Drilling a Container Lock

[julianf]

The key isn't turning, if it did my post wouldn't exist.

The keyway pins, some/all have seized, I can insert key but it won't turn.

Apologies. I misread. Or mis comprehended. Didn't pay attention etc...

 

[Pete.]

The only thing " stainless " with the lock is the word etched on it, other then that it's all soft metal including the shackle/bolt.

The lock look impressive, other then that, cheap crap and the keyway pins have seized.

I'll give it some heat, a rattle and lube, keep trying with the key, if that fails, drill.

Stainless is actually quite soft. I mean there are different grades and you can get hardenable stainless plus cold working can harden it but in general it is no more hard than ordinary mild steel.

 

[Mark 5]

Stainless is actually quite soft. I mean there are different grades and you can get hardenable stainless plus cold working can harden it but in general it is no more hard than ordinary mild steel.

Sure but these locks are 1kg in weight and were about £8-00 when I purchased it new, it's not SS.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Is there no room for a mini reciprocating saw?

Think I'd cut the eye off and bolt a new eye in...but all depends on the situation on the ground. Hard to judge from just pics.

 

[Mark 5]

Is there no room for a mini reciprocating saw?

Think I'd cut the eye off and bolt a new eye in...but all depends on the situation on the ground. Hard to judge from just pics.

Don't know what you mean by " eye " but can't get to body of lock as it is covered by container lock box.

There is about 8mm of lock showing at bottom of lock box + the lock bolt nub.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Don't know what you mean by " eye "

The bit that's on the body of the container that the lock passes through...I was thinking might be enough room to cut it off with a mini reciprocating saw from behind and that would get the door open.

Then either weld the eye back on...or drill thro and bolt a new eye in place.

 

[Mark 5]

The bit that's on the body of the container that the lock passes through...I was thinking might be enough room to cut it off with a mini reciprocating saw from behind and that would get the door open.

Then either weld the eye back on...or drill thro and bolt a new eye in place.

Ah, thanks I see what you mean.

Hmmm, might be an option if all else fails. I would need a a long, narrow reciprocal blade able to cut through the eye.

 

[indykid]

Some questions that might help to drive towards a solution:

Do you have power on site or does all tooling need to be battery operated?

Is it your container? (Not are you trying to break in to someone else's stuff, but do you own the container - can you modify it after the fact to make good)

If the key goes in but won't turn, either the barrel or something downstream of it is seized, or if it is the pins, it sounds like you have one stuck above the shear line. A pick would give you a good idea if all the pins are moving properly - a seized pin won't have the same spring resistance when you poke it. Not easy to tell if you can't see it, but does the barrel move at all or is it completely solid?

Vibration and lubrication sound like the best bet at the minute, followed by cutting the eye. I'd be cautious of drilling it with anything too hard as if the drill grabs (highly likely) it will probably snap in the body and then you have a stuck broken drill to contend with. HSS is tough at least.

How urgently do you need to get in?

 

[arther dailey]

The bit that's on the body of the container that the lock passes through...I was thinking might be enough room to cut it off with a mini reciprocating saw from behind and that would get the door open.

Then either weld the eye back on...or drill thro and bolt a new eye in place.

good idea , could use a slitting disc on a grinder , but you would need to judge exact height of cut , if possible cutting through between the locking "eyes"(lugs) , other than that as I said previous cut box open ,cut lock, re weld box . @Pigeon_Droppings2 is definatly the better option if you could achieve it , think you will need another container though to work out where to cut.

 

[Mark 5]

Some questions that might help to drive towards a solution:

Do you have power on site or does all tooling need to be battery operated?

Is it your container? (Not are you trying to break in to someone else's stuff, but do you own the container - can you modify it after the fact to make good)

If the key goes in but won't turn, either the barrel or something downstream of it is seized, or if it is the pins, it sounds like you have one stuck above the shear line. A pick would give you a good idea if all the pins are moving properly - a seized pin won't have the same spring resistance when you poke it. Not easy to tell if you can't see it, but does the barrel move at all or is it completely solid?

Vibration and lubrication sound like the best bet at the minute, followed by cutting the eye. I'd be cautious of drilling it with anything too hard as if the drill grabs (highly likely) it will probably snap in the body and then you have a stuck broken drill to contend with. HSS is tough at least.

