British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

[Wildefalcon]

After some excellent debate, I've decided on what to do about the floor supports and the side rails.

I'm going with deep flat bar and reusing the existing stud timber, but in the correct orientation.

And, as the Bilt Hamber stuff is jolly expensive in 1 litre cans, I'm going for Jotun epoxy mastic stuff over zinc epoxy stuff.

 

[gaz1]

you do realise you are damaging that wagon by not supporting it in the right place

these 2 pics alone tell me this



there no main support in those corners all the weight of the roof is on the middle angle irons

the front metal is just a squarer over wrap over the wood the 2nd pic shows the outside bolts coming through to the nuts



this would mean your support is in the wrong place

 

[Wildefalcon]

you do realise you are damaging that wagon by not supporting it in the right place

these 2 pics alone tell me this

View attachment 357896View attachment 357897

there no main support in those corners all the weight of the roof is on the middle angle irons

the front metal is just a squarer over wrap over the wood the 2nd pic shows the outside bolts coming through to the nuts

View attachment 357898

this would mean your support is in the wrong place

Yes. I do. That's why I'm doing all this work. To ensure it's solid for the future.

That's where the crane dropped it. And there are sleepers at the door.

That's a Hornby model, by the way.

That's the challenge, the door uprights, which are tee section, not angle, were crudely cut off when the top was removed from the bogie. These uprights originally extended to the bogie chassis, which is gone.

When I've addressed the rust, and tied the side rails, I'll move to its final place and set it on sleepers, leveled up, under the uprights. Can't do any more than that.

Remember, it's not a wagon anymore, it's an office, so won't be subject to the dynamic loading from being dragged around the rail network and shunting around rail yards.

 

[jenki]

Have you thought about floor insulation that could be a cold office in the winter.

 

[gaz1]

Remember, it's not a wagon anymore, it's an office, so won't be subject to the dynamic loading from being dragged around the rail network and shunting around rail yards.

i can easily throw that back

its not an office its a rail wagon, that was being moved, allowed to breathe, not stuck there collecting damp

the floor alone wouldnt have been where it is now collecting water and damp unable to be painted instead its just rotting away

 

[Wildefalcon]

Give me a chance! I've only had it a week. You're worse than management!

 

[Wildefalcon]

Have you thought about floor insulation that could be a cold office in the winter.

Yes. I know there will be comments about letting it breathe, but there will be insulation in the floor.

I'll take the risk on damp.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Materials are starting to arrive.
Paint!

 

[mr migwire]

we had issues on a banana van we restored and i ended up plating over the rivited joint as to cut out and weld in good would be a mare. both ends required repairing, it turned out ok.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm going to do the full job, I'm planning on cutting off the rivets from the inside and repairing the steel. Then fit the rivets as dummies, for the look. I'll see how I get on. I was thinking of using a hole saw to remove the riveted material, failing that a reciprocating saw will take them off.

Means stripping the panelling and ply from the end, but needs must. And will allow me to insulate behind.

 

[mr migwire]

I'm going to do the full job, I'm planning on cutting off the rivets from the inside and repairing the steel. Then fit the rivets as dummies, for the look. I'll see how I get on. I was thinking of using a hole saw to remove the riveted material, failing that a reciprocating saw will take them off.

Means stripping the panelling and ply from the end, but needs must. And will allow me to insulate behind.

that was the issue we had, the panneling and insulation in the van was such that to get it all out and replace the steel would have added a significant ammount of time to the job, we like to think that the repair we did would pass the old BR workshops scrutiny test, lol

 

[Wildefalcon]

I understand the dilemma. It's going to be a ball ache. I might delegate some of the work upwards to management. After all, she's ex British Rail management, I'm just a pen pusher for the NHS.

 

[gaz1]

I'm going to do the full job, I'm planning on cutting off the rivets from the inside and repairing the steel. Then fit the rivets as dummies, for the look. I'll see how I get on. I was thinking of using a hole saw to remove the riveted material, failing that a reciprocating saw will take them off.

Means stripping the panelling and ply from the end, but needs must. And will allow me to insulate behind.

if you use 2 sizes of dome bolts or coach bolts with washer and nut it will give you the look your wanting

the smaller size the wood can be predrilled so the washer and bolt sinks into it i suspect 1/1/2 dome bolt

the longer size is for you to fit the 3x2 insulation about 5" you want 6 long bolts per side panel of the door 24 long bolts you will need extra nuts and washers for these

 

[Wildefalcon]

We got a bit more done this evening. All the floor boards are out and also the new wall. I'll do more this weekend, hoping to get the "not joists" gone, so I can start at the rust.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The design committee and the procurement committee have decided that the wiring will be in exposed galv conduit. Apparently the industrial look is no longer trendy, so it has been cleared by the taste advisory board.

So, I've to obtain a conduit die set. What cheap set will do about twenty or so threads before I hide it in the workshop to rust away?

I've a record pipe vice and stand, so just need the cheapest die set that actually works more than once.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Also, these are the nuts holding on the interior panels. My thoughts are to see if they shear off with the impact wrench, no point in preserving them as we'll be sandwiching a layer of insulation, and so will need longer carriage bolts anyway.

 

[tom2207]

The design committee and the procurement committee have decided that the wiring will be in exposed galv conduit. Apparently the industrial look is no longer trendy, so it has been cleared by the taste advisory board.

So, I've to obtain a conduit die set. What cheap set will do about twenty or so threads before I hide it in the workshop to rust away?

I've a record pipe vice and stand, so just need the cheapest die set that actually works more than once.

why not do it in galv box trunking , with the two turn screw fixing lid ,,, then you can just pop the lid off and upgrade , or change what ever you want , you can run anything in the trunk ,,, fast and easy and still chunky looking.

 

[Robotstar5]

The design committee and the procurement committee have decided that the wiring will be in exposed galv conduit. Apparently the industrial look is no longer trendy, so it has been cleared by the taste advisory board.

So, I've to obtain a conduit die set. What cheap set will do about twenty or so threads before I hide it in the workshop to rust away?

I've a record pipe vice and stand, so just need the cheapest die set that actually works more than once.

I have a new in box RS Pro threading set, not cheap though, I would be looking for £30

 

[gaz1]

The design committee and the procurement committee have decided that the wiring will be in exposed galv conduit. Apparently the industrial look is no longer trendy, so it has been cleared by the taste advisory board.

So, I've to obtain a conduit die set. What cheap set will do about twenty or so threads before I hide it in the workshop to rust away?

I've a record pipe vice and stand, so just need the cheapest die set that actually works more than once.

you havent seen the cost of your cedar or oak panels yet there going to be expansive just for your sides alone

 

[gaz1]

why not do it in galv box trunking , with the two turn screw fixing lid ,,, then you can just pop the lid off and upgrade , or change what ever you want , you can run anything in the trunk ,,, fast and easy and still chunky looking.

only the light switch would be seen the rest would be in the top panel as for the plugs can be fitted from the floor hidden by the skirting board in its own trunking