Castolin Castotig 2002 ( mw2000?)

[HughF]

Hi guys.

Now that the old lady is back to life, I'm looking for a RCT F pedal with cable.

I found one set just below 300 euro (excl. transport up to now).
It looks like it's within the price range.
Worth the "go" ?

Or anyone here having a good deal ?

I read too that @. made one by himself (wireless) but did not find a price.
I don't really need a wireless unit ... Even if @richard felt in love with.
I'm almost newbie at TIG and need miles of beads before starting spotting the tiny differences.

Thanks !!

You can copy mine if you want? I will take it apart and get details...

If I don't get round to taking it apart (you know how busy I am), I'll send it to you for copying and you can return it when done. Probably no more than 20 euros each way with dpd or similar.

 

[Macfun]

You can copy mine if you want? I will take it apart and get details...

If I don't get round to taking it apart (you know how busy I am), I'll send it to you for copying and you can return it when done. Probably no more than 20 euros each way with dpd or similar.

Wow, that's sooo kind !
Why not ?
Is it an original or an improved homemade unit (like the brilliant pulse unit you made) ?

I found a 10-pins connector in Germany (see below), but if you know a reference at RS or Mouser or Conrad or ..., it is welcome.
Does the 10-core (or less) cable need special version (noise protection, flexibility, ...) ?

Thanks

 

[HughF]

Mine is an original RCT-F pedal. I use unscreened cable, 12 cores (it is more common) and just use 10 cores. The RS number for the cheapest connector I could find: 547-0426 . You will need a backshell as that is not included in that part number.

 

[Macfun]

Thanks.
I found also the Amphenol B18 connector :
https://befr.rs-online.com/web/p/mil-spec-circular-connectors/0475858/
Hopefully RS provides the link for the backshell.
One thing solved.
No need of connector on pedal box side.

Pedal box itself is just a matter of steel plates.
Good opportunity for welding.

My worrying item is the mechanical link between the pedal and the potentiometer ( cercled in yellow, picture from the Net) ...
This is where inside views of components are helpful !

 

[HughF]

I would do that with a piece of HTD belt, you could get most of the mechatronic parts from a broken printer. Small cog, piece of belt, tension spring etc.

 

[Macfun]

So ... I have the schematics thanks to this forum.


Now I have to think about "how to" transform the pedal travel to 0-F.S. of 2.2 kOhms potentiometer.
That's where inside pictures are welcome.

I believe the switch is "normally-open" when pedal is resting (no foot on it), and closes as soon as pedal is pressed ?
Pedal fully pressed = preset Amperes at front display.

 

[HughF]

So ... I have the schematics thanks to this forum.


Now I have to think about "how to" transform the pedal travel to 0-F.S. of 2.2 kOhms potentiometer.
That's where inside pictures are welcome.

I believe the switch is "normally-open" when pedal is resting (no foot on it), and closes as soon as pedal is pressed ?
Pedal fully pressed = preset Amperes at front display.

I will check the switch, but as you say it is probably normally open.

 

[Macfun]

Obviously RCT-F pedal and TR52-MC pedal are twins ...
Could it be confirmed ?

 

[Macfun]

Both rebuilt, outside panels cleaned and polished !

But what the hell am I gonna do with TWO ?

 

[Jan-DIY]

AAHM.

Got a locked machine....
But with extended code sections(not only 0-9).

Got it running while dumping unbricked Eprom code into a new one.

I would not like to bother me while bruteforceing 0123456789ABCDEFHG i just get a working dump in it.

Now UP- error occurs.

But pre owner did a lot of mess with it.
Primary stage gone in smoke because of faulty Zeners and Shottky.
Now i got a full dump of proms to get further machine fixed..

Not sure if i can post it here because op IP.

the 93LC46 is containing it.....

If anybody is interested in progress:
Leave me a message.

Got tons of machines here which are ready to repair or are already repaired.

 

[Jan-DIY]

Got a new Error:
RCD is tripping.
Y-Caps are blown.
But in case of 22nf and a massive SMPS in its back it is just daily work on.

 

[HughF]

Obviously RCT-F pedal and TR52-MC pedal are twins ...
Could it be confirmed ?

Confirmed, these pedals are identical

 

[HughF]

AAHM.

Got a locked machine....
But with extended code sections(not only 0-9).

Got it running while dumping unbricked Eprom code into a new one.

I would not like to bother me while bruteforceing 0123456789ABCDEFHG i just get a working dump in it.

Now UP- error occurs.

But pre owner did a lot of mess with it.
Primary stage gone in smoke because of faulty Zeners and Shottky.
Now i got a full dump of proms to get further machine fixed..

Not sure if i can post it here because op IP.

the 93LC46 is containing it.....

If anybody is interested in progress:
Leave me a message.

Got tons of machines here which are ready to repair or are already repaired.

Certainly interested in eeprom dumps... Pm me details

 

[Jan-DIY]

Certainly interested in eeprom dumps... Pm me details

Check

 

[Jan-DIY]

Update:
Dump is working fine on my other Castotig.

UP Error is now on task.
Because of burned resistors this should not be a question.

 

[Macfun]

Castolin has a "master" code to override a customer-forgotten one.
Eeprom trick is at another level !

 

[HughF]

Castolin has a "master" code to override a customer-forgotten one.
Eeprom trick is at another level !

EEPROM dump is often an easier way to get round this sort of protection. A favourite trick of Mike Harrison when getting X-Ray machines working

I've also done the EEPROM swap before in VAG dashboards, often faster than getting the vagcom out

 

[Jan-DIY]

Yes.
It takes only a few minutes to swap the chip with hot air.

 

[Jan-DIY]

May it will help somebody with this machines.

UP fault and also RCD tripping is basically solved because somebody blown precharge resistor R1.
RCD tripping maybe not occur.
In this case i got a resistance while cold of 100R which is ratet at 22R.

Pro owner did a lot of mess with this device..


Just for your interest.

 

[Jan-DIY]

What i discovered on parts on Heatsink:
Top left:
Fast double diode for PFC stage.
Seems to be ST STTH Module

Others left.
Ratet at about 50A and 500V (IXFN48N50)

H-Bringe also.
Take care of internal body diode if you try to find a replacement.
Must be very fast and capable for handling high current.

Zener on driver: 18V, or 15V miniMelf
Shottky
BYM13-40


But all that is not guaranteed....


Be careful while measuring on primary side.
Better keep the cap disconnectet.
It will harm you if you got short in circuit.

Jan