How urgently do you need to get in?

No power on site and I don't possess welding tools.

Yes I am trying to break in and it's my container.

Solid and seized, see @Dozzer post 10 and my images in first post, it's the exact same lock and brand.

Yes I'm going to try heat, lube, rattle and persevere with key.

If that fails a plan B will be required, can't get to body of lock, if I could a cordless grinder would make short work of it.

@Pigeon_Droppings2 suggestions have given me other options, either a recip' or another, using a jig saw and blade attachment with a cordless drill, combination might just have enough room and reach to cut through eye.

I think keyway pins are brass judging by post 10 video so was going to use a 10mm HSS drill bit but I take your point about the bit snaping, last thing I want.

Damn it! I can be my own worst enemy sometimes, I knew the lock was shiite but I was desperate at the time so threw common sense to the wind.

 

[Erie Fred]

Heating how ?
I would grab a port-a-torch set up and use oxy/acetylene, either melt or blow the body and latch pin right
out, pretty easy to not nick the steel door and guard.

 

[Mark 5]

Heating how ?
I would grab a port-a-torch set up and use oxy/acetylene, either melt or blow the body and latch pin right
out, pretty easy to not nick the steel door and guard.

Was thinking of using my plumbing propane torch for heat.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

There's also the messy option...using either a finger file or die grinder with carbide burr to eat away the lock.

Not a pleasant option though as you'll likely get an eye full of bits flying off.

 

[arther dailey]

No power on site and I don't possess welding tools.

Yes I am trying to break in and it's my container.

Solid and seized, see @Dozzer post 10 and my images in first post, it's the exact same lock and brand.

Yes I'm going to try heat, lube, rattle and persevere with key.

If that fails a plan B will be required, can't get to body of lock, if I could a cordless grinder would make short work of it.

@Pigeon_Droppings2 suggestions have given me other options, either a recip' or another, using a jig saw and blade attachment with a cordless drill, combination might just have enough room and reach to cut through eye.

I think keyway pins are brass judging by post 10 video so was going to use a 10mm HSS drill bit but I take your point about the bit snaping, last thing I want.

Damn it! I can be my own worst enemy sometimes, I knew the lock was shiite but I was desperate at the time so threw common sense to the wind.

Don t beat your self up , we have all made similar mistakes . So how about local hire shop for battery opperated tooling ? obviously none of us realise /know what you have /have nt got , or indeed asking to see if a member is nearby willing to help out..

 

[Nomad]

There's also the messy option...using either a finger file or die grinder with carbide burr to eat away the lock.

Not a pleasant option though as you'll likely get an eye full of bits flying off.

I've been using an 18v (clone) Makita die grinder for outside work, results are good using new cutters but anything more than a quick job needs extra batteries.

 

[Mark 5]

Don t beat your self up , we have all made similar mistakes . So how about local hire shop for battery opperated tooling ? obviously none of us realise /know what you have /have nt got , or indeed asking to see if a member is nearby willing to help out..

I have most cordless tools, ( makita ), to get me out of trouble where there is no power, so no problem there.

I'm going to employ the suggestions above, the bloody thing is coming off!

 

[brightspark]

ive just been offered 150 quid to cut the locks out of a gun safe as they have lost the keys easy with an angle grinder and slitting disks bad news is its 50 miles away

 

[Robotstar5]

ive just been offered 150 quid to cut the locks out of a gun safe as they have lost the keys easy with an angle grinder and slitting disks bad news is its 50 miles away

And you forgot the spanner to change discs

 

[brightspark]

And you forgot the spanner to change discs

dont say that once went hangliding up the yorshire dales one of the best days. went to rig the glider and found id left all the wing battons at home in a bag 120 miles for nothing and no flying

 

[awemawson]

Can you thread a cord round the lower yoke of the lock?
If so, diamond paste pressed into the cord and saw it off like those two handed flexible tree saws they sell for camping or on a larger scale like they sawed the Kursk in half with a hawser that had abrasive collars threaded on.
(Yes industrial diamond paste is available - no need to crush the wife's engagement ring!)