I agree with malc think of the weld pool, which you can see and if you notice you`l have a little dark spot rising from it that is your slag, its then you should move your pool foreward keeping that dark spot at the top of your rod/arc as it were, if that makes sense.
- Thread starter Muggins the Mug
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Drains
Yeah, nah.
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Funny Malcolm... I can see the weld pool! You should really be able to see the dividing line twixt moten metal and flux. I know people have been told to immerse the end of the rod in the flux on a 6013, but that's not how I do it. Normal procedure is to strike the arc, very slow movement, even let the arc lengthen a tad until I see a sort of semi-circle ( the keyhole, really), then off we go. If you try a 7016/7018, you'll see the dividing line much more clearly - the slag hardens much quicker, so the line is further away from the electrode.
The problem with not being able to see the weld pool is that it's like welding in the dark, you can't guarantee to get the rod where you want it, and it's a guessing game. It's a skill to learn.
Muggins the Mug
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I did some more welding yesterday and the results are embarrassing.
The first photo is was using a 3.2mm rod @ 120 Amps. I had trouble maintaining an arc as well as consistency, often having to restrike the arc.
The second photo was using a 2.5mm rod @ 95 Amps. Same applies as the above technique.
I need to work with a steadier hand and more control over the rod. It's getting that fine balance between speed and arc length that seems to be the problem for me. Keeping the rod the right distance from the work is probably key to this, I guess?
Any thoughts?
The first photo is was using a 3.2mm rod @ 120 Amps. I had trouble maintaining an arc as well as consistency, often having to restrike the arc.
The second photo was using a 2.5mm rod @ 95 Amps. Same applies as the above technique.
I need to work with a steadier hand and more control over the rod. It's getting that fine balance between speed and arc length that seems to be the problem for me. Keeping the rod the right distance from the work is probably key to this, I guess?
Any thoughts?
Muggins the Mug
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To be honest, I still think I'm a bit nervous when I'm welding. I think this is causing me to tense up and not keep a decent steady pace. Would it be easier with the smaller 2.0mm and 1.6mm rods, or would I be better off with 2.5mm?
Would it be easier with the smaller 2.0mm and 1.6mm rods, or would I be better off with 2.5mm?
Sparkey
Bouncing along!
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To be honest, I still think I'm a bit nervous when I'm welding. I think this is causing me to tense up and not keep a decent steady pace.
Yes, that could be it, muggins!
You really have to get used to all the splattering and sparking...
I think it's the same thing when you're asking someone to hold a workpiece down for you who isn't a welder....they always yerk the piece away once you start the arc....but with practiscing it will get better, i'm sure!!!
Muggins the Mug
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muggs, get a big piece of steel plate and practice practice practice for a couple of hours, oh and 2.5 & 3.2 rods are the easiest to begin with
Funnily enough I did manage better with the larger rods, except the 3.2's caused me to blow a few 13 Amp fuses.
I've got some of those awful SIP 2.5's I got from Halfords - truly awful to strike and maintain an arc. When I've got some more cash I'll try to get the BOC ones, but my local BOC shop was wanting nearly £40 for 5kg. Can I buy them in smaller quantities or get decent rods online without paying a fortune for p&p?aah your using a 13 amp socket, 2.5s will be the best for you then, yesterday i went out and got some 2.5mm weldability rods £7 for 5kg from my engineering supplies shop and to be honest they are pretty good rods compared to their 3.2s, i even got half a peeler (for some strange reason?
) so you can get good cheap rods but id look on ebay for murex,esab and all the good brand name rods
) so you can get good cheap rods but id look on ebay for murex,esab and all the good brand name rods
Normsthename
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It's been quite a while since I did any Stick welding, but I used to always have a peice of copper bar that I would strike the arc on before welding.
The tip will not stick to the copper.
This would warm the Tip up and it was a lot easier to strike the arc when you came to do the proper weld
Andy
Muggins the Mug
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Yeh, the 3.2's were fine till they kept sticking - hence the gaps in the first photo. I'll check out eBay later with the various brand names that have been mentioned elsewhere. Just hope I don't end up with fake ones from eBay LOL.
chrisg3103
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i got my rods from mcluskys, pass them on the road to troon. best place for good rods would be Mathieson in galston, there an actual welding supply place and very helpfull, havnt tryed them for consumables yet as i only found out about them a few months ago
i should be at my workshop tomorrow so can grab a few rods for you to try if you want, cant remember the brand though! might be murex
i should be at my workshop tomorrow so can grab a few rods for you to try if you want, cant remember the brand though! might be murex
Muggins the Mug
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i got my rods from mcluskys, pass them on the road to troon. best place for good rods would be Mathieson in galston, there an actual welding supply place and very helpfull, havnt tryed them for consumables yet as i only found out about them a few months ago
i should be at my workshop tomorrow so can grab a few rods for you to try if you want, cant remember the brand though! might be murex
Hi Chris,
That would be much appreciated. That way I can try some decent stuff.
