British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

[gaz1]

roller it on as it will be faster than a brush

 

[Dcal]

Here's a dumb question.

I've 4 litre pots of 2k paint. Zinc epoxy and jotamastic.

I'm going to brush this on, but if I make up a full pot it will probably set before I brush on the entire 4 liters.

How do I decant the paint into a bucket without dribbling it all the way down the sides of the tin? Is there a clever way to avoid wasting the paint?

Mix it really well before decanting it. By well I mean a stirrer in a slow speed drill.
Warming the paint helps, at the expense of pot life, so a splash of thinner might be a better option at this time of year. (If needed)

Mixing it by weight is the way to go.
I weigh it on decent scales but even cheap digital kitchen scales will work well.
It is so thick it's hard to get the ratios right by volume.
However, if you are pouring it into a plastic pot on a set of scales it is pretty easy.

Brush is a recommend application method for small areas.
With a roller its harder to get the correct thickness, but it does work.

What flavour of jotamastic is it? And is the zinc the Jotun Barrier?
The jotamastic will work very well on its own if you have decent prep.
Strictly speaking the zinc needs better prep so if that's not possible it might be better to just go with the Jotamastic.

I'm watching this with interest, as I have an earlier "timber sheeted" version waiting in the wing for when I ever get some free time.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Finished for today. One end almost completely stripped, ready for cleaning, strengthening and patching.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'm cleaning back to clean steel, hopefully, so it will be keyed for the zinc epoxy. Can't remember the brand.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Is universal thinners okay?

 

[gaz1]

just wrap it with tape and it pulls loose fibres off with it

 

[Wildefalcon]

Or. Could I put the paints in the fridge for a night or two?

 

[Dcal]

If it's cold it will extend the pot life but it will make it horrible to apply.
2k thinners will do in a pinch, the recommended thiners for the Jotamastic is Thinner 17.

Just mix what you need, it doesn't take long at this time of year before it starts to get harder to work with, even more so if the hardner is the winter version.
Link below for Jotun mixing ratios by weight.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/files/library/files/2%2520pack%2520weights%25200314.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjwtIT-kbj5AhUKXcAKHbYVBCgQFnoECAUQAg&usg=AOvVaw0_7cVj3bGrIf4HQosiZyEY

Your questions have been asked many times before on here.
The thread below is a recent one, but there are lots more in the paint section.

Bare metal underside prep

Hello folks, I have a few questions about bare metal preparation. Underside cleaned with flap wheels/wheelbrushes, some rust spots treated with BH deox gel, some spots sand blasted. Not sure whats next, I was considering these options, but would like to get a pro opinion. Option A: BH...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[Wildefalcon]

I've ordered thinners, useful links, thanks.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Removing old rivets is hard.

Removing the steel around them isn't.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I found that cutting a slit in the steel allowed the panel to be peeled away from the rivet allowing it to come away.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I'll dress this up and start patching.

Not sure how to remove the rivets from the strip, but I expect the easiest way will involve violence. And power tools.

 

[gaz1]

dont id replace with a new strip and rivet the bottom to the new strip whilst the new strip over laps the bottom piece and is also riveted using the round head bolts sorry i just prefer them over the flat head type and looks more genuine

 

[Wildefalcon]

Just needs a final wire brush and it's time to cart the welder from the workshop.

 

[Wildefalcon]

That was the plan.

New strip, old rivets, and welding them at the back. It will look original.

 

[gaz1]

id cut all the way around cutting that whole strip out

repair where needed with new steel as your only replacing with flat sheet

one thing with that sheet you have it can be cut into 4 and replaced with thin strips between extending the sheet metal and it wouldnt look really out of place

just replace with the round head bolts as it keeps it as near as genuine as possible

 

[gaz1]

now with the ends and this is me id probably buy new angle irons for the 4 corners and weld them on instead of it just being on the inner 4 middle pieces which is where the main support is needed

now the end pieces are only just fascias and they can be fitted on afterwards so it matches up whilst the fronts can be fastened to the angle iron

and then id fit a drip sill behind the old one and weld it to the new angle iron so it seals it and goes under the old one

this will create a way for the water to escape if any gets through the end pieces dont really need it

 

[Wildefalcon]

First bit in. I might have to adjust this a bit, as it's slightly distorted.

I'll have to get a couple of grinder disks in a minute. Good excuse to go to air conditioned shop!!!

 

[Wildefalcon]

Lidl were out of grinding disks, but I've one left so, that might do.

Anyway, as a welder, well, I'm good with a grinder.....

I didn't finish this today, but I've stopped. It's too noisy for the neighbourhood, so working hours only.

I've a letterbox section to do tomorrow, then I'll put the rivets back.

The base isn't as bad, thankfully, so that might go faster.

 

[Wildefalcon]

I was able to remove the rivets. Excessive use of violence was the trick.