Battery Adapter file exchange.

[Onoff]

I can take the 20/40 battery pack out of its case and take photos of how it’s wired up if that will be of any help. I’ve no idea how it switches from 20 to 40

I'm pretty sure the 40V tools use B1 & B2 in series. The 20V tools use B1 and B2 in parallel. In effect there's two 20V batteries in the 20/40V ones.

 

[Onoff]

Just playing with some 9x1 copper strip for the blades:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhfPc8

https://flic.kr/p/2qhgiTs

https://flic.kr/p/2qh9ZgH

More mulling required.

Half thinking a "pocket" filled with 2-part epoxy to keep the blades in place...

 

[mike 109444]

FYI

 

[Onoff]

FYI

View attachment 465839

Wot I said

 

[mike 109444]

Also FYI the 40v set up works well on my 32.4 v drill (nicad pack worn out). Guess would work for some of those big 36v Bosch drills, maybe.

 

[Onoff]

Also FYI the 40v set up works well on my 32.4 v drill (nicad pack worn out). Guess would work for some of those big 36v Bosch drills, maybe.

My guess is it will as the likes of Ferrex & Parkside quote 40V which is I believe the peak power rating of what other makes say Makita would term 36V. Damn close in the grand scope of things to 32.4V.

 

[Onoff]

DeWalt 18V. Anyone know what +, - & the T connections are on these 3 terminals? I haven't got any DeWalt 18V tools so can't look on them.

I reckon the green wire is the positive:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhjqny

 

[ukracer]

DeWalt 18V. Anyone know what +, - & the T connections are on these 3 terminals? I haven't got any DeWalt 18V tools so can't look on them.

I reckon the green wire is the positive:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhjqny

I will take a battery apart later when I get home..

 

[ukracer]

It's a doddle. Very simply the white wire Connects to the copper connector) then goes to the positive of a string of cells.

The opposite negative side of the string of cells goes to the copper connector rear of the battery.

Obviously the cell sticking up to the connectors sits positive at the bottom with negative at the top.

 

[Onoff]

Some more done last night. Another test print, the battery tower section with a chunk taken out to facilitate getting battery connectors in. The blue and pink card to represent 9x1 copper strip I've lots of:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhuMyy

The "strips" bent and pushed in:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhuN27

Bottom view:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhwuho

Assembled:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhwuho

The one existing wire should reach the relevant terminal to solder on.

More another day!

 

[Onoff]

Whoops, last photo the wrong one. So, assembled:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhuPgw

 

[mike 109444]

Don't forget if the "copper" will go cruddy over time unless protected. Maybe before installing run a layer of solder over the exposed "blades" that will contact the battery terminals.

 

[Onoff]

Don't forget if the "copper" will go cruddy over time unless protected. Maybe before installing run a layer of solder over the exposed "blades" that will contact the battery terminals.

Good shout. I very, (very), roughly"folded" a bit of the copper strip over a pair of small pliers. Even without a coat of solder on the copper is too thick to push through the slots in the plastic. That and it's bend like a dog's hind leg:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhJ377

These copper "U's" will likely get a screw or something incorporated to retain them in place.

Having a rest from this. I was going to switch the pc on this morning but the graphics issues are making me dread it. Going to look a bit later if we can take a graphics card out of one of my lad's old ones to give mine a bit of a leg up.

One interesting thing stems from the fact we converted a hand tracing of the battery enclosure to a DXF way back. Extruding has faithfully reproduced my less than perfect pen line where I drew around the battery box. Thus that bit is shall we say a little "organic". It doesn't in anyway affect the function. I won't be going back to try and sort it either!

https://flic.kr/p/2qhKnVq

Better side:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhJSA2

 

[Agroshield]

Even without a coat of solder on the copper is too thick to push through the slots in the plastic. That and it's bend like a dog's hind leg:

AIUI, when you need a tough, springy copper, Beryllium copper is the thing to use. The dust is bad for you when machining, but other than that it might work better. Plenty of eBay sellers.

Could you consider tin, nickel or even silver plating the contacts to stop the green appearing. One of those could be more robust than relatively soft solder.

Could you print a part/clip that goes over the top of the U's and butts up against the underside of the overhanging semi-circle to retain the pieces? Put some barbed ends on it and corresponding recesses in the main part.

 

[prepman]

I think it would be dangerous if I had any battery adaptors. I've got Makita batteries & the price of the tools definitely slows down my rate of tool acquisition. If I could use them on other brands as well...

My DeWalt multi-tool has an adaptor for the 18V Makita battery. I didn't like the Makita blade retention mechanism and reurned it. Works fine. Purchased via eBay.

 

[Onoff]

Taken the Sapphire Radeon HD6770 from my Linux pc and shoved in the AutoCAD pc.

Fingers crossed!

 

[Onoff]

Better graphics card than before at least!

To aceiv

It's a doddle. Very simply the white wire Connects to the copper connector) then goes to the positive of a string of cells.

The opposite negative side of the string of cells goes to the copper connector rear of the battery.

Obviously the cell sticking up to the connectors sits positive at the bottom with negative at the top.

View attachment 465876

Thanks. Where you have a white, I have a green wire to positive.

The tool connector comes off the first cell easy enough:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhGZuE

I've bent it down a tad and will solder a negative lead in. To make space for the bent down tab and wire, I've introduced a channel into the tower on the model:

https://flic.kr/p/2qhH39H

 

[Onoff]

Even with the new graphics card AutoCAD is "hangy"

Ready for another test print. I think we'll go for a full print this time of the entire adapter. As to what's been changed:

- blade slot width uppped from 1mm to 1.25mm
- the six holes for attaching to the original DeWalt top half, made 3.75mm dia for heated inserts to go in. Will mean ditching the original screws for M3 ones
- a radiussed hole for the negative wire
- a hole through the blade supporting blocks for heated inserts in case I want to use ring crimps
- a hole above the blade slots into the tower in case I want to use a heated inset to affix a blade retaining block

https://flic.kr/p/2qhXDcs

https://flic.kr/p/2qhXDcn

 

[Onoff]

NB: The "nipples" on the back end / underside in the last image, unnecessary but just my little nod to aesthetics & making things as awkward as I can!

 

[Onoff]

@ukracer would you like me to send you the latest .STL of this?

Edit: Just emailed it. You can view with any STL viewer. Thought you might want to have a play and print. Or wait until my lad has. Nearly there I reckon.