Atlas 10F lathe value

[Flowboy]

Thanks, that's great folks, I assumed that lathes would normally have none to only the faintest backlash but clearly some is acceptable. I have been caught out by it causing the cutter to dig in unexpectedly until I learned to take it up (still ocassionaly forget tho' - it's not ingrained in me yet!)
Measuring my compound slide screw it's definitely close to 1/2" dia. not 3/4". Were there different slides & screws model -wise?
I like the idea of trying the delrin /acetal mod. I have manipulated plastics for various jobs but not seen this type of use. I doubt I've used the lathe more than 2 or 3 times a year so even with more regular use I won't be wearing it out very quickly.
I actually think the lead screw is ok - but thanks for the offer Henrik -
Also I need to set the dials on the slides as they've always been loose - I thought they required precise setting up but looking at shafts they just clamp up where you want. They are also quite small to read! Need a brighter o/h lamp methinks. Reading glasses... Going out to shed now

 

[brightspark]

First thing I was taught was when backing it back a little wind it until it's moving away from the work piece, then wind it back in to the place you now want it. If you don't pull it back and have the screw pushing it in the right direction again you'll end up with a mess.

and- take the reading on the dial before u pull out

 

[Flowboy]

and- take the reading on the dial before u pull out

Yes will have to get into some good habits when it's up & running again.
Absolutely fffreezin' in the shed today. Compound rest slide screw is def. 1/2" dia. 10tpi, realised other comments re. 3/4" dia. - refers to lead screw. Also I've been told the cross slide screw on the saddle is different on some 10 type Atlas lathes so e.g. 10D & 10F screws are not compatible. Wear wise my cross slide screw looks ok or at least better than the c.r. screw.
Got the tail stock base off - just a firm press fit & may well shim this - it will suffice for the moment. Re- aligned pulleys' on the headstock which meant I could fit the guards correctly. Had a good look for a serial number. No sign at all.
When I engage the back gears they just lock the headstock.
When I slide a length of round bar / rod into the chuck there is a slight step near the back - likely from wear? Anybody re-ground their own chucks?

 

[Bill Edwards]

and- take the reading on the dial before u pull out

Ah yes, a lesson you need to suddenly pick up quick after learning with a DRO!

 

[penfold]

When I engage the back gears they just lock the headstock.
When I slide a length of round bar / rod into the chuck there is a slight step near the back - likely from wear? Anybody re-ground their own chucks?

Unless the back gear lock is connected/interlocked with the the pulley lock then it will lock up; as PDG says it will need unlocking before you can do anything. It's unlikely the jaws will wear into a step, more likely to be the bar catching on the end of the spindle. I suppose someone might have ground the jaws so they act like a stop for production purposes, but it's a bit drastic and probably harder to do than making an adjustable stop to go inside the spindle bore.

 

[Flowboy]

Thanks PDG. & penfold, I should look at the manual to get a better grasp of things. Can't figure out what a DRO is Bill!

 

[Bill Edwards]

Sorry, digital read out.

 

[addjunkie]

Digital read out is great, a fantastic accessorie. But it can make you lazy. Great on an old machine.

 

[Gritineye]

There is a pin that connects the bull gear to the spindle pulleys, pull it out to free the spindle and the back gears will work.

 

[DAPPH]

Thanks, that's great folks, I assumed that lathes would normally have none to only the faintest backlash but clearly some is acceptable. I have been caught out by it causing the cutter to dig in unexpectedly until I learned to take it up (still ocassionaly forget tho' - it's not ingrained in me yet!)
Measuring my compound slide screw it's definitely close to 1/2" dia. not 3/4". Were there different slides & screws model -wise?
I like the idea of trying the delrin /acetal mod. I have manipulated plastics for various jobs but not seen this type of use. I doubt I've used the lathe more than 2 or 3 times a year so even with more regular use I won't be wearing it out very quickly.
I actually think the lead screw is ok - but thanks for the offer Henrik -
Also I need to set the dials on the slides as they've always been loose - I thought they required precise setting up but looking at shafts they just clamp up where you want. They are also quite small to read! Need a brighter o/h lamp methinks. Reading glasses... Going out to shed now

One thing that has been bugging me WRT the Acetal / Delrin heat forming process since I discovered it elsewhere is that the " nuts tend to still be a tad too tight on the screw.

