Castolin Castotig 2002 ( mw2000?)

[Macfun]

I could have a look if I can take the picture after panel removal.
But you can make it, too !!!

I don't know what's wrong, I got it partly dismantled.
And parts location was a mess.
So now I could refit everything but I have no torch so it is not a priority ..

 

[Macfun]

OK, I just had a quick visit at the workshop for something else, and ...
The letters can be read on the welder connector.
A on the top, then counter-clockwise up to H.
Then the 2 counter pins are "I" above and "J" below.

You can read it carefully if not worn, I did not need a magnifying glass.

 

[Alexandr]

Thnx, will try see it tonight

 

[Alexandr]

You're magician! You've resolved my question!
Thanx! Now will assembly pedal scheme.

 

[Alexandr]

Photo of Pulse controller RCT-P.
Pedal must be connected directly to RCT-P.

 

[Alexandr]

HI! Diagram of pedal is fully working!
5 minuts ago I have finished asembly and checked with welder! torch is normally on&off, and current adjusting working too!

 

[Alexandr]

tig pedal. have found and welded some parts.

 

[Macfun]

I like the "tiny" spanner for fine tuning !!!


Well done, Alexandr !

 

[eddie49]

And I like the non-slip surface of the foot pedal.... !

 

[tom2207]

You may as well go with the new 230i

there must be a whole new thread in that alone....

 

[Macfun]

Hi guys!

I finally took the necessary time to re-assemble the inside parts.
Remember : I got this 2002 ACDC Castotig "as is", with the right power board removed, and all 7 components behind removed without any pre-positionning.
After long search, I accessed another faulty 2002, removed the board and spotted the right position.
Unfortunately I couldn't agree a interesting price with the seller. Another story.

So well, after re-installation and first power-up, the display shows "COD" and "9".
Switching the toggle down (or up), it shows "COD" and "PRO".
After a while and playing with the toggle switch, it then shows 'LOC" and " ".
OFF - ON, "COD" "9" again.
OFF - ON with toggle switch down, I can access the sub-menu. As I've no torch, I can't change anything, but at least this part is alive.
Next OFF - ON, I then got "COD" and "A" instead of "9".
From then, "9" comes back only very briefly at the very last milliseconds after shutdown.

Top power board shows 8 red LEDs ON.
Side boards don't show any LEDs powered.

Here are pictures of today :

 

[Member 32799]

Code lock activated

Factory Code is 321 , turn on , cod , use main current pot to change and toggle switch to confirm ,

8 tryS before new start ,

for lock off torch is needed.

 

[Macfun]

Hi, ., time for me to carefully read the manual, and I found that f....g code lock.
Are there so many people activating this security ?


Hmmm, Bad news ...
I'll ask the Castolin repairman if there is a way ...

"Ih" knob not only shows numbers, but also letters.
Based on the manual, only 0-9 can be used for the lock code.
the "A" probably showed up after me touching the knob.
ALWAYS READ THIS F.....G MANUAL !!!


High number of combinations ... Only 3 digits are possible, nevertheless ...

 

[Member 32799]

No idea what the A means

 

[Macfun]

Fresh update !

Only 3 trials before lock.
Then must switch OFF - ON and restart.
I don't like to repeat OFF - ON but what else could I do ?

And you know what ?




I found the code after only a few trials !!!
I thought "well it's time to spend some hours with good music in the workshop, and try to find it by hand ...".
Even not going 'til the end of the title ...

And now ... I'm wondering if ... this machine was ever faulty ...

Bought being part of a set of non-working machines ...
Me as a gambler (I am usually not, but price was soooo low) ...
Seller not being the owner ... could tell what he wants ...
Maybe stolen, maybe bankruptcy, who knows ...
Maybe ....

Me dreaming of a working machine ...
Time to chase cables and a torch !!
****ty proprietary TIG connector ...

I already thought to go for a more standard DINSE like ... here :
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...attempt-at-de-eurotorching-help-please.53779/

 

[Dutch Welder]

This machine is really easy to de-Euro.
The only thing to take care of is that the Dinse connector you fit is not in any way making contact with the metal structure of the welder itself, as your HF ignition will be very iffy, if it even works.
Binzel do a nice panel mount Dinse connector, with very large plastic discs bewteen the Dinse and the metal, they are good to use.

Torch connections are in pin 1,3 and 4 of the multipin connector.
1 is ground, 3 is up, and 4 is down.

 

[Macfun]

Thanks for the tip, Dutch Welder.

This week I hope I can try MMA tests (at least basic beads).
Friday I have an appointment with a kind Castolin representative (and instructor) to test the TIG functions.

I'll try to temporarily pin the connector to set the code OFF and put the machine in factory configuration.

After that, I'll know if I can go further with Dinse conversion, or check for an original G220 torch (I may have a contact for a good secondhand unit).

 

[Jim Davey]

For an even better chance of the socket not shorting out, take off the Euro connector which leaves a fairly large hole. Cover the hole by bolting in a sheet of 3-4mm tuffnol, then mount your torch socket to that. The tuffnol will act as a good insulator first the socket, especially if you plan on doing a lot of grinding/finishing near the machine.

 

[Macfun]

I checked Tufnol products, there are plenty of versions and components.
Glass fibre and Epoxy resin (white color).
Kraft paper or Cotton and Phenolic resin (brown colour), this one looks like common insulation plate.

Good thing, it's available at RS !

 

[Macfun]

Today PM news.
MMA welding is OK (so far).
Code removed, sub-menus navigation OK.

I was veeeerrrrry lucky, because the manual clearly mentions that we can set the 3-digit code using 0-9 and A to H !!!!