Blown my welder up.

[Retired]

Hi,

I've just spent half an hour practicing whilst using my new hand rest for the first time. My gloves are new and tended to grip rather than slide along the rest but I stuck with it; the first beads were done in jerks but as more beads were run I started to get the feel of it and quickly improved. I was just running the final bead and at the end the torch hose slipped from my shoulder giving a rather nice dip in.

I reset the welder adjustments before starting and first bead was 120A at 70hz with 20% AC balance; the bead was terrible due to my glove jerking along the rest but it looked promising; after the second bead I dropped the amps to 110A and it seemed happy at this; I held the tungsten more upright so it wasn't chasing the puddle but pushing the heat down into the weld; this alone is a big improvement; the welds are all shiny and more consistent in width; I could have dropped amps a bit more nearer the finish beads as the aluminium heated up. Just one grind of the tungsten right at the end so I'm definitely making steady progress. I wire brushed then wiped with acetone and also wiped the filler rod with acetone before starting. It's been a cold day and as I left the workshop I felt perished but happy.

Now I've got the hand rest I'll try a short tube over the bar which should give a more controlled sliding action; I'm still seated too low but it's all coming together.

Kind regards, Colin.

I was concentrating so hard until the hose slid from my shoulder otherwise I'm sure I could have shown decent beads. Typical of my luck; I had just washed and dried the car also checking tyre pressures with overhead cloud but as soon as I sat to weld the sun was blinding me through the door glass; as soon as I came up to the bungalow the sun departed; a few days ago whilst welding the sun kept darkening the helmet as I turned my head; what I need is a nuclear bunker to work in?

A poor picture but shows the new set up I'm using. I've tried 20% AC balance previously but found the tungsten quickly coated; today the same balance has been fine with shiny clean welds? I've still got lots of practice ahead of me but I'm not in a hurry; every session helps.

An update; I've just bought some of this tube; 100mm x 18mm.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLEAR-AC...var=570827844855&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The bar is 5/8" diameter so this should slide nicely; at the price it's worth a try?

 

[Hood]

Coming along nicely

 

[Munkul]

The tungsten will not coat itself with balance; it must have picked up material from a small dip. The balance will directly affect how sharp it stays, though, as well as the width of etching and amount of cleaning.

Your welds look more consistent now, but still too hot. I'd drop the amps further. The ends - possibly need a bit more of a slope out and add that last filler dab to get rid of the craters.

You'll be wanting to do joints again now

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Hood.

Thanks Munkul. I have the welder set at Parweld suggestion as a starting point for slope out but I'll have a go at increasing it; I'll also drop the amps more as you kindly suggest; I'll leave it on 20% AC balance for the time being because I have found playing with too many adjustments at once I lose control of the weld. I don't think I'm yet ready for joints so I'll run off the gas I have practicing more beads then with a full cylinder will try joints but if I still have problems with joints I'll revert back to practicing beads. I'll do more beads using the hand rest today but ideally I'd like not to rely too much on such aids being able to freehand welds but this obviously will only come with lots of practice and very steady hands.

I've got plenty 2.5mm 4043 filler rods but my 1.6mm filler rods are pure aluminium and I need to buy more of this size so I'll pop over to The Wakefield Welding Center and buy a 2.5kg pack but of 4043.

We've sure had some rain over the last few days but although it was still pouring down early this morning it's now brightened up a bit so I can wander into the workshop without getting wet.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Munkul]

sounds like a good plan

1.6mm alum filler rods are not really very useful IME.

You will use 2.4mm filler down to 1.6mm material thickness, and only drop to 1.6mm for 1.0mm material thickness or less. It sounds a bit backwards (and it is, compared to steel), but due to the way alum flows and the way it conducts heat, you want the larger size of filler - dabbing filler itself chills and controls the weld pool, and you then don't have to feed it as fast.

It's been mentioned a few times on this forum, I think it was Richard who said "on steels - use the smallest sensible size of filler you can get away with. On aluminium, use the largest you can get away with" which I think is good advice.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

You're a gem Munkul; thank you.

I'll not bother wasting money on 1.6mm filler rods and follow your advice; the thinnest aluminium I'll most likely use will be 1.6mm and this is the thickness I used on the petrol tank I still dream of welding; I'm not good enough yet to tackle the tank but I'm improving.

I've just come out of the workshop feeling perished but what a wonderful learning hour I've just enjoyed. I'm still using the 4mm thick aluminium to practice running beads on and first thing I did was to increase the slope out from 2 to 3 it has a range up to 10. I wire brushed the aluminium then wiped it with acetone; I also wiped the filler rods with acetone; the tungsten was ground to a new point and I ran the first bead at 110A; the picture below shows the original test piece now cut in half.

At the weld end the arc doesn't suddenly die as I let go of the button so I let go of the button as the end approaches adding more filler rod before the arc dies; when I let go of the button do the amps drop because if I run right to the bead end I tend to overheat the aluminium and destroy it?

