Apple Scratter

[Onoff]

Taking a rest from cat tree houses.

Enough "teeth" do we think?

https://flic.kr/p/2qe3H4u

https://flic.kr/p/2qe2262

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Not sure those teeth will survive...but then again apples are quite soft I guess. Maybe you could you add blocks of something on the inside to stop them twisting off?

Hang on...is the inside getting cement ?..In which case ignore my comment!

 

[Onoff]

Not sure those teeth will survive...but then again apples are quite soft I guess. Maybe you could you add blocks of something on the inside to stop them twisting off?

Well it's going to be filled with concrete...

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Well it's going to be filled with concrete...

I remembered right after posting

Could you put the screws into dowels or long Rawl plugs?...that way they'd be replaceable after the cement goes in.

 

[Onoff]

I remembered right after posting

Could you put the screws into dowels or long Rawl plugs?...that way they'd be replaceable after the cement goes in.

That's a good idea. I could but to tbh can't be bothered taking them all out again! I've loads of these tube offcuts so will just make another.

 

[gaz1]

i would make an arrow and then you can use screws inbetween in arrows so you aim to make mash of it

as goes for concrete you might have issuse due to balancing its the same with plywood and dont forget concrete shrinks when its set

if you are thinking of concrete just use normal river sand and cement

from the concrete lathe/milling machine

concrete lathe, concrete milling machine and others

ive been around youtube often and have noticed a few builds out there concrete lathe https://www.engineeringforchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/multimachine-concrete-lathe-ver-1-10.pdf milling machine...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

concrete bench miller

http://opensourcemachinetools.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/romig-a-small-bench-miller.pdf

 

[gaz1]

you want all of those screws out and replace with full thread all the way down the screw and then you just want the head to be outside of the drum so it acts like a tooth scraping at the apple in chucks just like a wood planer does

 

[Onoff]

you want all of those screws out and replace with full thread all the way down the screw and then you just want the head to be outside of the drum so it acts like a tooth scraping at the apple in chucks just like a wood planer does

I was intending to pour the concrete, let it set, then cut the countersunk heads off.

 

[gaz1]

no leave them on as they act like blades or in lathe terms carbide inserts

 

[Onoff]

no leave them on as they act like blades or in lathe terms carbide inserts

But only if they're up against the tube?

 

[gaz1]

there all the same you use the head like a blade the same with a planer instead that uses a blade or in the shellix case it uses lathe hss inserts instead

the blade / screws do the shearing of the apples into mush in your case instead of in the wood case with blades its wood shavings the hss inserts allow the blade to spin faster

 

[Onoff]

Found some shorter screws that are A4 to boot. Glued one end cap on. Once set I'll fill with concrete. Won't matter if it shrinks a bit. Still got to cross drill the shaft and put some rods in to stop it turning (in the concrete):

https://flic.kr/p/2qehQAm

https://flic.kr/p/2qehgwe

 

[gaz1]

if you pull that bar out and screw in screws or stainless bolts along its length in 4 places they will lock that bar to the concrete when its set

 

[Onoff]

if you pull that bar out and screw in screws along its length in 4 places they will lock that bar to the concrete when its set

I'm going to, yes.

 

[Kram]

Before you fill with concrete I'd suggest giving it a good coat in epoxy to seal it. Perhaps epoxy fibreglass over the screws. I wouldnt want concrete leaching into cider..

I would instead use stainless tube and drill holes for pins to be welded in.

 

[Onoff]

I would instead use stainless tube and drill holes for pins to be welded in.

So would I but I haven't got any stainless tube.

 

[Kram]

Would 50mm stainless work? I'll be able to get a few lengths next week.

Had a thought, aluminium is generally considered food safe. I have a load of those laughing gas bottles looking for a project. I seem to remember they are quite thick wall and suitable to be tapped for M4 or M5 threads.

 

[Onoff]

Would 50mm stainless work? I'll be able to get a few lengths next week.

Had a thought, aluminium is generally considered food safe. I have a load of those laughing gas bottles looking for a project. I seem to remember they are quite thick wall and suitable to be tapped for M4 or M5 threads.

50mm dia too small think.

I guess a CO2 bottle like I gave you would be similarly thick walled?

 

[Kram]

50mm could work, may even be quicker as it will be taking a smaller bite for each revolution.

Alu bottles are 2.5 or 3" size.

Co2 will be steel and will rust, so not ideal for wet and acidic foods.

 

[gaz1]

So would I but I haven't got any stainless tube.

1mm sheet will do the same and fold it like copper roof folding method will do the trick