Buying a 3D printer

[Onoff]

what are the dimensions?

220x240. 3mm maybe?

 

[Screwdriver]

The Ender 3 bed is 235x235 if that helps. To be fair, "maybe" is not a good enough measurement to be sure and likewise, useable print area is often different from the actual physical bed size. If the replacement glass fits on the heated element and doesn't clout the machine, should be good to go. I see them advertised for circa £12 so a test fit shouldn't break the bank.

 

[Bladevane]

@Onoff I bought 3mm borosilicate glass from Amazon in a couple of sizes to fit my RepRap. In the event they delaminate when removing prints the glass can be returned as "faulty" and money refunded.

Edit: Just seen your latest post. They also come with corner chamfers to clear levelling screws.

 

[Onoff]

The Ender 3 bed is 235x235 if that helps. To be fair, "maybe" is not a good enough measurement to be sure and likewise, useable print area is often different from the actual physical bed size. If the replacement glass fits on the heated element and doesn't clout the machine, should be good to go. I see them advertised for circa £12 so a test fit shouldn't break the bank.

Cheers. I can feel the back of a Cornflakes packet being cut to size as a trial template!

 

[Bladevane]

Good idea. Don’t print on it unless you want a flaky print!!! And make sure the printer is connected to the cereal port.

 

[Screwdriver]

Cereal port. That's very good.

 

[Onoff]

Cereal port. That's very good.

Yes, I read that and thought "Someone's had his Weetabix!"

 

[Onoff]

Good idea. Don’t print on it unless you want a flaky print!!! And make sure the printer is connected to the cereal port.

Corny

 

[fatfranky]

oh and in case this hasn’t been specified, you want the Ender 3 V2. NOT a 3x or 3pro, they are different. The 3V2 is the new kid on the block. £180 from https://www.creality3dofficial.com/

Choose ship from Croatia (imho). Website suggests it’s on sale from £145 but I can’t find that price. If I could, I’d probably buy it so I am not looking too hard....

Too late! Was the cry. Unfortunately I’ve now ordered an Ender 3D Pro from banggood (first time I’ve used them) should arrive next week, and a roll of PLA. From 3DQF and will take a gentle “ drive round the block” next week ( I’m already making vroom vroom noises!)

Ok next question, software! Fusion 360 seems to be well recommended, but is only “free” for a year, is this the best option, or is there an alternative?

Many thanks

 

[m_c]

Fusion360 is good for designing, but there are other options depending on what you're likely to be designing. Essentially you'll want something that outputs an STL file.
However, Fusion360 will still export STLs even on their reduced capability free version (well, it still exports them just now, but you never know what Autodesk will do in future...)

Then the common option is Cura for doing the slicing. Fusion360s slicer isn't that well thought of.

As you've ordered an original ender, the default recommended upgrades are an aluminium extruder feed arm (the plastic ones eventually crack, causing extrusion problems), and a set of silicon buffers to replace the standard bed springs (I'll admit, despite this often being mentioned as major issue with bed height problems, I'm still running the original springs with no issues...).
Then as an option, I'd highly recommend an BigTreeTech SKR E3 replacement motherboard. It's a drop in replacement which uses silent drivers, so if you have the printer within earshot, it pretty much eliminates stepper motor noise. Also their replacement TFT touchscreen makes the printer so much nicer to use, although if you're wanting to monitor the printer remotely, then I'd look at hooking up a RaspberryPi instead.

 

[Screwdriver]

Too late! Was the cry. Unfortunately I’ve now ordered an Ender 3D Pro from banggood

That is the exact model I went with, gets you the glass bed and a couple of other features. I strongly recommend you do not "upgrade" anything. By the time you have run half a dozen reels through it, you will appreciate all of its value is the ability to deliver reliable prints and it is great value for that.

If you want a better printer, buy a better version, it is way more cost effective. I use my machine as a tool for producing useful items. It is not a hobby and therefore I do not intend to entertain myself by constantly upgrading and fixing the inevitable issues which arise.

There are a few "no brainers" such as the bowden cable replacement but those are all detailed in this thread; https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/what-3d-printer.103545/

 

[Bladevane]

There are many downsides to Fusion 360 but I use it because: There are lots of video tutorials around including on their own site; I can't be bothered to float between CAD packages and I don't have the capacity to learn more than one; it provides what I want with the ability to modify drawings or import files to modify. I am sure trained CADists can recommend "better" options but I am self trained and it suits me fine.

 

[Onoff]

Well, at vast expense & short of Christmas present ideas for my lad, I've ordered a piece of borosilicate glass. Cut to size to fit the Anycubic Ultrabase with chamfered corners.

Plan is it'll clip on atop the existing Ultrabase, the chamfered corners avoiding the existing clips. I'll need to get x4 extra clips.

The glass is 3mm thick. Not sure what you do to "take 3mm off" the Z axis so the hot end doesn't try and put itself through the glass!

 

[Screwdriver]

Does it have a physical z switch?

 

[Onoff]

Does it have a physical z switch?

No ideas! Lad's back from uni by next weekend hopefully then he can figure it out over Christmas! Tbh the printer has sat there since he went back not being used. Did find a few comments just now which suggests so. A vague recollection you print something to bolt on to move the switch up/down by the thickness of the added glass.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-i3-mega/forums/general/topic:15495

 

[Screwdriver]

There are only three competing features which confuse people so far as I am aware: the physical limit switch which activates when the print head hits it and a software driven "home" with additional software offset.

Bed height can also be adjusted manually but is totally independent from softwares. Initially you should set that to a sort of good average position (err on the side of caution) so that when you have the gross positioning for the Z height (as below), you have enough micro adjustment either way to suit the new thicker bed.

To make sure you set the Z height correctly, send the print head to the home position first (before installing the extra height bed!), then with the machine off, physically move the head by hand so that it gives you room for the new bed and adjust the Z limit switch (unscrew it and move it) so that it just switches at that point. You can then safely play with the bed height adjusters and software Z offset safe in the knowledge you won't be dragging the tip over your glass.

I didn't know this when I got mine. First thing I did literally when I switched the machine on for the first time was to gouge a perfect square track into my glass bed! It's in this thread I think...

<edit> I **think** what should happen is that you send the device to "home", tweak that position with the offsets, then in software with the print head nozzle now exactly where you want it, set that to be the confirmed new "home" position and that resets the software offset (i.e. the XYZ "offset" is now zeroed). Since mine doesn't give me any trouble I haven't played with those setting since.

 

[ukracer]

Well, at vast expense & short of Christmas present ideas for my lad, I've ordered a piece of borosilicate glass. Cut to size to fit the Anycubic Ultrabase with chamfered corners.

Plan is it'll clip on atop the existing Ultrabase, the chamfered corners avoiding the existing clips. I'll need to get x4 extra clips.

The glass is 3mm thick. Not sure what you do to "take 3mm off" the Z axis so the hot end doesn't try and put itself through the glass!

Move the zstop switch

 

[Screwdriver]

Move the zstop switch

I appreciate you're trying to be funny but that won't work. Just "moving the switch" could and often does, cause severe mechanical damage.

 

[Onoff]

So I'm awaiting a bit of 3mm glass. Currently the heated Ultrabase, which is anyway self adhesive btw, is held in place by these clips:

Current thickness of the clamped sections is nom 5.5mm.

There's just over 3mm gap:

Thinking however I leave these clips in place and use something like these:

 

[Onoff]

I've bought x8 of the above clips. Thinking add more in case there's any bowing.