The last bead to the left was done at much reduced amps and pleased me because previously as the aluminium heated up I blew away large areas near the edge. There's a lot to take in at one go.

The gas cylinder is almost empty so next session will empty it then I can upgrade to a single 20L cylinder; I'll email Innergy and ask them to please obtain the bigger cylinder for me; I'll need to slightly modify the welding trolley to accept the larger diameter cylinder.

Kind regards, Colin.

The nine beads on the left are run this morning the beads to the right run previously and I think I'm making progress comparing the two. The first bead at 110A the last bead (left) at 60A all at 20% AC balance and 70hz. The welds are run from bottom to top; I'm getting the hang of starting but still have a crater at the finish; time I think now to concentrate on getting rid of the craters. No dipping and no soot this morning; the hand rest certainly helps; the new TIG gloves are a huge improvement over rigger gloves; the new expensive Optrel helmet is between brilliant and a pest; brilliant for welding and actually amazing but keeping the visor adjusted is annoying; I adjust the visor and it's then fine for a while until it starts to slowly drop when flipped up; I need to have a good look at the adjusters to see if they can be locked? Shiny welds and no soot; a nice session.

 

[Munkul]

What's the amperage at the end of the slope out? It should be around 20-30 amps. Basically enough to keep the weld hot, but not enough to puddle at all.

 

[minimutly]

sounds like a good plan

1.6mm alum filler rods are not really very useful IME.

You will use 2.4mm filler down to 1.6mm material thickness, and only drop to 1.6mm for 1.0mm material thickness or less. It sounds a bit backwards (and it is, compared to steel), but due to the way alum flows and the way it conducts heat, you want the larger size of filler - dabbing filler itself chills and controls the weld pool, and you then don't have to feed it as fast.

It's been mentioned a few times on this forum, I think it was Richard who said "on steels - use the smallest sensible size of filler you can get away with. On aluminium, use the largest you can get away with" which I think is good advice.

Liked this post. Now this may be bad practice, but I have on occasions, used a battery drill to twist three 1.6 rods together....

 

[Munkul]

My first experience of aluminium TIG was with 1.6mm rods, i mistakenly bought 1.6mm same as what i use for nearly all my stainless work. It was really good practice for my rod feeding hand though feeding an inch of rod into each dab...! It was a bit of a revelation to step it up to 2.4mm.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I'm unsure as to what the amperage is at slope out Munkul and a good question because it might be set too high; the tungsten seems to be still putting a lot of heat into the puddle as I let go of the button? Now I'm becoming more familiar with the welder I can find my way around a bit; it was daunting at first working from two sheets of the Parweld user instructions. When I first started I noticed the 1.6mm rods disappeared at an alarming pace and as I only had bought short lengths I've ended up with lots of waste.

Tut; tut minimutly teaching me bad habits; I've enough bad habits of my own. Munkul should have known about this sooner?

I fancy a dabble using pulse before the gas runs out.

It's like night time here; I wonder if it's going to snow?

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Munkul]

I started running this the other day... no it's far from perfect, but this is what I meant about stacking beads. It feels a little more like running a joint. This was 3mm at 90 amps or less, and I think 2 second slope out... could have done with longer I think.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Many thanks Munkul. You're definitely better at TIG welding than I am but I'm trying to catch up. I've watched stacking beads as shown in your picture on YouTube videos; I've not yet tried stacking being happy to just run single beads with spacings in order to get the hang of torch control.

You asked previously what the amperage is at slope out suggesting 20A/30A? Above are the details for my welder and as you can see this setting is based on a percentage of main amps if I'm correct and this is the setting I need to be adjusting. If I'm welding at 120A and let go of the button whilst set at 50% then this will explain why I feel the welder to be still putting out full main amps it dropping to 60A? In order to drop amps then I need to lower the %? To get the amps down to what you suggest then I need to be around 20% whilst welding on main amps at 120A? It's all starting to make sense and next session I'll drop the slope out %.

I've been having further problems obtaining Argon gas. A couple of days ago I phoned Innergas and wanted to upgrade from two low pressure 9L cylinders to a single 20L higher pressure cylinder but the young lady was a trainee and offered to get someone to phone me back but this is always a problem; I never have a phone in the workshop and our land line is up in the bungalow so if Bron takes a call it's a real pain switching machines etc off then having to come up to the bungalow usually in the rain so I said I'd phone back. In the meantime I decided if phoning was such a problem then I filled in their online form requesting the upgrade; still no reply an hour ago so once again I phoned the Innergas Dewsbury number; is nothing straight forward at all these days; I thought I was ordering the cylinder at Dewsbury until I asked where the young lady was; she was answering my call in Leeds the call being automatically transferred? I've finally ordered the 20L cylinder and will be advised when it's ready for collection from Dewsbury; I'm still awaiting something easy since adopting TIG welding as an hobby? Oh hum I'll battle on and wonder what the next hoop will be I have to jump through?