Regards,
Ian.
Muggins the Mug
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I'd love to make a comment Mr Muggins, but I cannea see them too well.......
Hi Runnach,
I hope this helps, I've put them in my photobucket album and have "supersized" them for you.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/merlin100/welding/Picture037.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/merlin100/welding/Picture037.jpg
Regards,
Ian.
weldingscotty803
what you staring at??????????
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how close are you holding the tip of the electrode to the workpiece. i was always taught to hold it approximatley 1mm from the puddle when you have arc'd up. when i first started with the stick i found it easy to hold the rod at about 60 deg leant back from the weld dragging it. i actually had the rod resting on the material which increased stability . plus the rod will penetrate more as it seems to sink ito the material but dont let it go too far into the weld pool as it will get stuck and you will be there all day trying to get it out. get some 6-8mm meild steel approx 100mm wide x 200mm long. mark a line approx 10mm from the edge all the way down the longest side. weld down that line. leave for a couple of seconds and chip off slag. keep doing this all the way across the material. making sure you remove the slag. overlapping on each weld
this 150 ish mm of weld should use up approx half of the 300mm rods
the thing you need to do is make longer welds. at least 100mm long so you get your speed right
make them as smoothe as possible
count as you go
mark 100mm along some material start welding and counting
should take 20 ish seconds
take a picture
try it again next to it but go at a differen speed aim for 25 sec etc etc
hth
atb scott
this 150 ish mm of weld should use up approx half of the 300mm rods
the thing you need to do is make longer welds. at least 100mm long so you get your speed right
make them as smoothe as possible
count as you go
mark 100mm along some material start welding and counting
should take 20 ish seconds
take a picture
try it again next to it but go at a differen speed aim for 25 sec etc etc
hth
atb scott
Muggins the Mug
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Thanks for the advice Scott, I'll be giving that a wee bash shortly when I've got some plate steel to tinker with...
Regards,
Ian.
Muggins the Mug
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Chris came over with some Bohler Phoenix 6013 2.5mm rods this afternoon. We had a wee shot of one of them using my Powercraft, here's the results...
Photo 1 was using the Bohler Phoenix 6013 @ 70'ish Amps, I believe. Chris wanted to keep the amps down for this test (feel free to correct me Chris). He managed to blow a hole in the 3mm thick mild steel box section, something I've only managed to do with a 3.2mm rod. His next run was better without the big hole (furthest from the camera).
I managed a longer bead that ran parallel to Chris's, it's the one nearest the camera. At the extreme right edge of the photo was me showing off by just running the bead in a circle.
The blackish blob on the left of the photo was Chris's attempt at using the SIP 2.5mm rod, we both agreed that these are nasty rods for the Powercraft and nowhere as easy as the Bohler Phoenix's to use.
The second photo show's Chris's attempt at using one of the OEM 3.2mm @ 115 Amps. Unfortunately he blow a hole in the thin steel which was to be expected. The second attempt blew the 13 Amp fuse after just a short bead. I also suffered the same problems last week using the 3.2mm.
Regards,
Ian.
Photo 1 was using the Bohler Phoenix 6013 @ 70'ish Amps, I believe. Chris wanted to keep the amps down for this test (feel free to correct me Chris). He managed to blow a hole in the 3mm thick mild steel box section, something I've only managed to do with a 3.2mm rod. His next run was better without the big hole (furthest from the camera).
I managed a longer bead that ran parallel to Chris's, it's the one nearest the camera. At the extreme right edge of the photo was me showing off by just running the bead in a circle.
The blackish blob on the left of the photo was Chris's attempt at using the SIP 2.5mm rod, we both agreed that these are nasty rods for the Powercraft and nowhere as easy as the Bohler Phoenix's to use.
The second photo show's Chris's attempt at using one of the OEM 3.2mm @ 115 Amps. Unfortunately he blow a hole in the thin steel which was to be expected. The second attempt blew the 13 Amp fuse after just a short bead. I also suffered the same problems last week using the 3.2mm.
Regards,
Ian.
chrisg3103
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fair enough, did you realy have to show the holes though
that little thing is fierce, the fact it keeps blowing fuses shows that. i use a 13A plug and havnt blown one fuse yet, i weld 2.5 - 3 mm box and dont blow though. dont usuly take pictures of my welding so the only one i can find is a very old camera phone picture of my subframe -
cant actauly see any welds propery though but its lasted 3 years of harsh abuse without falling to bits. keep at it though, doing well 
that little thing is fierce, the fact it keeps blowing fuses shows that. i use a 13A plug and havnt blown one fuse yet, i weld 2.5 - 3 mm box and dont blow though. dont usuly take pictures of my welding so the only one i can find is a very old camera phone picture of my subframe -
cant actauly see any welds propery though
but its lasted 3 years of harsh abuse without falling to bits. keep at it though, doing well 