- Thread starter mylesdw
- Start date
George Erasmus
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- Lost in the Sahara
Seeing the guys are now using these to heat their sheds as well
mylesdw
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Can anyone offer thoughts about door fitting for cars and trucks? I'd like to get the passenger door to fit better - it is too far out at the top but the area below the window is OK so I'm guessing adjusting the hinges is not the answer. Can you just bend it in some way?
Thx.
Thx.
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
You can usually bend them into shape with your knee, but I was a lot younger and fitter when I last worked on a TK.
Open the door, lower the window (very important) put your knee against the door lock area (or hinge) and pull the frame towards you in the direction needed. You will obviously need steps or some form of platform to get access.
If it doesn’t want to play ball, use a length of wood as a lever through the window aperture and a couple of blocks of wood to achieve the same effect. You will need to over bend and let it spring back into the shape you want so small adjustments are best.
I am assuming the door isn’t contacting the door seals which is the normal issue.
If it is contacting the seal, you will need to remove the seal and see if the issue is the door or the door frame.
I think I would start with a hammer and block of wood before getting the porta power out, but depends what the issue is.
I would completly remove the seals and try and get a consistent fit without them, as the seals can mess with the fit and if you can get a good fit without them you will get much better sealing all round when you refit them.
Open the door, lower the window (very important) put your knee against the door lock area (or hinge) and pull the frame towards you in the direction needed. You will obviously need steps or some form of platform to get access.
If it doesn’t want to play ball, use a length of wood as a lever through the window aperture and a couple of blocks of wood to achieve the same effect. You will need to over bend and let it spring back into the shape you want so small adjustments are best.
I am assuming the door isn’t contacting the door seals which is the normal issue.
If it is contacting the seal, you will need to remove the seal and see if the issue is the door or the door frame.
I think I would start with a hammer and block of wood before getting the porta power out, but depends what the issue is.
I would completly remove the seals and try and get a consistent fit without them, as the seals can mess with the fit and if you can get a good fit without them you will get much better sealing all round when you refit them.
I have a LDV Convoy (2002)with the same problem. Poorly made but heh they are designed for hard work and on some tasks the doors get slammed numerous times a day which does not help. As it just gets used occassionally I put up with it but one day!
Hi mate, I have just discovered your TK build, fantastic thread. I am based in West Melton and just starting on a 1972 TK rebuild.
Wondering if there is a way I could get in touch with you and possibly pick your brains about a few things?
Thanks Luke
Wondering if there is a way I could get in touch with you and possibly pick your brains about a few things?
Thanks Luke
I've a 2000 Convoy. You can adjust the cab door hinges to make the door sealing better (ok, less bad).
I did have to weld the drivers door at the front (just under the quarter light) as ig had cracked.
Mine now has more plates in it than a Banquet Dinner Service, but the old Narna 2.5di & the rest if it keeps plodding on.
Worse part is the water ingress. Bloody thing wants to leak like a sieve. Wiper spindles, windscreen seal side door, gutters - you name it.
I'm fighting a (losing) battle with it tbh. MoT is up in October, & I suspect it may be the end of the road - cos I'm not sure have the will/energy to spend more hours keeping it in one piece than I do using it.
Screwdriver
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I used to drive a TK 7.5t box. You had to rock the truck on the (grabby) clutch to turn the very heavy steering in anywhere tight, & I'm sure you needed to dislocate your shoulder to get one of the gears (I think reverse). Dog slow, no power, noisy & uncomfortable.
Oh yes..... & the box was do wide the mirrors were next to useless... so to check for a car close behind when reversing, you had to open the door, put your hand & weight on the wing & leaned out as far as you could......
...... except the wing is rounded & very slippery when wet - so doing this in the rain meant your hand slipped & you fell out into the road, while the TK chugged slowly backwards on its own.
(Ask me how I know)
Oh yes..... & the box was do wide the mirrors were next to useless... so to check for a car close behind when reversing, you had to open the door, put your hand & weight on the wing & leaned out as far as you could......
...... except the wing is rounded & very slippery when wet - so doing this in the rain meant your hand slipped & you fell out into the road, while the TK chugged slowly backwards on its own.
(Ask me how I know)
colnerov
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- Nr Gatwick UK
Best thing about a petrol TK is turning the ignition off on a long hill then enjoying the almighty bang when you turn it back on again
Then the walk back to reclaim the blown up silencer and the cost of replacing it.
Gritineye
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Then the walk back to reclaim the blown up silencer and the cost of replacing it.
Not in my experience..
Cobbler
Codger bodger
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The petrol TK I drove on odd occasions in the early 70’s did 9 to the gallon if I recall correctly. Luckily I didn’t pay for the fuel.Best thing about a petrol TK is turning the ignition off on a long hill then enjoying the almighty bang when you turn it back on again
