Rick Moore
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Made a PDF.
How do I load a PDF of the Manual here ?
- Thread starter Smouser
- Start date
How do I load a PDF of the Manual here ?
Smouser
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- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Otherwise, pm or email me, I will then upload it to google drive and share it.
Rick Moore
New Member
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- Beverley Uk
Elliot TV2 Manual
Smouser
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Thank you Rick for scanning and uploading the manual, you are a legend.
You did an awesome job on the refurbishment of your mill too!
Thanks again.
Smouser
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A small update.
After I rewired both motors to DELTA and treated them to a little bit of paint, I got the slotting machine going.
I serviced the mill a little during the week by cleaning a few things, oiling everything up, and sorting the quill and return spring.
Everything seem to work - auto feed - up, down and disnengage. The handwheel works and the 'starwheel' can be engaged/disengaged to move the quill up and down.
The machine did sound a bit clunky. Something to investigate. See below for a quick unedited/raw video.
Today I had my first go at milling a slot in a scrap bit of metal - it is worth saying that nothing is set up yet. The head tilt and the vice still needs to be dialled in but I had to try the mill.
Attempt 1
The first of many broken milling bits I suspect.
The mill did sound better here. Not sure where the clunking sound went
Attempt 2 with a slightly bigger milling bit (3/16")
It was a bit difficult to hold the camera and to feed the table but at least I got it recorded.
The result
I think the milling marks at the beginning of the slot were still from the smaller diameter cutter. I must not have gone deep enough with the second cutter to remove them.
LOTS and LOTS to learn.
After I rewired both motors to DELTA and treated them to a little bit of paint, I got the slotting machine going.
I serviced the mill a little during the week by cleaning a few things, oiling everything up, and sorting the quill and return spring.
Everything seem to work - auto feed - up, down and disnengage. The handwheel works and the 'starwheel' can be engaged/disengaged to move the quill up and down.
The machine did sound a bit clunky. Something to investigate. See below for a quick unedited/raw video.
Today I had my first go at milling a slot in a scrap bit of metal - it is worth saying that nothing is set up yet. The head tilt and the vice still needs to be dialled in but I had to try the mill.
Attempt 1
The mill did sound better here. Not sure where the clunking sound went
Attempt 2 with a slightly bigger milling bit (3/16")
It was a bit difficult to hold the camera and to feed the table but at least I got it recorded.
The result
I think the milling marks at the beginning of the slot were still from the smaller diameter cutter. I must not have gone deep enough with the second cutter to remove them.
LOTS and LOTS to learn.
Smouser
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- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
A small update to the milling machine.
It STILL desperately requires stripping down and repainting but I think I have got it good enough mechanically to actually use the machine.
When I took off the motors to dig the starpoint out so I could wire them the motors to DELTA I quickly painted them.
The lighting in the garage leaves much to be desired so the photos taken in the garage do not accurately represent the paint's colour.
However, it was cold in the garage and the paint did not seem to dry fast enough for my liking, so I temporarily moved the painted bits inside to the dining room table much to the disgust of my wife.
Next on the list was a metric drawbar which I needed to use to hold the ER40 chuck in the spindle.
The quick and dirty fix is M14 threaded bar with a 'nut' made out of hex bar on the lathe.
It STILL desperately requires stripping down and repainting but I think I have got it good enough mechanically to actually use the machine.
When I took off the motors to dig the starpoint out so I could wire them the motors to DELTA I quickly painted them.
The lighting in the garage leaves much to be desired so the photos taken in the garage do not accurately represent the paint's colour.
However, it was cold in the garage and the paint did not seem to dry fast enough for my liking, so I temporarily moved the painted bits inside to the dining room table much to the disgust of my wife.
Next on the list was a metric drawbar which I needed to use to hold the ER40 chuck in the spindle.
The quick and dirty fix is M14 threaded bar with a 'nut' made out of hex bar on the lathe.
Smouser
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I then decided to install a cheap RPM meter you can get on ebay/Aliexpress/Amazon.
I got a small aluminium enclosure to house the display in and used the milling machine to mill the area required for the display.
I wired it all up and mounted the little box on a bracket to the side of the machine and the sensor at the back of the spindle.
