First Time Welds...

[Muggins the Mug]

fair enough, did you realy have to show the holes though

Nothing like showing everything, warts and all.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Hi folks,

I gave one of the Phoenix 6013's another try today using Chris's tips and suggestions.

This time I got closer to the weld and could see that previously my arc length was too long, as I'd been previously viewing the weld from above. The Phoenix 6013's are so much easier to strike and maintain the arc than other rods that I've used, they are actually a pleasure to use in comparision. I still need to work on slowing down though. This welding lark is getting quite addictive.

Thanks to all those who have shared their thoughts on my first attempts.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[weldingscotty803]

looks better muggins. still need to slow town a bit more. are you standing up or sitting down. make yourself as comfortable as possible. to me that weld looks like you have gone at the right speed then jerked. you can tell due to the width of the weld in places.
just keep practicing.
try butting up 2 pieces of steel leaving a 1-2mm gap and do a run. you may find it a bit easier
just keep practicing mate

atb scott

 

[chrisg3103]

as promissed mr muggins i had a go at the sip's on my machine (ERP 180 turbo) just before i post the pictures lets just make this clear i am in no way shape or form a welder by trade so go easy on the slagging

over all view of the plate

picture speaks a thousand words!

this is the best i could get with the sip rods

had to wack the current way up to stop the arc going out and even then it was stop start all the way along

used the same curent on the bohler for the top weld

lots of spatter and obliterated the end a bit
other 2 were at gradualy reducing currents, much nicer and stike first time!
all the writing was also done with the 2,5 bohler's btw

then had a go at the aldi supplyed 3.2 rods

nearly maxed out the welder before it would strike without sticking, probaly 170 amps. once the rod had some heat and it got going it wasnt actualy too bad, again the start stop arc, hence the drunken weld pattern

so there you go mr muggins, dont buy your rods from hellfrauds anymore these things could put a learner off for life!

 

[Muggins the Mug]

as promissed mr muggins i had a go at the sip's on my machine (ERP 180 turbo) just before i post the pictures lets just make this clear i am in no way shape or form a welder by trade so go easy on the slagging

so there you go mr muggins, dont buy your rods from hellfrauds anymore these things could put a learner off for life!

Hi Chris,

I'm glad you've experienced the same problems as I did with the SIP Halfords rods, then it's not just me being a total novice then.

Those other rods I gave you weren't 3.2's but 4's. That's how you had to whack up the amps to get them to work.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[irondarren]

There is a big difference in rod quality and the way they weld. cheapo rods can be bought for £15 for 5kgs, nice ones £30 for 5kg. big difference. problem is for messing about you dont want to waste good rods. go to BOC and get there everyday rods, they are cheap enough. the other tip is make sure they are dry. if need be put them in the oven on about 150 degrees for 1/2 hr. dry rods make all the difference. if you use them right out of the oven hot they strike lovely. for about £45 ish you can get heated quivers that heat the rods to about 100 degs C, they hold 5kg + of rods. if used out of the quiver its like a total different welding experience.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

I decided to try a few beads with the Phoenix 6013's 2.5's tonight after installing the new 32 Amp industrial supply.

These beads were laid at 80 Amps. I think I still need to improve on my rod control (speed and arc distance) though, but having said that I'm not afraid of striking an arc any more.

The first photo, the bead was laid right to left but my hand was a bit nervous laying it at first. I used a chalk straight line for this one.

By the second photo I felt a bit more confident, but did it "free hand" without the chalk.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[gavuk]

Still a bit quick Ian ,it is is addictive isn't it ,u wait till the splatter is burning through your clothes burning your arm and you won't move in case you mess up a good weld.........also if u now have your head a bit closer and can see your arc length use your ears as you can hear when it changes,i hate it when the shop is too noisy , good work keep practising ........Gav

 

[Paul.]

Try turning the current up a bit, say 90 - 95 amps, and use a touch welding technique, strike up and gently touch the electrode down on the plate then drag it along, the core will burn up inside the flux and give a cupping effect in the end of the rod, the depth of the cup will set the arc length. some more info in an older post here

 

[scarecrow]

Maybe try straightening the rod up a bit

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Try turning the current up a bit, say 90 - 95 amps, and use a touch welding technique, strike up and gently touch the electrode down on the plate then drag it along, the core will burn up inside the flux and give a cupping effect in the end of the rod, the depth of the cup will set the arc length. some more info in an older post here

Hi Paul,

I'll give that a wee try tomorrow when I've got some time. You've got some really nice peelers there, something I hope to achieve at some point.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Maybe try straightening the rod up a bit

Hi scarecrow,

I didn't notice any drag, but it wouldn't surprise me if I had it leaning over.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Hi folks,

As mentioned elsewhere, I bought some of those 2.5's from Lidl today to try them out.

The 3 photos below show you the results that I got from these E4322 2.5's. I varied the current between 70 Amps and 90 Amps and found that the rods produced a lot of splatter at any current. With the lower current they were more prone to sticking, as was to be expected. If you didn't know any better, you'd think these photos were taking when I first started to weld and not recently.

I would say that these rods are slightly harder to strike than the Phoenix 6013's, but easier than the horrible SIP's. I found that the arc length has to be spot on otherwise they extinguish easily, because of this I found that TIG Paul's suggested method of "touch welding" works better with these rods. My rod control still needs a lot of work and as soon as is practical, I'll be sourcing a decent piece of plate steel to work on.

Thanks for bearing with me.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[irondarren]

Its good to see, i know malcolm started a learning arc welding thread, but i believe a contactor put pay to that. With arc so many people seem to rush, not allowing the rod to weld, thus not getting enough weld on the job. This might be in part due to the fact that the slag makes the weld look thicker, only when you chip it off, do you realise you were traveling to fast. Its nothing more than practice. neat lines and lots of them, until it be comes consistantly good. Use two hands if you need to.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

Hi Darren,

Thanks for the input there, as always I enjoy the guidance of people with more experience than myself (that would be most of you LOL). I've got one of those cheap flipdown lids and whilst I try to weld with both hands, I still get the wobbles. I'm determined to steady my hand as well as looking into getting an auto darkening lid so that I can see where my striking point is. I think I'm frightened to go too slow as I tend to blow holes in the metal, as can be seen in the photos.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[irondarren]

well mug this is just for you lol, you dont realise how difficult it is to hold a camera in on hand and a welding rod in the other . I was shot through a shade 11 lens not ideal for camera, but what it does show is when i allow the arc to lengthen a little to much the arc becomes brighter, also you can here the change in sound. hopefully it might help you and a few others trying to learn the secret of arc welding
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=gjCnltle-Gs

 

[bawjaws]

what thickness is the metal your welding ian?

 

[bawjaws]

you do the forum good darren is that it starting to peel at the end of the vid?

 

[Muggins the Mug]

well mug this is just for you lol, you dont realise how difficult it is to hold a camera in on hand and a welding rod in the other . I was shot through a shade 11 lens not ideal for camera, but what it does show is when i allow the arc to lengthen a little to much the arc becomes brighter, also you can here the change in sound. hopefully it might help you and a few others trying to learn the secret of arc welding
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=gjCnltle-Gs

Hi Darren,

I've heard that familiar "frying bacon" sound a couple of times, but never often enough.

Regards,

Ian.

 

[Muggins the Mug]

what thickness is the metal your welding ian?

Hi bawjaws,

3mm thick 50mm quare section, although I'm hoping to get some 4-5mm plate as soon as the scrapy reopens early next week.

Regards,

Ian.