I've given the workshop a miss today due to our dire climate but tomorrow I plan a workshop session and I'll switch the fan heater on; in spite of the setbacks I'm still as keen as ever to learn TIG welding.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I've just enjoyed an hours fun in the workshop. The new stool arrived and this is an improvement over the steps I've been using as a seat. The plastic tubing also arrived and I had high hopes this would give a much better sliding action on the hand rest but it didn't so was discarded; the idea seemed good and it was worth a try.

I tried adjusting the slope out amps but the machine won't let me; at settings the machine skips from E to I missing H which is the adjustment needed for this? I knew it skipped a setting so now I know which one; perhaps it will work on pulse?

I'm now out of gas but it's been enjoyable just getting the hang of using the torch; no puddle dipping and no tungsten grinding; I've been running beads or rather filling in between previous beads; this has been excellent practice; watching the bead sides puddle as I fed in filler rod to the valley; the beads aren't meant to be pretty but I've filled in the valleys taking control of the puddle and it's been fascinating zig zagging to lay a very wide filler bead. As the aluminium heated up I ended up running the beads at 65A and it seemed happy at this; I'm beginning to see how the puddle behaves as I chased it around without it getting away from me.

I feel I can now progress to joints; I'm out of 4mm thick aluminium but I've got lots of 1.6mm aluminium to practice on; I might have a better chance now I'm getting the hang of the adjustments; I'll only do one type of joint at a time until I master it then move on to the next joint.

Looking at your bead stacking Munkul it looks like you've run the beads onto clean aluminium but not wire brushed it but your beads have turned out very well indeed?

Kind regards, Colin.

My new workshop stool replacing the steps and at only £15 delivered through eBay it's amazing value.

I bought the inexpensive plastic tube hoping it would give a smooth sliding motion rather like a linear bearing but I wasn't impressed when I tried it so discarded it; I'll try anything if I think it will help.

Bead after bead then I filled in the valleys just playing around to get used to how the puddle behaves; by the time I ran out of gas the piece had really heated up but I was still in control of the puddle without destroying the edges so this alone must be a big step forward. Not meant to be pretty and in spite of the ups and down over previously run beads no puddle dipping.

 

[Munkul]

Good stuff, keep it up.

Some welders simply don't have some parameters adjustable - wouldn't be surprised if end current was a missing option. I never had start or end current adjustment on my old ESAB, just adjusted the slope time to acheive my aims.

 

[Hood]

I am almost positive the XTT does have the ability to adjust slope time and end current. Granted I almost always used 4T but even still I am sure it worked.

 

[Hood]

Just looked at the manual and it is K and L you are looking for.
K is slope down time and L is end Current.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks Munkul.

Many thanks Hood for enlightening me and taking the time and trouble to post the details; I feel rather a fool because I've misunderstood the adjustments in my ignorance and as the settings skip (I) this now I've double checked is the slope up time; I've not paid enough attention so apologies for this; so much to take in all at once. I'm now out of gas but I can switch the welder on to check (L) the final current and I'll be interested to see what it's set at but I think I set this at 10% of main current as recommended in the Parweld instructions; if it is 10% then the problem is me which isn't a surprise and I'll leave it at 10%.

Once I obtain the 20L cylinder and return the two 9L cylinders I should feel more settled regarding gas but I'll also have a look at BOC Volkzone because although I've struggled thus far I like playing with the TIG welder and think this is going to be a long time excellent hobby; one thing is certain; I'll ensure the welder is frequently used to keep it in good order; I've already suffered due the welder not being used for over a year.

I'm making lots of mistakes as I've made with the final current but please bear with me; I think it's clear I'm not a time waster and am keen to learn TIG welding; I know I can frustrate but look how far I've progressed with your generous help; to succeed is to stick with it and I'm a good sticker.

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Retired]

Hi,

I've now modified my welding trolley to accept a 20L cylinder and whilst in the workshop switched the welder on. AC TIG welding no pulse mode; no adjustment on (I) and no adjustment on (L) the controls skip both these settings; it's possible these two can be adjusted in different welding modes which is strange because the user instructions state how to adjust both these for AC TIG welding? After such a catastrophic explosion it's possible there could remain a fault in the welder but even before the welder died I couldn't adjust a couple of settings possibly these two? It's not the end of the world because I'm getting used to the welder and I let go of the button before reaching weld end to compensate?

Kind regards, Colin.

 

[Munkul]

It would make sense if H or L were not adjustable, but I should definitely be adjustable, it's slope time which is fairly important. Possibly try changing from 2T to 4T mode and see if that makes any difference?

Anyway Slope down time K is adjustable so to be fair you can do a lot with that alone.

 

[Hood]

From memory all settings are adjustable with the exception of the pulse settings, unless of course you are in pulse and then they too are available.
It is a shame I do not have the XTT any more to be 100% sure but maybe someone who does can check, I sold mine to @Ruffian so maybe he can confirm?