Robbie260
I fix things that others have broken
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That is a lovely looking lathe.
- Thread starter Mike Pinches
- Start date
That is a lovely looking lathe.
Mike Pinches
Member
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- 138
- Location
- North Wales
Today I decided to have a quick check of what condition the bed is in. I had intended ordering a surface plate from cutwel when they had 3 for 2 on insize products but by the time I got round to it I had missed the offer. I have been putting it off hoping they start the offer again. There fore instead of placing the bed on a surface plate and running a DTI over it I took measurements of the ways with a couple of micrometers. The rear way I measured the thickness top to bottom as there are 2 machined surfaces. The front way has a dovetail so I couldn't measure directly between 2 parallel machined surfaces, I therefor measured the width at the top of the dovetail to the internal machined face. I measured at 1" intervals along the whole bed.
My 0-1" micrometer only measures to 0.001" so on the rear way the highest reading I got was 0.753" and the smallest was 0.749" (I remeasured after the photo was taken as the first couple of measurements seemed off in relation to everything else). Most of the readings where between 0.749" and 0.750", and on reading the micrometer it was often a challenge to decide I they were closer to one or the other, so would guess most where close to 0.7495". That level of consistancy was better than I was expecting given the state of everything else. On the front way my 1-2" micrometer does measure to 0.0001" so I could get more accurate readings (not that I think where I measured is ideal as I expect most ware to have taken place on the dovetail face). Here I had readings from 1.2435" to 1.2494.
Over the next few days I aim to finish cleaning parts up and to start measuring the ware on the cross slide and compound slides.
My 0-1" micrometer only measures to 0.001" so on the rear way the highest reading I got was 0.753" and the smallest was 0.749" (I remeasured after the photo was taken as the first couple of measurements seemed off in relation to everything else). Most of the readings where between 0.749" and 0.750", and on reading the micrometer it was often a challenge to decide I they were closer to one or the other, so would guess most where close to 0.7495". That level of consistancy was better than I was expecting given the state of everything else. On the front way my 1-2" micrometer does measure to 0.0001" so I could get more accurate readings (not that I think where I measured is ideal as I expect most ware to have taken place on the dovetail face). Here I had readings from 1.2435" to 1.2494.
Over the next few days I aim to finish cleaning parts up and to start measuring the ware on the cross slide and compound slides.
Carl Wilson
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Very interesting, I've got a Drummond Model B too, that I inherited from my Uncle. In actual fact I have two, another one I bought for spares is stored at my brother's place. The one I got from my Uncle is in pieces, and I'm a long way from being able to start any restoration work on it. I'm currently concentrating on my Harrison Mill. The bed on my Drummond had a lot of localised pitting corrosion where the saddle had been sat for decades, trapping moisture in that position.
When I do start restoring my Drummond I'm sure this thread will be an excellent reference.
When I do start restoring my Drummond I'm sure this thread will be an excellent reference.
Mike Pinches
Member
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- 138
- Location
- North Wales
I got quite lucky that even though the saddle and the tailstock hadn't moved in a long time there isn't really any pitting, it was all just light surface corrosion.
Once I have finished the Drummond and built a new workshop I intend on getting a mill and one of the possibilities on the list is a Harrison. They look like nice machines, though from what I have read the spindle speed is a bit low by modern standards.
Carl Wilson
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- Moray
The corrosion on the bed of my Drummond is not too bad, I'm probably overstating it a bit. The one I have has a bit of a chequered history. My Uncle rescued it from a landfill site where it was about to be ploughed under for future archaeologists to find.
It was made in 1919 and has had a hard time of it. After my Uncle got it, it sat in his garage for 35 years before he gave it to me. They were the easiest 35 years of it's life.
The top speed of my Harrison Mill is nominally 1500rpm. That's with a 4 pole motor on 50hz 3 phase. I'm going to be running the motor from a 240 volt vfd, so I will be able to get a bit more by increasing the top frequency a little.
Mike Pinches
Member
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- 138
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- North Wales
It does sound like your b type had a hard first 100 years. Not sure what the history is woth mine other than it sitting in a friends garage unused for years.
1500rpm on the harrison sounds useable to me. They look like they are a rigid machine for their size, don't think I have room for anything larger. Hopefully I can start looking for one seriously towards the end of the year.
Carl Wilson
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Yes, the Harrison Mill is built like a brick shipyards toilet.
The pure horizontal ones tend to come up quite often, the best one to get (in my opinion) is a horizontal with vertical attachment. Then you get the best of both worlds. There are also pure vertical types but they seem rarer.
If you buy a horizontal with vertical attachment, make sure it comes with the overarm, support and arbour for horizontal work.
There are a few of us on the forum with these machines. I invite you to take a look at my thread on here where I describe restoring my machine. This is very much a work in progress. I've tried to write, photograph and structure the thread such that it may serve as a reference for other Harrison Mill owners.
The pure horizontal ones tend to come up quite often, the best one to get (in my opinion) is a horizontal with vertical attachment. Then you get the best of both worlds. There are also pure vertical types but they seem rarer.
