Boxing a fireplace in preparation for fitting a stove

[JimmyS]

I'd guess its the sulfur in the coal that forms sulphuric acid type byproducts that rots the stainless flue over time.

 

[GraemeVW]

Thanks,

I used these type lengths.

Rockwool Tube For 125mm Flue Liner - 2 x 1000mm Lengths

Application Rockwool Tubes are used to insulate flue liner and thus reduce the possibility of condensation in the flue. Usually installed in large open chimneys or when the chimney is situated in an open aspect, and is subject to harsh weather conditions. For 125mm diameter liner. 2 x 1000mm Lengths

www.fluesystems.com

Though not bought from there, I forgot where.

All sounds sensible. Should also be sure to leave the draught sliders open a crack in summer too like that, should help reduce condensation risk.

Phew, that's all good then.
Had horrible thoughts of it just being loft insulation!

Yes, leave the vents open, crack the door open sometimes too, but only on still days or you may find backdraft blowing dust all over the room!

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I've had another thought about the installation. If I make up the end parts including the stove flange like this once the liner is in the chimney, it should be an easy job to bolt the flange to the top of stove once it's in place from inside the stove.

Set far enough back for the flue to go straight up from the top.

View from inside.

The downside I see is that there would be less air circulation around the stove when set so far back in.

 

[GraemeVW]

Yes, that would work.

If we were doing it that way, we would...

Drop the liner from the top, fit the adapter, fit the pipe, pull the liner back up so the end of the pipe is where we want it.
Then mark the liner at the top, pull it up more, cut it and fit a pot hanging cowl.
Then lower liner again and fit cowl to pot.

The other option is to use a plate and clamp to hold the liner, but they go under the pot. It's easier to get the length right though.

In open space we cut the liner at the bottom. It's far easier, if there is room. You may have, hard to tell.

Then put the closure plate in.
Flue pipe should now be at the right height, with a little squash, so you have to push the pipe up 2" to be in the right place.
Then put the collar on the pipe, slide the stove under it, then bolt the collar to the stove from inside.

If you can do it that way, it would be better than rear exit on a T.

As I say, just put a couple of screws in each connection so they can't be pushed apart when sweeping.
Had to take out an install week (not one of ours) as the liner had been pushed out of the adapter.

The adapter you have with the 3 thumb screws is fine, but sometimes they take up a fair bit of space. Might have to orientate it so the thumb screws aren't pressed up against a wall.

 

[GraemeVW]

@RaceDiagnostics your last pic there, looking up, is the stove fully in place?
Is there something going across the opening?
Is there clearance for a straight drop onto the stove?
If not, you could put a 45, or 30 etc, bend out the top of the stove. You can use 2 to step the flue back by half the diameter/whole diameter, depending on degree of bend.


Edit...
It's snug, but stove looks nice in there

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I think the bar across the top was part of the rear flue for the back boiler it is actually set towards the back and won't impede the flue. I could have taken it out but as it isn't in the way I decided not to disturb it. There is a clear 10inch by 10 inch space directly above for either top or back entry.

The stove in the pic above has the flue roughly centered on the opening above.

I just asked Kim which she preferred, of course she said she preferred it pulled forwards.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I bought this diamond wheel (£9.99 from Toolstation) to cut the 2cm porcelain tiles I got, it worked really well. I first did a light cut over my pencil line then got Kim to lightly spray water onto the wheel while doing the rest of the cut.

But not enough water to electrocute me, didn't even trip the rcd.

 

[julianthegypsy]

Our house in Alberta had a stove fitted on a plinth in front of the fireplace. The fireplace was completely blanked off and the flue went at 45 degrees into a hole that had been knocked into the chimney breast. There was also a big lazy ceiling fan very near the stove. Having it in the room rather than in the hearth was brilliant as all the heat went into the room, and the fan pushed it down and also out. When it was running, we set the central heating at 16 degrees, just for protection from blown pipes if it went out, but in practice it hardly ever came on and our gas bill was laughable.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

The chimney sweep came today, glad I got it swept, there was a large bin bag full of soot came out, he also said it was no problem to help put in the flue. Result!

Luckily it was going down one of the chimneys right above the ridge, feeding down one of the outer ones would have been tricky.

Will get the stove fitted tomorrow.

Turns out to be a small world, got chatting and found out he grew up in the house opposite my Dads, grandparents house in Tayport 60 years ago.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

All done, strong draw and easy to light. Pleased with the end result.

 

[Pilgrim22]

The distances around the stove, there are 3 main factors.
Distance to combustables, which isn't an issue for you.
The manufacturers distance, if they have one, which is so the body doesn't overheat and buckle/crack
And having air space for circulation. Air gets drawn up from behind the stove. If its too close, heat will go into the wall instead.
You may also have to consider heat into the fabric of the building, but from what I saw in my skim, your all good.

What stove are you fitting?
What grade liner?
Got all your connection and termination details sorted?

It's all quite straight forward but if you want to know how info anything, just ask. I've pretty much worked out the easiest ways to do things well as I probably fit 3 a week on average.

Hi GraemeVW

Do you work for yourself? I need a Stove fitting (and so does my Lad) not to far away from you if you are interested?

 

[GraemeVW]

Hi GraemeVW

Do you work for yourself? I need a Stove fitting (and so does my Lad) not to far away from you if you are interested?

It's my friends company, but we only work in Sheffield.

 

[Pilgrim22]

It's my friends company, but we only work in Sheffield.

If you fancy a bit of extra weekend work before Christmas let me know.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Loving the stove.

 

[gaz1]

or build something underneath it and improve it even more

they can also be at the side as long as thosee pipes feed to the rear it will blow air out the top

 

[GraemeVW]

or build something underneath it and improve it even more

they can also be at the side as long as thosee pipes feed to the rear it will blow air out the top

Interesting.
First ones a bit loud though!

 

[gaz1]

computer fans are really quiet and power up from low power supply

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

I finally got round to sweeping the flue today. The stove has been used every day 6 to 12 hours a day since the middle of September and prior to that every other day last winter after I installed it in December 21.

My Mrs got me the sweep kit for my Christmas.

My expectation was that I wouldn't be able to sweep round the 90 degrees T piece at the rear of the stove, and I was right.

I was able to get the rods in but it was just too tight for comfort, so I whipped the stove out, the three SS nuts and bolts were in perfect condition.

The catch can at the bottom was about half full so no concern there and the removable plate allowed easy access for the rods.

I left the vacuum cleaner running and spun up the 9m of rods, a lot less soot came down than expected. Going forwards I'd be happy to just do this annually, burning the dry hard wood that we have been using so far.

 

[gaz1]

it also means you have been burning spot on at all times

and you havent lowered the stove too low therefore creating creosote up your flue as the stove wasnt burning at optimum

something that many stove owners do

 

[Barking Mat]

Never seen a chimney sweeping brush like that.

Always use one like this, no cordless drill involved.

Also, always told never a 90° bend, but two 45° bends, makes passing it up easier.