet, fortunally once i know how move it's difficult to forget him.
When i start to welding i used an homemade mot welder that works well but it's difficult to mantein a good arc (only 17 volt close circuit)
Ones i lerned how make a good bead on flat i never really use the chipping hammer to clean a flat welding, only little hit not to far of the bead just to let fell the slag.
I hope that this is as for fillet and for all the positions.
Just likes ride a bike

The basic motion to weld is to simply lower the hand while keeping the angle . This make a very even deposit, but indeed depending of the angle you use, you will run more or less fast. (depose more or less metal)
If as you said you use a 45 angle you need to advance the stinger toward the start side of the weld, while lowering, which is difficult
30 degree should be OK I think, a very quiet hand , same angle just keeping the arc tight, I think it is the best training. (what do other think ?)

 

[backpurge]

I cannot get that habit, with the 25mm2 cable there is still a perceived ballast (indeed I am not supposed to move so much when welding, so the cable can stay quiet

May be that cable vertical weight can help stabilizing the hand (did not thought of that ) is it ?

Sorry but really cannot understand how the weight of the cable would cause a problem, if you are stood on the ground you maybe have 1.5 metres of cable to support. I can understand it if you are working a further distance from the ground, in that case you would anchor the cable to something to take the weight. Out of interest how many hands do you use to hold the electrode holder

 

[olek]

Sorry but really cannot understand how the weight of the cable would cause a problem, if you are stood on the ground you maybe have 1.5 metres of cable to support. I can understand it if you are working a further distance from the ground, in that case you would anchor the cable to something to take the weight. Out of interest how many hands do you use to hold the electrode holder

I hold lightly the stinger , I will try that . In the end we have the same weight with the cable passing around the wrist or down on the floor.

Very often the cable is just laying on a hook not far and the weight is no concern. or in my left hand. Just not used to that little supplement of weight du to the way I stand ( like when playing piano !!! very relaxed. )

 

[olek]

I know what i must see, but i also know what i can not.
Unfortunally i have only a fixed shade Welding elmett and i'm not sure to want a chinesum 40€ auto darkening mask (because i can't spent to much)

http://www.soudeurfrancais.fr/index.php?page=country_form_fr&i=aulektro_90_110&cap_id=&pic= see they deliver in Italy yet

 

[olek]

I try also this.
I put my welder on 200A
3.25 6013
And something change, slags fell whitout chipping hammer but i left holes on all the joint.
This is my way to do...
I can't believe that i can't, because on flat the slag get up and fell whitout chipping hammer or whit the finger (allways wear gloves)
Sometimes they change color to beatifull Red purple and blue tones.

When slag peel we feel nice . But I was explained that it also can be when the amps where too high (slag begin to peel when amps are right and pursue with more amps)
In that cas indeed the slag peels, but there are undercut and defects due to too much energy used.

3,25 run on a flat piece at 160A (or at the max allowed on the box), and stop at 25 mm from the end of the rod. Look at the rod it should be red to orange hot (flux and all) the rod up to electrode holder that mean you are really having 155 160A
If the rod get hot at half lenght you have more
You also may be capable of holding a 4mm long arc

The trick come from another forum (and is suited for 7018, I will try it myself with 6013 and 7018 and will let you know) the goal is to ascertain the real amperage of your welder.

It is possible that.when it state 200A he gives you only 160A welders are not precise. You may be capable of checking with amperemeter pliers around one of the leads, too.

WHen I raise amps I add 5 or 10 if I see I am not far.

 

[Memmeddu]

This morning I checked the connections, i have found a heated zone on the electrode lead where connect to the welder.
I cleaned all the fittings and the ground clamp and also the electrode holder.
They were not to dirty only little bit dirty whitout oxydation (i did not hope this because here is common humid and warm wheather).
I broke a bolt connection on my welder
Now i re-tap him but tomorrow i change the bolts an screws.
Not in this month but i hope to change soon from bolted connections to dinse connector

Also to have the welding leads ready for the alternator welder project now in standby waiting an 12hp engine maybe diesel.

This afternoon i repair the welder and i try to made an good fillet joint

 

[olek]

You are right , you may try to work all along the power line if you need to put 200A on a 1/8 rod
BTW I thought that we cut with a metal saw a 25mm long of copper cable to reinstall a clean connection (the copper can be corroded inside the wire)
If you have some WD40 may be it can help to make better contact on the welder (?)

Try that trick at the max amps rated for your 1/8 6013 and see if it goes glowing red/orange near its end. (before its end, when a 25 mm portion is left) I did not try that trick myself (will tomorrow) but I am certain it is a good mean to ascertain the power of the welder.
I asked what results to expect with 6013 and 150-160A

I dont know if good advice but if you order Dinse connector in China (ALiexpress, often no shipment cost for small light things, I did get welding gauges for instance -size of fillet/leg undercut .. about 8 times less than if ordered in France)

See https://fr.aliexpress.com/wholesale...SB_20171203065028&SearchText=dinse+connector+

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS...-1279-4e2e-a4c7-6f5c06d8aba5&rmStoreLevelAB=3


with 3 weeks delivery more or less

BTW I did read on the english site that the gold plated Aulektro provide a better true color rendering
"Top Quality - Made in Germany (Aulektro)

A standard welding filter lens is coated with
a thin layer of gold which reflects back 90%
of the welding heat compared to only 4% with
a standard lens. The lens also allows you to
see the weld in it's true colours."

Not sure it is the truth I do not see red in mine I think but I will try to check that side of things better.
http://www.ukwelder.com/shop2/shop_index.php?page=gold_lens

Non ashamed advertizing for those lenses !!! You need to use a protective polycarbonate above and under them to avoid scratches or in case they break.