If you buy a horizontal with vertical attachment, make sure it comes with the overarm, support and arbour for horizontal work.
There are a few of us on the forum with these machines. I invite you to take a look at my thread on here where I describe restoring my machine. This is very much a work in progress. I've tried to write, photograph and structure the thread such that it may serve as a reference for other Harrison Mill owners.
Mike Pinches
Member
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- 138
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- North Wales
Thanks, I will take a look at your thread. It will no doubt be a good reference if and when I end up getting a Harrison as no doubt a mill of that age will require some work.
Mike Pinches
Member
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- 138
- Location
- North Wales
I remembered that I haven't updated this thread in a while, hadn't realised how long it had been, and how little I have accomplished in that time. I have cleaned up the bed, change wheels, headstock and a few other small parts and got them repainted. I started cleaning up the saddle last night. Hopefully I will manage to finish cleaning the last few parts ready for paint over the next week.
I still need to decide what to do about a bit of wear to the topslide, it's travel gets quite stiff towards the end of it's extension. I could leave it on the theory I probably won't be using all it's range most of the time. Or I can try and even it out. I know the correct way to go about it would be to scrape it, unfortunately I don't have any idea what I'm doing so may not end well, may keep an eye out for a course at some point. My other option would be to go at it gently with a diamond file, though not sure if that's a good plan.
I still need to decide what to do about a bit of wear to the topslide, it's travel gets quite stiff towards the end of it's extension. I could leave it on the theory I probably won't be using all it's range most of the time. Or I can try and even it out. I know the correct way to go about it would be to scrape it, unfortunately I don't have any idea what I'm doing so may not end well, may keep an eye out for a course at some point. My other option would be to go at it gently with a diamond file, though not sure if that's a good plan.
Carl Wilson
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Someone up thread (I forget who) said forget about finding drawings for these machines.
I've got a full set of drawings which I will gladly loan to you. I am going to be away for a few weeks for work, so it won't be immediate.
Let me know where to send them in a conversation.
I've got a full set of drawings which I will gladly loan to you. I am going to be away for a few weeks for work, so it won't be immediate.
Let me know where to send them in a conversation.
Hi I know this is an old thread but i'm delighted to find this forum. I'm in need of some help in getting an old Drummond admiralty B lathe (without the powered apron) up and running. If anyone has drawings i could use, i would appreciate it it. It has a missing piece that would make the automatic feed for the saddle work, there's something that would have connected the cog from the main drive to the saddle screw (which is held in some form or keyed cylinder in one end but the cylinder is empty the other end facing the cog) that has either broken or got lost. It probably would have been a keyed cylinder of around 16mm but I cant find any drawings to see how it worked and how it would have connected to the the cog or which cog it would have gone on. Once i have this sorted i can look at what order the cogs need to go in to cut screws, but first things first. thanks for the help
Hi Carl, Would they show the piece i'm looking for perhaps ? if so are you able to share a photo of this section?
Hi I know this is an old thread but i'm delighted to find this forum. I'm in need of some help in getting an old Drummond admiralty B lathe (without the powered apron) up and running. If anyone has drawings i could use, i would appreciate it it. It has a missing piece that would make the automatic feed for the saddle work, there's something that would have connected the cog from the main drive to the saddle screw (which is held in some form or keyed cylinder in one end but the cylinder is empty the other end facing the cog) that has either broken or got lost. It probably would have been a keyed cylinder of around 16mm but I cant find any drawings to see how it worked and how it would have connected to the the cog or which cog it would have gone on. Once i have this sorted i can look at what order the cogs need to go in to cut screws, but first things first. thanks for the help
zx9
Forum Supporter
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If you have not yet found it, the Drummond IO groups is the place to ask, there are many Drummond users and a lot of drawings / documentation which should be helpful.
groups.io
drummondlathe groups.io Group
Drummond Brothers built lathes in England between 1902 and 1942, when Myford took over the company under wartime conditions. Despite the age of these lathes, a surprising number of them are still in use. This group is for Drummond (all types) and Myford M Type lathe owners to share photos...
groups.io
Martin Hocking
Member
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- 393
- Location
- Norfolk
I wouldn’t be surprised if you’re after these two parts…
Sorry I had to screen grab one. They can be found on the Drummond groups page. In the files section.
Sorry I had to screen grab one. They can be found on the Drummond groups page. In the files section.
hi all thanks for the speedy responses and support, i have taken some photos that will perhaps better explain what i'm trying to understand. this is my lathe, and the quesions i have around the left hand side of the lead screw
In the last photo i have taken out the coupler to better illustrate. What ever connects to the left hand side of the coupler is missing. this is a view from the cogs perspective and looking in you can hopefully see the way the coupler is presenting itself
Martin Hocking
Member
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- 393
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- Norfolk
Hiya taz, the part you need is the first drawing I posted above. It’s drawn as an m-type part but I think it’s the same.
