Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,520
- Location
- Cumbria
starting to get somewhere now isn't it satisfying when you produce shiney beads?!
re the balance thing... the Miller settings are a % balance of electrode negative... the Parweld is set in % balance electrode positive. 30% EP = 70% EN. Hope that clears that up?
30% EP is a pretty good general purpose setting. Gives good cleaning, good heat input, and doesn't ball the tip too much.
"Balling the tip" is an anachronism now. It was for transformer TIG sets which used to put way more heat into the electrode, generally for pure tungsten which could take the heat input once a ball was established.
You have a modern set and modern electrodes: none of that applies.
Modern thinking is: sharpen that tip, with a blunt point. Don't make the angle too steep. Then when you use it, it will naturally melt back into a small ball anyways. Use it like that until the ball is the same size as the tungsten diameter. Then grind it back to a point.
This way you get some of the benefits of directed heat like you do with DC TIG.
How fast it balls back is governed by three things mainly: 1. the % balance; 2. arc length (longer arc puts more heat into electrode); 3. the machine itself and the circuitry design (to a lesser extent).
If Hood had good results with 15-25% balance with the same machine, then I'd try lower. You only need enough balance to keep the weld clean, but some machines just don't like settings as low as that. The lower the balance, the better the electrode will stay sharp.
I've said it before a few times, but I'll say it again: Run some beads before you start running joints!
re the balance thing... the Miller settings are a % balance of electrode negative... the Parweld is set in % balance electrode positive. 30% EP = 70% EN. Hope that clears that up?
30% EP is a pretty good general purpose setting. Gives good cleaning, good heat input, and doesn't ball the tip too much.
"Balling the tip" is an anachronism now. It was for transformer TIG sets which used to put way more heat into the electrode, generally for pure tungsten which could take the heat input once a ball was established.
You have a modern set and modern electrodes: none of that applies.
Modern thinking is: sharpen that tip, with a blunt point. Don't make the angle too steep. Then when you use it, it will naturally melt back into a small ball anyways. Use it like that until the ball is the same size as the tungsten diameter. Then grind it back to a point.
This way you get some of the benefits of directed heat like you do with DC TIG.
How fast it balls back is governed by three things mainly: 1. the % balance; 2. arc length (longer arc puts more heat into electrode); 3. the machine itself and the circuitry design (to a lesser extent).
If Hood had good results with 15-25% balance with the same machine, then I'd try lower. You only need enough balance to keep the weld clean, but some machines just don't like settings as low as that. The lower the balance, the better the electrode will stay sharp.
I've said it before a few times, but I'll say it again: Run some beads before you start running joints!