I am getting a 1675rpm reading when the milling machine is set at the 1630rpm speed.
I got a small aluminium enclosure to house the display in and used the milling machine to mill the area required for the display.
I wired it all up and mounted the little box on a bracket to the side of the machine and the sensor at the back of the spindle.
I am getting a 1675rpm reading when the milling machine is set at the 1630rpm speed.
Smouser
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The next to sort was the handles/spokes on the starwheel. They were looking rough, were of different lengths and were actually too long, they fouled the table when the table was in a high position.
I don't seem to have a good photo of the handles but they can be seen on some of the previous photos I posted.
I got some stainless steel and learned how to cut some threads on the Mighty Warco lathe.
Test fit
Happy enough with that.
It was around this time that I decided I need a power feed for the table.
So I got myself a genuine Wen Ding power feed
It is 'designed' for a Bridgeport machine so some fettling was required to make it fit on the Elliott.
Of course, all the holes of the bracket on the Wen Ding did not line up with the Elliott so I butchered the bracket a little to make it fit.
This whole process took much longer than I thought it would but it was in and working well.
I don't seem to have a good photo of the handles but they can be seen on some of the previous photos I posted.
I got some stainless steel and learned how to cut some threads on the Mighty Warco lathe.
Test fit
Happy enough with that.
It was around this time that I decided I need a power feed for the table.
So I got myself a genuine Wen Ding power feed
It is 'designed' for a Bridgeport machine so some fettling was required to make it fit on the Elliott.
Of course, all the holes of the bracket on the Wen Ding did not line up with the Elliott so I butchered the bracket a little to make it fit.
This whole process took much longer than I thought it would but it was in and working well.
Smouser
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- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
At this stage, I was still running the machine with a VFD just lying loose on the side of the machine.
It was time to mount the VFD in the previously identified space.
The original plan was as follows:
Use a 'dumb' VFD from Vevor. On some of the Vevor VFDs, you do not have to put the power rating, amperage or rpm of the motor you want to drive into the parameters. In fact, there are no parameters on those VFDs where you can input that information.
You basically need to set the voltage and Hz of the motor and you are ready to (obviously these VFDs have got much less protection for the motor).
Therefore, I thought it would be good to use Vevor VFD so that I use one VFD to power both the mill and also the slotting attachment.
This is what I came up with on the outside.
Starting at the top:
1. 240v Power input and a feed going to the Wen Ding power feed
2. A normal 440v socket mounted to the door (so I can switch between the mill's motor and the slotting head's motor)
3. Two panel mount 'aviation-style sockets' one to provide power to the RPM meter and the other for the VFD control station (start, stop, potentiometer etc.)
In theory, all I needed to do to switch over between the mill and the slotting head was to unplug the 440v plug and plug the other motor's plug in and swap the control cable on the aviation plug.
However, in the end, I did not go with the 'dumb' Vevor VFD (no stock until April) and I installed a different VFD in the enclosure.
The Mitsubishi VFD requires parameters changing for different motors and will not work correctly if I simply swap the plugs over.
Here you can see the VFD mounted and the small power supply for the RPM meter.
Unfortunately, there is just not enough room for the VFD's front cover to fit and the door to close so I kept that off.
Next up was trying to improve some of the backlash on the Y Axis.
With me now being able to cut threads on the lathe (internal ones too
) I got some bronze bar to replace the 8 ACME LH nut insert on the leadscrew.
Except, there was no insert. The thread was cut directly into the bracket the leadscrew runs in.
I got the bracket in the 4 jaw chuck on the Mighty Warco and tried my best to dial it in true. I used some PTFE tape on the thread to take up some slop/wiggle to help me to dial it in.
Test fit
It was time to mount the VFD in the previously identified space.
The original plan was as follows:
Use a 'dumb' VFD from Vevor. On some of the Vevor VFDs, you do not have to put the power rating, amperage or rpm of the motor you want to drive into the parameters. In fact, there are no parameters on those VFDs where you can input that information.
You basically need to set the voltage and Hz of the motor and you are ready to (obviously these VFDs have got much less protection for the motor).
