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scottmk1
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I've got a 1m lift scissor type lift in my garage, it's mobile when there's nothing on it. Ideally it would be recessed into the floor (for me anyway) as it's an obstacle at times. It works well and is rated for 3 tonnes. Apart from the limited height the disadvantages are not being able to work on sills, some rear beam mounts and front suspension mounts etc, and any brake or fuel lines that run along the sill, and floor pans if you are doing restoration work.
At my old man's shed we have a cheap Chinese 2 post lift and a Bradbury 3 ton 4 poster.
The 4 poster is ok, you can work on sills, brake lines, floor pans etc no problem. I've got a jack for it too so you can lift one end of a vehicle. It can still be a pain getting to hubs etc using the jack on the 4 poster depending on what you are doing. You need double the height of the lift post's to take it up to full height, as the ram extends out.
The 2 post is more universal, unless you are working on the sills of cars. The base also needs to be much more substantial for a 2 post than the other types.
I'm in Fife if you want to have a nosey at them.
At my old man's shed we have a cheap Chinese 2 post lift and a Bradbury 3 ton 4 poster.
The 4 poster is ok, you can work on sills, brake lines, floor pans etc no problem. I've got a jack for it too so you can lift one end of a vehicle. It can still be a pain getting to hubs etc using the jack on the 4 poster depending on what you are doing. You need double the height of the lift post's to take it up to full height, as the ram extends out.
The 2 post is more universal, unless you are working on the sills of cars. The base also needs to be much more substantial for a 2 post than the other types.
I'm in Fife if you want to have a nosey at them.
Stueeee
Old git
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I have 2 jacking beams on my 4 post lift, so if necessary I can get the wheels/sills etc. of any vehicle well clear of the runners. My Lift is a 4 tonne one, so was originally wide enough to take a twin rear wheel van or such, I just narrowed it down a bit as amongst the vehicles in the "home fleet" here, there is a 1960s Fiat 500 which would have dropped through the original space between the runners. I certainly wouldn't bother getting a Chinese four poster; a decent European/US make can be bought secondhand for not much money, Unless it's a screw jack style, there's not much to go expensively wrong. The new cables I had made up for my now narrowed lift cost less than £200 delivered.
I've got a scissor lift at home. Not recessing it means I can move it around to get the beat access for what I'm doing - currently closer to the door and moved more to middle to gain better access to drop the engine/box out of my Lancia.
If I need access to the prop, underside etc shielded by the central spine, I just drop the car on some tall axle stands - the lift makes that very easy, much easier than trying to jack one end at a time.
If I need access to the prop, underside etc shielded by the central spine, I just drop the car on some tall axle stands - the lift makes that very easy, much easier than trying to jack one end at a time.
MetalMonkey
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I have a scissor lift, this one: https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7530d-garage-scissor-lift/
However, it's not exactly mobile given the weight of it, so I plan to recess it so I have a clean flat floor when it isn't in use.
The main advantages for me is that I don't have a solid enough slab for a two post, and limited height available.
The scissor doesn't need a thick slab, just reasonably flat ground and I can squeeze the mid rise in with the average height car. It also gives you access to the doors which a two post wouldn't, and its not in the way when you aren't using it.
You are restricted for access to the sills, but plenty of room to get to front and rear suspension which you wouldn't get with a four post, and this model is fine for centre access.
I wouldn't choose the smaller units with the centre cross braces as this would really restrict what you could get to.
I was in two minds when I bought it and agonised over the decision for ages, but since having it for a few jobs I can safely say it was a fantastic investment and I wish I'd got one sooner.
Works great for suspension, brakes, driveshafts exhausts etc.
If I had the extra height I would have preferred a full rise for more comfortable working, but you can get by with the midrise and it’s a magnitude better than working on your back under axle stands.