Earlier this afternoon it struck me that I may have an answer to that problem .
.
If a thread /screw is cleansed , washed in meths and scrubbed with meths to get rid of all th oil Then dried off in warmth , would it be worthwhile to spray the shaft with a rattle can that holds stove paint ? Mask the part that will not be used as the forming section to keep it clean , thus keeping it at the smidgen smaller diameter size ?
Then a couple of days later when it's dry ( or even gently heat cured ) give it a quick silicone spray for lubrication purposes , then see if you can heat form the nut on the thread & remove it .

My thoughts are that the stove paint should adhere to the super clean thread form and give it a slight over size , so that when the hot formed plastic cools it will grip on the dried silicone sprayed paint. I'm thinking that this over size will allow a tight removal but once the thread is stripped of paint with a paint stripper it might just have that bit of clearance to allow a better movement rather than a really tight one.

Your thought's will be / are appreciated on this one .

 

[DAPPH]

Yes will have to get into some good habits when it's up & running again.
Absolutely fffreezin' in the shed today. Compound rest slide screw is def. 1/2" dia. 10tpi, realised other comments re. 3/4" dia. - refers to lead screw. Also I've been told the cross slide screw on the saddle is different on some 10 type Atlas lathes so e.g. 10D & 10F screws are not compatible. Wear wise my cross slide screw looks ok or at least better than the c.r. screw.
Got the tail stock base off - just a firm press fit & may well shim this - it will suffice for the moment. Re- aligned pulleys' on the headstock which meant I could fit the guards correctly. Had a good look for a serial number. No sign at all.
When I engage the back gears they just lock the headstock.
When I slide a length of round bar / rod into the chuck there is a slight step near the back - likely from wear? Anybody re-ground their own chucks?

Flowboy & others who may be interested ..... From my MOLO , table 13 , page 50
Acme Standard thread dimensions :-

10 TPI , pitch 1/10 , depth of thread 0.0600 " , double depth 0.1200 " , width at of top of thread 0.0371" , width of spaces at bottom of thread 0.0319 .

Note ;- Minor diameter equals Major diameter minus double depth of thread .

 

[Henrik]

I have a lead screw knocking about somewhere, but I can't remember what condition it is in.

If I can find it I'll take some pics and if you want it you can have it for the delivery cost.

Hopefully get a chance to look for it this weekend

Here are some snaps.

It looks rusty etc, but I'm pretty sure it'd clean up nicely in an electrolysis tank. The screw isn't totally worn out, but you can see wear for the portion closest to the chuck (see photo).

 

[Flowboy]

Hi Henrik - what length is it? Anyway, as I said above, I think my lead screw is ok, at least no worse than your pics, it's my compound rest screw that's very worn in comparison but thanks for the offer - at least you know where it is now!

Usefully I just found an Atlas Manual advertised on "carandclassic.co.uk" - Atlas 10" lathe parts. The guy also has some headstock gear covers, 2 change wheels & other cogs, most of an F apron, a lead screw (from a D model), + other odds & sods - think he said that he might have some collets (not advertised). Might be useful for someomeone

 

[Pete.]

That screw will clean up just nice. With that amount of wear at the chuck end though I'd expect the bed to be worn too.

 

[Flowboy]

Anyone have suggestions as to suppliers of imperial Acme threaded rod here? I've only done a quick search but came up with sellers in the US, not the UK. This is for the 1/2" compound rest screw.

 

[Flathead_Dave]

Anyone have suggestions as to suppliers of imperial Acme threaded rod here? I've only done a quick search but came up with sellers in the US, not the UK. This is for the 1/2" compound rest screw.

http://www.abssac.co.uk/p/ACME+Leadscrew/101/#.VnbJHk-Rlkg

 

[Pete.]

No but remember that cross-slide screws are usually LH thread but compound screws are usually RH.

 

[penfold]

abssac.co.uk
kingston-engineering.co.uk
hrs-ccl.co.uk

 

[DAPPH]

Google this :- precision threaded acme rod + UK
Most of the places given will make one for you .


Happy Crimbo
Dave

 

[Flowboy]

Great, thanks team! I found HRS are local to me so am waiting for their reply.