Therefore, I thought it would be good to use Vevor VFD so that I use one VFD to power both the mill and also the slotting attachment.
This is what I came up with on the outside.
Starting at the top:
1. 240v Power input and a feed going to the Wen Ding power feed
2. A normal 440v socket mounted to the door (so I can switch between the mill's motor and the slotting head's motor)
3. Two panel mount 'aviation-style sockets' one to provide power to the RPM meter and the other for the VFD control station (start, stop, potentiometer etc.)
In theory, all I needed to do to switch over between the mill and the slotting head was to unplug the 440v plug and plug the other motor's plug in and swap the control cable on the aviation plug.
However, in the end, I did not go with the 'dumb' Vevor VFD (no stock until April) and I installed a different VFD in the enclosure.
The Mitsubishi VFD requires parameters changing for different motors and will not work correctly if I simply swap the plugs over.
Here you can see the VFD mounted and the small power supply for the RPM meter.
Unfortunately, there is just not enough room for the VFD's front cover to fit and the door to close so I kept that off.
Next up was trying to improve some of the backlash on the Y Axis.
With me now being able to cut threads on the lathe (internal ones too
) I got some bronze bar to replace the 8 ACME LH nut insert on the leadscrew.Except, there was no insert. The thread was cut directly into the bracket the leadscrew runs in.
I got the bracket in the 4 jaw chuck on the Mighty Warco and tried my best to dial it in true. I used some PTFE tape on the thread to take up some slop/wiggle to help me to dial it in.
Test fit
Smouser
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The insert nut is a very tight 'push fit' with a shoulder on one side. I also used some Locktite 270 (which I had in a drawer) and installed a grub screw to hopefully keep the nut in place.
Overall I have improved the backlash by about 50%.
It is still not 'perfect', there must be some wear to the lead screw too, especially in the middle part of the screw. The previous thread that was in the cast iron bracket wore away but it also wore the leadscrew a little.
Next up was installing a DRO. I definitely need a DRO to have any chance of making anything resembling accurate.
A China LCD DRO system and scales were purchased on ebay and I installed them.
I could not get in close enough with my drill to drill the holes on the underside of the table for the bracket for the scale.
Screwfix promptly relieved me of £25 and I had a solution!
I installed the X axis scale behind the table (because it is crowded at the front of the table) and lost about 55mm of travel on the Y axis which I can live with.
While I was drilling holes everywhere in the mill castings I decided to fit a chip guard/way guard too.
This is simply a 3mm rubber sheet clamped between aluminium bars.
I still need to install the Z axis scale.
Finally, I do want to thank @RobCox for suffering my many messages asking for help and advice (from thread cutting to installing the DRO and everything else in between). He really has helped me LOADS during the last few months.
Overall I have improved the backlash by about 50%.
It is still not 'perfect', there must be some wear to the lead screw too, especially in the middle part of the screw. The previous thread that was in the cast iron bracket wore away but it also wore the leadscrew a little.
Next up was installing a DRO. I definitely need a DRO to have any chance of making anything resembling accurate.
A China LCD DRO system and scales were purchased on ebay and I installed them.
I could not get in close enough with my drill to drill the holes on the underside of the table for the bracket for the scale.
Screwfix promptly relieved me of £25 and I had a solution!
I installed the X axis scale behind the table (because it is crowded at the front of the table) and lost about 55mm of travel on the Y axis which I can live with.
While I was drilling holes everywhere in the mill castings I decided to fit a chip guard/way guard too.
This is simply a 3mm rubber sheet clamped between aluminium bars.
I still need to install the Z axis scale.
Finally, I do want to thank @RobCox for suffering my many messages asking for help and advice (from thread cutting to installing the DRO and everything else in between). He really has helped me LOADS during the last few months.
I’ve done a few projects in work with them
Smouser
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There are some other little things I have also done that I have not mentioned yet.
I Installed a digital vernier-style scale on the quill. The display has got a magnet mount and I literally just stuck it onto the mill in the first position I could find.
I am planning to come up with a better solution later.
The dials were in a pretty rough condition and I thought I would have a go at nickel electro-plating them after seeing @RobCox results on his Elliott Shaper.
