Arcoftheearth
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not too keen on them myself.. ive got bohler 6013s for around the same price on ebay.
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Kent
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OK 46-30 and E6013 are the same thing, though I get lost with different codes myself - cheap enough that though ! been using these quite a bit of late as I can only get Murex in smaller boxes now and they are both the same company. Good all positional rod IMO
iwalski
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The rod of choice for general welding (Carbon) is tenicito 38R...5mm( rod size depending on material thickness).. 5mm = less work more play...that's what I was told anyway... We do alot of work f oil and gas industry.. Which means I stumbled on the best rods iv ever used... (inconel..special metals)...no tailing in or digging stop starts... They lay a awesome cap...n i also lik fishing rods but thtz another story
Cheers guys scotty
Cheers guys scotty
Wendelspanswick
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What are the Esab's like?
wheresmejumper
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Ive never liked any Lincoln 6013. Low hydrogen and cellulose yes but rutile no
Kent
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I have been using 46-30 ESAB for a while, like them for any 6013 jobs. They are not downhill welding rated but for non critical stuff they are ok and can put a decent looking bead in
Sort of. I bought a box off ebay a year or so back for about £15 inc postage.
I tried a few and thought they were fierce and a bit strange, but they seem like quality rods with the holder end tipped white. Looking them up they are RC rods specially designed for vertical down. The diagram on the box showed a strong down arrow and the other arrows lighter. 6013s are supposed to be all positional, most are claimed to do vertical up, most RCs are claimed to do vertical down.
I haven't tried these vertical down, in fact I haven't touched the arc welders at all for quite a few months.
I wouldn't advise anyone to buy the D6 at those prices if they are looking for a general purpose 6013.
My favourite is Elga P45S. The last batch I bought doesn't seem as good as the old ones I was given. Cheapo UTP/Bohler Phoenix 6013 are pretty good as are White Box Murex (which I think are the same as ESAB 46.30). Siftrode are also good.
The makers, at least the reputable ones, do put out specs for these things and design them for different purposes. The much praised Fincord M isn't the only 6013 Oerlikon ever made, there are also Overcords etc, and the M isn't the only Fincord.
HughF
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Gareth J
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I'm really struggling with a couple boxes of these now. Just opened them and the 3mm rod dissapears that far inside the coating you have to smash it off before you can restart again. Leaves a really "glassy" slag. 4mm are better on restarts but both fussy with galv which is about all I use stick for unfortunately.
wheresmejumper
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What you describe is normally the characteristics of a low hydrogen rod.is there a black cap on the end?
Gareth J
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Black cap on the end where? One of the boxes has yellow paint on the ends of the rods. They are both labeled 6013 among other codes
wheresmejumper
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Low hydrogen burn up inside the flux,so you need to brak off a few mm of flux to restrike.
the welding end of a new lohy has a little bit of carbon on it to help ignite it.
if your rods arent lohy the may be rutile-basic,it might explain the glassy slag,but ive never used one that didnt restrike easy
the welding end of a new lohy has a little bit of carbon on it to help ignite it.
if your rods arent lohy the may be rutile-basic,it might explain the glassy slag,but ive never used one that didnt restrike easy
Gareth J
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Thanks for the pointers. I don't remember a black tip but I'll check. I might see if the shop will exchange these as a box lasts me ages and restarting is pretty essential - especially for galv where I tend whack the heat up a bit and lay down a series of tacs
Kent
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As suggested those are low Hydrogen rods I feel sure. A couple of tips to help you burn through them
1. if restarting very soon flick the rod sharply on breaking the arc and it takes the slag end off to a degree (it must be while glowing hot)
2. file in re-starts. Take the half burned rod out and restart with new, before you finish the job the rods will have cooled file in the ends of the 1/2 rods and use them up or save them for the next job if its non critical stuff not actually requiring a lo hy
3. Slam the rod in to break through the flux in the area your about to weld over dragging it to the start then reverse into the weld run. Not really much cop for tacks mind you.
cheap 6013 rods on slightly higher than normal power settings are ideal for tacks. I keep a few super six rods for this sort of thing! The better the rod the better and more even and well applied the flux coating and to a degree this retards a good quick start.
wheresmejumper
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Yeah theyre rutile-basic.a 6013 with slight low hydrogen characteristic.never tried em though
Kent
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I am surprised your getting bad starts with them in 6013, perhaps its lack of practice? Just bump the setting up to max recommended and work down, when tacking I like things pretty hot on the dial so I just jab in with a touch and wait a sec. Also I tack with smaller rods quite commonly as you don't want big cold lumps to go over when your just trying to tack it
Gareth J
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While I don't do a lot of stick welding, it can only be the rods as changing back to another cheap pack I had on the go on another site, it was back to business as usual, same everything else.
I'm always on the hot side, I forget the exact setting I was using, but was welding some galv pipe, probably about 3mm thick at around 140amps with the 3.2s. Weld a blob, enough to burn the galv back and fuse the steel, wait for the glow to die down, weld another blob on the back of the last and so on. With a bit of practice its not too hard to leave a decent weld without having to grind off all the galv or chip slag inbetween tacks. What is critical though is being able to strick the next tack at just the right time, if it doesn't fire up straight away, often you lose the place or the metal cools down plenty enough.
Dimitri De Spiegeleer
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Just FYI: welding over galv steel is bad for both your health and the quality of your welds. It's done regularly, though. Make sure the area is well ventilated...
