Celica Gen 7 restoration.

Dcal · Mar 15, 2022

Jim881 said:
I can get the 3m roloc pads. I have some already. Would they work or does it need to be sandpaper.
I didn't think neat IPA wasn't great for panel prep?
I found this stuff. Can be had for 20 quid delivered.

I would go with sandpaper.
The Rolock pads run at high speed and can polish the steel, especially after they become worn.
What you want is a nice matte finish with lots of scratches for the primer to lock into.

It's hard to tell what’s in panel wipe.
I even have some water based panel wipe.
What you have linked to should be fine but if you have a local motor factor you should be able to get it a bit cheaper.

Ross365 · Mar 16, 2022

Burdekin said:
I use Upol panel wipe and a final clean with methylated spirits/deionised water 50/50.

Jim's Celica has been parked outside through the winter and will be outside for some time to come. In the month of March, do you really think that wiping it down with water/alcohol is the best way forward?

I looked up the paint you are using Jim and as you say, it's rated for use at low temperatures. But, there is still a warning to stay at least 3'C above dewpoint. Mr Jotun wants no water near his paint during application !

Burdekin · Mar 16, 2022

Ross365 said:
Jim's Celica has been parked outside through the winter and will be outside for some time to come. In the month of March, do you really think that wiping it down with water/alcohol is the best way forward?

I looked up the paint you are using Jim and as you say, it's rated for use at low temperatures. But, there is still a warning to stay at least 3'C above dewpoint. Mr Jotun wants no water near his paint during application !

It's totally not a issue with Jotamastic 90 which is surface tolerant and the meth/water evaporates off. Works very well as a final degreaser before paint.

Burdekin · Mar 16, 2022

For info.

Jotamastic 90 Standard

100'S OF
COLOURS

Jotamastic 90 offers the longest lifetime in any environment. It has exceptional corrosion resistance, is fast drying - greatly improving efficiency, and is designed to be safely applied from 100 to 300 microns in a single coat over a wide temperature and humidity range.
Jotamastic 90 is surface tolerant and can be applied on surfaces that appear dry but where moisture remains and flash rusting has begun. It is ideal for use when blast cleaning is not possible.

Jim881 · Mar 16, 2022

I think my concern has come about from some else doing the same restoration job on his and he has had rust bleed through his primer (121 mastic from rust. Which i believe is jotun smart pack, rebranded)

20220313_144936.thumb.jpg.77eddc79b4e3841eaeca1345a3a206db.jpg

Ross365 · Mar 16, 2022

Why don't you contact Jotun, explained that you used and phosphoric acid as a holding step and ask for their recommendation as to what next?

Burdekin · Mar 16, 2022

Jim881 said:
I think my concern has come about from some else doing the same restoration job on his and he has had rust bleed through his primer (121 mastic from rust. Which i believe is jotun smart pack, rebranded)

View attachment 337812

We use it and other similar products a lot, you paint over rust or don't get a proper coverage there is always the possibility it will rust. Some folk are always looking to do things cheaper, one idea is you could brush on just the one coat over media blasted piping, in no time most were showing rust again. All the rust pitting you have you really want to get in and remove the rust in the pits.

Morrisman · Mar 16, 2022

Ross365 said:
That looks really good. The thing that's a bit worrying though is that you're working outside in February, so the temperature is low but the relative humidity is pretty high. Whatever paint you use, it would be worth looking at the tech data to see what the advice is on that. The usual concern is that you don't get close to the dew-point. But with it back to bare metal, you don't have much option but to paint it anyway. Might be worth (i) try finish painting by mid-afternoon and (ii) getting a covering over the car before the temperature drops too much .

I remember painting a hot rod chassis in a satin black paint called 'Black Magic'. It had been recommended by a couple of guys. I put a nice coat on, and it looked great, so I locked the garage up and went offshore for six weeks. That was in February. (several years ago now)

When I got back from work I flung open the garage doors to start assembly...... and I was utterly gobsmacked to find the chassis was now covered in thousands of little rust bubbles.

The only thing we could all think of was that it had never got warm enough in the concrete garage to dry out fully, but had sat in a damp state for weeks. I sanded it back and threw two coats of black Hammerite on it.

Black Magic (Various Sizes) —Product Browser Specialist UK paint manufacturer Marine Decorative Industrial and <br/>Protective coatings

BMTP00 This product was demonstrated and sold on TV for over 17 (previously exclusively offered by Ideal World). It’s currently available direct from us. Black Magic adheres very well to metal, plastic and glass. It provides a very tough finish with minimal brush marks. It is very easy to apply an

www.flagpaints.co.uk

Ross365 · Mar 16, 2022

Re "Black Magic" - my starting point for considering any paint that will go direct on to metal, i.e. a primer, is to ask, "what are the corrosion-inhibiting chemicals that are in it?" In the past these were things like lead oxide and chromates of some kind. Currently they are more likely to be zinc or zinc phosphate. No inorganic corrosion-inhibiting chemicals, then walk on by swiftly! I also tend to buy paints only from the huge transnational companies who have some serious research labs. Hence my choice of Johnstone's (a very old British company but now part of the huge PPG group) as my supplier and the selection of their zinc phosphate primer and metal-cladding top coat (system). Not a fan of Flag paints.

Jim881 · Apr 1, 2022

I've been thinking about an airless sprayer to achieve a better finish on the underside and also to save time. What are thoughts on airless sprayers? Do you think I could get one to spray jotun on the underside for a budget of around £150?

Burdekin · Apr 1, 2022

Jim881 said:
I've been thinking about an airless sprayer to achieve a better finish on the underside and also to save time. What are thoughts on airless sprayers? Do you think I could get one to spray jotun on the underside for a budget of around £150?

Probably. But just thin it a bit more and use a wee foam roller and a good brush and you’ll get a good finish. There will be places you need to brush anyhow to ensure you get everywhere painted.

Cosantoir · Apr 16, 2022

Jim881 said:
I've been thinking about an airless sprayer to achieve a better finish on the underside and also to save time. What are thoughts on airless sprayers? Do you think I could get one to spray jotun on the underside for a budget of around £150?

I bought one at the start of my project to do a few bits abide not that expensive it really failed to atomise the paint and landed too thick and not fine so really was a poor finish.

On a side note I have to say I've always had a soft spot for the gen7 celicas. My ex had a turbo VVTLI was a cool car