I know they say parachute valves are inherently safe on their own, but I do like the fact it has a couple of heavy duty locking racks as well, it’s very solid and inspires more confidence than axle stands – obviously you do have to give some consideration to centre of gravity, but perhaps not so much a concern as with a two post. One modification I would like to do is put an extra switch in to disable the pneumatic lock release, so I can lower it onto the locking rack to take the load of the hydraulics if I’m leaving it for some time – no idea if that is necessary but looks to be easy to do and I’d feel happier.
I can recommend Automotech, got a tyre machine and balancer from them as well and they have been great to deal with. No connection other than a happy customer.
However, it's not exactly mobile given the weight of it, so I plan to recess it so I have a clean flat floor when it isn't in use.
The main advantages for me is that I don't have a solid enough slab for a two post, and limited height available.
The scissor doesn't need a thick slab, just reasonably flat ground and I can squeeze the mid rise in with the average height car. It also gives you access to the doors which a two post wouldn't, and its not in the way when you aren't using it.
You are restricted for access to the sills, but plenty of room to get to front and rear suspension which you wouldn't get with a four post, and this model is fine for centre access.
I wouldn't choose the smaller units with the centre cross braces as this would really restrict what you could get to.
I was in two minds when I bought it and agonised over the decision for ages, but since having it for a few jobs I can safely say it was a fantastic investment and I wish I'd got one sooner.
Works great for suspension, brakes, driveshafts exhausts etc.
If I had the extra height I would have preferred a full rise for more comfortable working, but you can get by with the midrise and it’s a magnitude better than working on your back under axle stands.
I know they say parachute valves are inherently safe on their own, but I do like the fact it has a couple of heavy duty locking racks as well, it’s very solid and inspires more confidence than axle stands – obviously you do have to give some consideration to centre of gravity, but perhaps not so much a concern as with a two post. One modification I would like to do is put an extra switch in to disable the pneumatic lock release, so I can lower it onto the locking rack to take the load of the hydraulics if I’m leaving it for some time – no idea if that is necessary but looks to be easy to do and I’d feel happier.
I can recommend Automotech, got a tyre machine and balancer from them as well and they have been great to deal with. No connection other than a happy customer.
Melvyn Best
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Rather depends on what you are working on as to which lift is best. You wouldn’t want to do something like a Mondeo clutch for example on a 4 post lift where you have to drop the subframe although access for the front doors can be limited especially where the captive nuts for the subframe mounting bolts are seized. Scissor lifts limit access to the underside, no good for some BMWs where you have to remove plastic under panels for certain jobs. Having had over 50 years in motor trade work shops using most sorts of lifts and pits ,personally I would go for a two poster of decent quality, when I installed my Stenhog lift I broke out the concrete to a decent depth then installed a new concrete base which was the depth of the base below finished floor level, installed the lift then finished concreting the floor so the base was level . If height was limited I would invest in a decent trolley jack and axle stands. I must have taken 100s of Beetle engines out and never had a problem , suspect incorrect positioning of the arms was the problem , perhaps the car should have been on the lift backwards?
Olderisbetter
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My dream is a platform that comes up out of the ground so it will lift cars and also allow me to put a 8' x 4' table top on it for laying out and working off.
Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000KG-C...364550?hash=item1cdec25f06:g:AA0AAOSw5Pld5OZ5
Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000KG-C...364550?hash=item1cdec25f06:g:AA0AAOSw5Pld5OZ5
Olderisbetter
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These look quite usefull https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3000KG-C...520010?hash=item46a6585eca:g:UUQAAOSwFi5Z4HBF
gaz1
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no offense but this way has been good enough for landys and transit vans often the ramps are homemade that bolt together wood beams stacked on top
lifting vehicle with a high lift jack
something like this x2 is safer but its a slow down
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-2...601616?hash=item2d01da2410:g:3roAAOSwAGxeIbsc
added with this
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/sealey-cross-beam-adaptor-2-tonne/
lifting vehicle with a high lift jack
something like this x2 is safer but its a slow down
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-2...601616?hash=item2d01da2410:g:3roAAOSwAGxeIbsc
added with this
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/sealey-cross-beam-adaptor-2-tonne/
Ashley Burton
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8ob
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Four post with wheels free is a great tool for working on brakes/axles, once a vehicle is on the beams and the ramp is lowered a tad the ramp makes a brilliant work table for tools/parts just where you need it. Only thing against is the space they take up, front wheel drive cars can hang over the front of the four poster on chocks with a ratchet strap holding the back down.
