123hotchef
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- Kent
DO NOT CUT THE OLD ONE.
E bay it or donate to local museum.
Screw Fix, tool station or contact your local fire extinguisher company.
really is it that unique
DO NOT CUT THE OLD ONE.
E bay it or donate to local museum.
Screw Fix, tool station or contact your local fire extinguisher company.
Yellow ardvark is your fire extinguisher expert. I'm sure he'll be along soon, after he's finished doing stuf ...........I thought would test one of the old ones out today from the garage and it worked! shame it could not be stopped,
I did not know that they had a co2 cylinder in side that propelled the water out! Can they be refilled and a new co2 cylinder fitted or is it not worth it?
I also did know realise the CO2 extinguishers are made from ali either after taking one apart.
Yellow ardvark is your fire extinguisher expert. I'm sure he'll be along soon, after he's finished doing stuf ...........
@123hotchef
Any complete pre 1970 extinguishers I worth a bit of ££££. They are collected for tv shows.
Not all CO2 are alloy, some are steel. Alloy is most common. But be careful when taking them to scrap yards. not all with take them
The newer water type have a fancy diffuser nozzle so you get more effective coverage from the same volume of water and a greater capability. CA ones are charged to 10 bar through a standard Schraeder valve, the label colour denotes the usage to comply with BS 476;
Red. Water- Class A, Carbonaceous fires (Paper, wood, cardboard, natural textiles etc).
Cream, Foam- Class B, Carbonaceous and Running liquids/burning fat.
Black, CO2- Class C, Carbonaceous, liquids and flammable gases
Blue, Class D- Powder, Carbonaceous, liquids, gas and metal fires.
Green (was Halon), flammable liquids, now replaced by Black, CO2.
There isn't actually an electrical class as it's something that's involved in a fire so you're not actually trying to put it out, the idea is to isolate it first then use the appropriate extinguisher for the class involved.
Points to note:
Don't ever try to use a CO2 without it's horn, you'll just accelerate the combustion and keep your hands away from it as it freezes in operation.
If you use foam on a liquid start at the nearest point and form a blanket to flow away from you, make sure it settles on the liquid gently so as not to splash and cause injury or further seats of fire.
Powder is hugely messy and will ruin other electrical apparatus in the vicinity, it will also quickly fill a small area and make the atmosphere unbreathable.
CO2 is best used in pairs and again is capable of quickly degrading the atmosphere.
If you need to use one make sure that you are at your means of escape so you get out of there quickly if it all starts going wrong.
I have various size powder ones as that's what I've been told to use when soldering in people's houses, do I really need others? No mention of it in my liability insurance which surprised me
CO2 is best used in a minimum of 2 and again is capable of quickly degrading the atmosphere.
If you need to use one make sure that you are at your means of escape so you get out of there quickly if it all starts going wrong.
i always was told to never fight a fire thery are for you to ade in your escape if you had an exit just leave
and no if it was just a small fire yes i would put it out but all training i had over the years thats all they would say
I think fire extinguishers have two purposes one to help you get out of a building in the event of a serious fire, and also to stop something small getting out of hand.
Correct.
Even if you use the unit to bash a door down to escape they have don their job.
I think fire extinguishers have two purposes one to help you get out of a building in the event of a serious fire, and also to stop something small getting out of hand. In the past i used to do a lot of hot works in big factory's fire extinguishers were used daily just as any other tool, water and co2.