I cleaned them up and this is what I ended up with.
There was some corrosion and damage on the dials but they cleaned up pretty well.
I prepared a nickel solution and I was ready to try some plating.
Except, the part did not fit in the jar
Not to worry, I knew my wife had some glass bowls in the kitchen.
This is what I ended up with.
Hopefully, no more rust!
I Installed a digital vernier-style scale on the quill. The display has got a magnet mount and I literally just stuck it onto the mill in the first position I could find.
I am planning to come up with a better solution later.
The dials were in a pretty rough condition and I thought I would have a go at nickel electro-plating them after seeing @RobCox results on his Elliott Shaper.
I cleaned them up and this is what I ended up with.
There was some corrosion and damage on the dials but they cleaned up pretty well.
I prepared a nickel solution and I was ready to try some plating.
Except, the part did not fit in the jar
Not to worry, I knew my wife had some glass bowls in the kitchen.
This is what I ended up with.
Hopefully, no more rust!
Agroshield
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Make (3DP with jigsaw connections or plywood and a different jigsaw) a hollow rectangular spacer with rounded corners to space the door outwards a little and use longer screws in the hinges and securing bolt.
Smouser
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That is a pretty good idea. I won't need a thick spacer either, 3- 5mm will probably be enough.
I don't have a 3D printer, it will have to be plywood or similar or ask one of my friends to print it.
Agroshield
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With the power feed, it is worth finding out what happens at each end of its travel. I guess there are settable limit switches on the front of the machine, but what happens if one of those slips or you forget to tighten it? You need a failsafe. At the motor end, you could install an extra switch in series so if the motor gets too close to the knee casting, it cuts itself off. Do something similar at the other end (but maybe in that direction the leadscrew will just unthread itself from the nut and no harm will come).
With the Y-travel limited by the DRO scale, you might need a hard stop there so vigorous or over-enthusiastic handle turning does not crush the scale.
With the Y-travel limited by the DRO scale, you might need a hard stop there so vigorous or over-enthusiastic handle turning does not crush the scale.
Smouser
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Thank you, all good ideas and definitely worth considering.
However, I slightly protest against the idea of a failsafe for the power feed.
The limit switches have been installed on the 'max travel' positions in both directions. They are my safety stops - I don't move them and I don't run the table into them. While using the powerfeed, I do not leave the machine unattended so I am sure the limit switches will be more than adequate. By installing some more limit switches you are doubling up on safety for the powerfeed - time probably better spent in making other aspects safer first.
It looks like the handle will hit the table too in the one direction if the limit switch were to fail (untested).
A hard stop for the Y axis travel makes sense and something I will probably install in the future (probably a simple bit of an aluminium spacer bolted to the rear of the table). However, the last ~100mm or so of travel of the Y axis towards the column of the milling machine is noticeably much tighter than the rest of the travel positions. I guess it is where the ways, the table and the leadscrew have worn much less than the rest of the machine due to that position so close to the column being used much less. That is the first 'safety feature' protecting the scale.
The second 'safety feature' is the scale dust cover which is installed over the scale to protect it. While you could potentially crush the dust cover if you keep on winding the table towards the column it is pretty unlikely as the handwheel will become very tight before you actually crush the dust shield.
Smouser
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The mill came with a handwheel (not standard/original) on the Z axis to raise and lower the knee. It was less than ideal to raise and lower the knee with a small handwheel as the knee is pretty heavy.
I bought a crank handle (for an unknown machine) on ebay a couple of months ago to replace the handwheel but I needed an adapter.
I used my dividing head as a rotary table and milled to a depth of about 1mm to make sure I have the dimensions correct.
Once I was happy with the fit, I milled the rest of the material away.
Test fit
It works perfectly and I can now raise and lower the knee much easier and faster.
I bought a crank handle (for an unknown machine) on ebay a couple of months ago to replace the handwheel but I needed an adapter.
I used my dividing head as a rotary table and milled to a depth of about 1mm to make sure I have the dimensions correct.
Once I was happy with the fit, I milled the rest of the material away.
Test fit
It works perfectly and I can now raise and lower the knee much easier and faster.