Bob
Bob
Well I’ve been following this with some interest as I want a lift when my new workshop is built. 2 post, 4 post, meh. Still can’t decide.
one thing I do know is it will definitely not be one of these. What happens when I come across a tight bolt and have to pull on it with a breaker bar? Doesn’t bear thinking about.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/302706898169
one thing I do know is it will definitely not be one of these. What happens when I come across a tight bolt and have to pull on it with a breaker bar? Doesn’t bear thinking about.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/302706898169
roofman
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all you need is a wooden 4x4 post wedged under other 2 corners and that's going no where...great idea imho for lads where room is in short supply
I have a four post it has advantages and disadvantages but any lift is better than no lift
https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/7521-mobile-single-post-vehicle-lift/
They do move a bit but if it's on even ground your not going to make it fall off with a power bar, any who that's what impact guns are for.
https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/7521-mobile-single-post-vehicle-lift/
They do move a bit but if it's on even ground your not going to make it fall off with a power bar, any who that's what impact guns are for.
gaz1
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ive used 5 versions myself due to garage owners having them in there garages
4 post is handy feels more safer with vehicle on it getting access to wheels and welding related access a real pain when on ramp
2 post lift is un nerving to say the least got to check your jacks are in the right place as you lifting up check again as your lifting and bloody check your balance is right before you lift you do know when its off all vehicles are different some are a git to lift and need other adapting lifters in use
lift up to height then chock the back end to make it more stable as you work on it
the vehicle woberling on the ramps get to you and give it any force and your wondering if the woble force will take it off the 2 post lift
weldings fine until you come to the jacking point areas need welding
landrovers are known to slide off the jack points even with made up jacking slots 2 posters are not really good with them
theres another thing with 2 posters lift higher to get them off the lock pins then you can lower the lift that can be a little unknerving as bad as when you drop it down onto its locking system and that car starts woberling front to back and you wait for it to stable out hoping it dosnt topple off
single post side lift i refuse to work under one dont like them end of
scissor jack lift forget it its a pain to work anywhere near theat engine gearbox and exhaust working at certain points to weld well forget it with that type its always in the way
car ramps great access cheap to get with hydraulic jacks ackward to store not really those ones ive posted take up space 3ft x 6ft high stackable great can store stuff inside them when not needed
safer and lower but yes you can slot one ramp under each wheel then jack up again to add the wood beam chocks great stay in one place can weld and get to every part of the vehicle weather transit van long wheel base or even a landrover sat on them
every part can be gotten to and be welded and also sprayed up under there as well done it seen it done and grinded thick metal off for new metal to be shaped and welded onto again
same with normal car ramps
anyway thats my opinion of them and ive tried the lot of them and worked under or around them
4 post is handy feels more safer with vehicle on it getting access to wheels and welding related access a real pain when on ramp
2 post lift is un nerving to say the least got to check your jacks are in the right place as you lifting up check again as your lifting and bloody check your balance is right before you lift you do know when its off all vehicles are different some are a git to lift and need other adapting lifters in use
lift up to height then chock the back end to make it more stable as you work on it
the vehicle woberling on the ramps get to you and give it any force and your wondering if the woble force will take it off the 2 post lift
weldings fine until you come to the jacking point areas need welding
landrovers are known to slide off the jack points even with made up jacking slots 2 posters are not really good with them
theres another thing with 2 posters lift higher to get them off the lock pins then you can lower the lift that can be a little unknerving as bad as when you drop it down onto its locking system and that car starts woberling front to back and you wait for it to stable out hoping it dosnt topple off
single post side lift i refuse to work under one dont like them end of
scissor jack lift forget it its a pain to work anywhere near theat engine gearbox and exhaust working at certain points to weld well forget it with that type its always in the way
car ramps great access cheap to get with hydraulic jacks ackward to store not really those ones ive posted take up space 3ft x 6ft high stackable great can store stuff inside them when not needed
safer and lower but yes you can slot one ramp under each wheel then jack up again to add the wood beam chocks great stay in one place can weld and get to every part of the vehicle weather transit van long wheel base or even a landrover sat on them
every part can be gotten to and be welded and also sprayed up under there as well done it seen it done and grinded thick metal off for new metal to be shaped and welded onto again
same with normal car ramps
anyway thats my opinion of them and ive tried the lot of them and worked under or around them
MetalMonkey
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From what I've seen the guys that use these tend to opt for a couple of transmission jacks front and back which firms it up quite a bit. You still need a fair bit of height for one of them though.
