Bedford TK

awemawson · Nov 20, 2016

Kim, I think the tool he illustrated IS a slotted bar, the Mole grips are just for location.

KimB · Nov 20, 2016

awemawson said:
Kim, I think the tool he illustrated IS a slotted bar, the Mole grips are just for location.

Oops, missed that picture haha.

mylesdw · Nov 20, 2016

This is a better shot of the new sheet metalwork for mounting the fan

and the fan in-situ

unfortunately, due to a cock-up on the measuring front my lovely new fan shroud did not fit into the gap between the radiator and the water pump!

I made some spacers and remounted the fan on the inside of the guard which help but still not enough clearance to get a new vee-belt on if needed so I ended up cutting another 20mm slice from the front of the shroud which meant I had to make new mounting brackets.

After a coat of primer

and some spray-can black it looked like this

and went into place with decent enough clearance.

I also confirmed that you can remove the whole radiator and fan assembly downwards between the cross-member and the engine; useful to know.

mylesdw · Nov 20, 2016

Made a small support bracket for the bottom radiator pipe and then fitted the pipe with new hoses and camps

james butler · Nov 21, 2016

with your electric fan do you need to connect it up to a speed controller and somehow fit a temperature sensor?
i know they can be quite pricey compared to the cost of just the fan.

knighty · Nov 21, 2016

re: prop shaft sliding joint....

does the prop have a bearing in the middle ?

if so (all the ones I've seen do?) then you want the sliding joint at the back, so let the prop stretch/shorten as the back axle moves up/down on the suspension :-o

mylesdw · Nov 21, 2016

james butler said:
with your electric fan do you need to connect it up to a speed controller and somehow fit a temperature sensor?
i know they can be quite pricey compared to the cost of just the fan.

I have a fan switch on order and I will need to mount it in the top radiator hose (more to follow I hope). It's a simple on/off style thermostat and I will drive the fan via a relay. Variable speed is nice from a noise point of view but I will keep it simple to start with.

mylesdw · Nov 21, 2016

knighty said:
re: prop shaft sliding joint....

does the prop have a bearing in the middle ?

if so (all the ones I've seen do?) then you want the sliding joint at the back, so let the prop stretch/shorten as the back axle moves up/down on the suspension :-o

There are two props (and a centre bearing as you describe). The front prop has no sliding section whereas the back one does. The back one is at least twice as long as the front so even I can't get them mixed up!

james butler · Nov 21, 2016

mylesdw said:
I have a fan switch on order and I will need to mount it in the top radiator hose (more to follow I hope). It's a simple on/off style thermostat and I will drive the fan via a relay. Variable speed is nice from a noise point of view but I will keep it simple to start with.

do you have a link to the sensor? im thinking of doing the electric fan conversion on my 260z

mylesdw · Nov 21, 2016

These people have a good range of switches, different configurations and temperature ranges together with fancier computer controlled ones

www.carbuildersolutions.com

mylesdw · Nov 21, 2016

Sometime ago I bought this on eBay

It's a Chinese knock-off of a Volvo Penta 24V part and has a build in regulator.

I needed to lengthen the bracket by 8mm or so to align the belts

and turn up a spacer on the lathe

The slotted bracket just needed straightening slightly

Anyone like to confirm the connections?

I'm fairly happy with B+ and B- and I'm guessing the D+ would be 24V from the key-switch and W would be 24V via a warning light.

Cobbler · Nov 21, 2016

The "w" connection is to run a rev counter off the alternator. If you google running a rev counter from the alternator it explains how to do it. It's a direct connection to the coils so you get an ac pulse.

Nice rebuild by the way.

knighty · Nov 21, 2016

mylesdw said:
There are two props (and a centre bearing as you describe). The front prop has no sliding section whereas the back one does. The back one is at least twice as long as the front so even I can't get them mixed up!

sorry, I missed that it's 4wd (was a bit late to the thread so skipped some)

for the temp sensor for the fan, it should go on the bottom hose not the top

water coming out of the engine should always be hot (90'C ish)

Robotstar5 · Nov 21, 2016

james butler said:
do you have a link to the sensor? im thinking of doing the electric fan conversion on my 260z

These are quite good, probably find them cheaper elsewhere though.

Woody.v8 · Nov 21, 2016

knighty said:
sorry, I missed that it's 4wd (was a bit late to the thread so skipped some)

for the temp sensor for the fan, it should go on the bottom hose not the top

water coming out of the engine should always be hot (90'C ish)

It's 2wd, it just has two separate props instead of one long one.

Cobbler · Nov 21, 2016

Cobbler said:
The "w" connection is to run a rev counter off the alternator. If you google running a rev counter from the alternator it explains how to do it. It's a direct connection to the coils so you get an ac pulse.

Nice rebuild by the way.

Added some further info for you, D+ is to the warning light , then to the ignition feed. This on a lot of alternators is an integral part of the charging system, it uses the small current through the bulb to excite the coils to start charging. Especially on a new alternator when there is little or no residual magnetism. On some systems, if the bulb goes it stops working.

mylesdw · Nov 21, 2016

That makes things clear. I had a doubt in my mind because I had never seen an alternator where the supply to the field windings and the warning light circuit were separate. Also, the small cover over the W terminal suggested that it was optional. Thanks folks.

octo0072000 · Nov 21, 2016

mylesdw said:
I have a fan switch on order and I will need to mount it in the top radiator hose (more to follow I hope). It's a simple on/off style thermostat and I will drive the fan via a relay. Variable speed is nice from a noise point of view but I will keep it simple to start with.

also add a override switch in the cab as well

mylesdw · Nov 28, 2016

Painted the tank

and a few odd brackets

mylesdw · Nov 28, 2016

knighty said:
for the temp sensor for the fan, it should go on the bottom hose not the top

water coming out of the engine should always be hot (90'C ish)

I don't think it matters too much where the sensor goes as long as its temperature range is suitable for where it is mounted.

Bedford TK

Forum Supporter

Moderator

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Codger bodger

Member

Casanunda

Blue gluer

Codger bodger

Member

Member

Member

Member