- Thread starter AdrianH
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gerrymoore
CNC expert (well, getting there!)
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Just saw your question regarding removing the ballnut from the screw....don't! I had to remove mine as I needed it the other way around...put the 'sleeve' on as suggested and ended up with 45 little balls on the floor!!! Spent hours trying to get them back in...no luck. Got in touch with Chai at linermotion...he sent me a link to a youtube video (which I've lost) and it explained very well how to do it...I got 44 balls back in so now have a 'spare' ball :-) Works perfectly now but I won't be in a hurry to do it again!!
I'm getting on a bit
Member
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It's ok to remove the nut but before you do you need some round bar the same diameter as the root of the ballscrew or just a tad smaller.
You need two o rings one already on the bar as you unscrew the screw you feed in the bar when screw is fully out add the other I ring so the nut doesn't slide off.
You need two o rings one already on the bar as you unscrew the screw you feed in the bar when screw is fully out add the other I ring so the nut doesn't slide off.
Getting ahead of myself and trying to cut some steel, some issues with it sticking dragging the metal and then not piercing the steel, general bad cuts. Turned out nothing was level so the gap went from no gap to 5mm in places.
So I had an idea, but not what I should have done more a trick to make it arc up!
Next video soon.
Adrian
So I had an idea, but not what I should have done more a trick to make it arc up!
Next video soon.
Adrian
Next clip, blown bulb an all! Will have to make a table or frame for the underneath to hold a cutting area that is flat and level. Need to work on the torch holder, it is not holding the handle good enough as when it sticks it is moving the head over. Possibly need it to be spring loaded as it is a drag tip, will have a sleep on the idea.
Adrian
Adrian
I built up a ladder frame to go underneath the CNC frame and now welded to become part of the whole thing, so getting to be a bit heavier. It has four adjustable feet on the understand so I can level it up, (4 x 10mm bolts with lock nuts). The plan is to build up a cutting tray to sit on this, again with a few adjustable feet on it to allow for fine adjustment.
I have to ask this question though! Do I go for a water tray, or an air tray. I have seen a few videos where the bottom of the metal to be cut is just sat in water, it would keep it cool and I guess the air would blow the water from the arc, but just looks wrong to me?
Adrian
I have to ask this question though! Do I go for a water tray, or an air tray. I have seen a few videos where the bottom of the metal to be cut is just sat in water, it would keep it cool and I guess the air would blow the water from the arc, but just looks wrong to me?
Adrian
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Well it went pop today, the controller that is, think down to an earthing issue when the plasma fired up and not having the controller earthed to the frame earthed to the plasma cutter, I think.
But all three axis stuffed, have chips on order and have also contacted the seller, but not holding out much for that as I am sure cost and time wise it will be a very slow turnaround if ever.
I have ordered another board should be hear by end of week. In the mean time I am adding earth studs to the frame and controller box and will make up some cables to connect all together.
Oh well. onward and upward.
Adrian
But all three axis stuffed, have chips on order and have also contacted the seller, but not holding out much for that as I am sure cost and time wise it will be a very slow turnaround if ever.
I have ordered another board should be hear by end of week. In the mean time I am adding earth studs to the frame and controller box and will make up some cables to connect all together.
Oh well. onward and upward.
Adrian
eSCHEn
Bit Wrangler
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Bugger!
OK I am now part time working so spend generally Monday & Tuesday at home fettling, and the CNC plasma is what I am fettling!
Getting a bit further, can do some cutting now without blowing up the controller hardware. Think it was down to the HF start on the plasma cutter the high voltage took out the electronics as I did not ground between the work piece and the controller. Added the resisters to the tip to always start the arc from about 2mm from the work piece and then drop and drag.
Have an issue with the ball screw (or worm drive, as I called it), needs replacing or re-machining as the ends are off centre.
But here is a simple cut video:-
Adrian
Getting a bit further, can do some cutting now without blowing up the controller hardware. Think it was down to the HF start on the plasma cutter the high voltage took out the electronics as I did not ground between the work piece and the controller. Added the resisters to the tip to always start the arc from about 2mm from the work piece and then drop and drag.
Have an issue with the ball screw (or worm drive, as I called it), needs replacing or re-machining as the ends are off centre.
But here is a simple cut video:-
Adrian
eSCHEn
Bit Wrangler
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- SW Scotland
Dare I say it? Yes, yes I do. That mate, was
MOO-tiful!
That is fantastic Adrian, really impressed! "How 'bout that then?" should be your video signoff always
After a lot more messing tonight I have just got the frame working again, this time the bobbins are gone and I have used two 12mm Silver steel bars.
The carriage and supports were machined from one piece of steel block, all holes drilled, sections milled out and the slit in to four sections, the idea was to keep all in register and within a thou, it seems to have worked.
I did have a moment when I took the ball-nut off the screw and out came the balls! What I said was not repeatable. Under testing the end came off again and more ball loose. Hope they are back in for good but will, I think, have to get another set from China.
All axis are again working and a lot less waddle in the plasma head, also with a few other bits added a more accurate Y axis as the ball screw does not shift when it changes direction.
Bit late to take pictures and I never seem to do when working, will try to remember tomorrow and to earth all back up and try cutting metal again. To be on the safe side I should add limit switches, may save me some grief at some point.
Adrian
The carriage and supports were machined from one piece of steel block, all holes drilled, sections milled out and the slit in to four sections, the idea was to keep all in register and within a thou, it seems to have worked.
I did have a moment when I took the ball-nut off the screw and out came the balls! What I said was not repeatable. Under testing the end came off again and more ball loose. Hope they are back in for good but will, I think, have to get another set from China.
All axis are again working and a lot less waddle in the plasma head, also with a few other bits added a more accurate Y axis as the ball screw does not shift when it changes direction.
Bit late to take pictures and I never seem to do when working, will try to remember tomorrow and to earth all back up and try cutting metal again. To be on the safe side I should add limit switches, may save me some grief at some point.
Adrian
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Your wee problem with the ballscrew... can you use something like a HUCO coupler to allow the motor to drive the screw even though it's running off-centre? Depends on space of course but I generally use them whenever I need a motor to drive a screw on-axis (ie rather than via belt drive).
Looking good otherwise
Looking good otherwise
I originally turned the ends of the screw to 8mm, but did this in the 3 jaw chuck, and in trying to take care not to dent the screw I used some sleeving between the screw and jaws, it meant I was well out by several thou.
Over the past week one of the jobs I did was to refit the collect chuck to the lathe, not as versatile, but runs very true, so turned down the ends of the screw to 6.35mm or 1/4 inch, ordered and got new couplers, and found the screw was also bent! For goodness sake I said
.
So used V blocks and a mallet, it is a lot better, I guess that was a case of handling from China.
So all in all, a lot of tidying and remaking work done, will spend a good hour tomorrow just running the axis from end to end to make sure it is free, then try to get the bench fire proof and get the frame off the floor. Controller wall mounted and have another go at cutting. Gerry says I need to use a water tray, that will be fun.
Cheers
Adrian
Over the past week one of the jobs I did was to refit the collect chuck to the lathe, not as versatile, but runs very true, so turned down the ends of the screw to 6.35mm or 1/4 inch, ordered and got new couplers, and found the screw was also bent! For goodness sake I said
.So used V blocks and a mallet, it is a lot better, I guess that was a case of handling from China
.So all in all, a lot of tidying and remaking work done, will spend a good hour tomorrow just running the axis from end to end to make sure it is free, then try to get the bench fire proof and get the frame off the floor. Controller wall mounted and have another go at cutting. Gerry says I need to use a water tray, that will be fun.
Cheers
Adrian
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