In my opinion ( maybe because I own one .... ) the best scissor lift is the Hauberg Autolift. It is unique in that, after rising about a metre, it can tilt the car forward or back. With the opposite wheels off, you can get the front or back bumper of a short car about 2 metres off the ground.
It has a centrally-pivoted X frame, with four extendable, swing-out arms that pick up on jacking points or axles or wishbones.
One electro-hydraulic ram lifts it about 1 metre; another double-acting ram allows the vehicle to tilt up or down, so you can work on either end at head height. Most are 230v mains, but there was also a 12v version. It has a mechanical ratchet interlock and hydraulic load-holding safeties.
There is very little restriction of access to the underside. Best of all, you can drag it outside ( about 300 Kg ) on 2 wheels, if, like me, you don't have enough headroom in your garage. It's magic. Pictures:
https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-miscellaneous-goods/huaberg-autolift-portable-car-lift/1340788156
https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-power-tools/hydraulic-car-tilting-lift-2-ton/1286457637
One was recently offered for sale, it may still be available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hauberg-...t-Tilting-Car-Lift-Vehicle-Ramp-/372904444808
It has a centrally-pivoted X frame, with four extendable, swing-out arms that pick up on jacking points or axles or wishbones.
One electro-hydraulic ram lifts it about 1 metre; another double-acting ram allows the vehicle to tilt up or down, so you can work on either end at head height. Most are 230v mains, but there was also a 12v version. It has a mechanical ratchet interlock and hydraulic load-holding safeties.
There is very little restriction of access to the underside. Best of all, you can drag it outside ( about 300 Kg ) on 2 wheels, if, like me, you don't have enough headroom in your garage. It's magic. Pictures:
https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-miscellaneous-goods/huaberg-autolift-portable-car-lift/1340788156
https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-power-tools/hydraulic-car-tilting-lift-2-ton/1286457637
One was recently offered for sale, it may still be available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hauberg-...t-Tilting-Car-Lift-Vehicle-Ramp-/372904444808
MetalMonkey
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Not had a problem with mine?
I started off with ramps, jacks and axle stands - cheaper to buy yes, but no way would I want to go back unless there is a job I can't do on the lift. Too much faffing about if you want to work on suspension. I wouldn't say safer either, especially if you are going to end up blocking it up to get enough height.
I've got a pit as well, and that was a pain as well as you could never get access where you needed, OK for inspection and that is about it.
ajlelectronics
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A lot of unfounded prejudice against single post. I use mine everyday and I would say that it was more stable than a two post. Everything from three wheelers to my Scorpio estate is lifted and there has never been an issue. I can spin the vehicle around 180 degrees and push it across the workshop out of the way and it doesn't wobble or move in any way. I feel totally safe working under it. Mind you, it is a proper commercial 3 phase lift, much better made than the one illustrated.
