Fitting myself a UPVC door.

[gaz1]

those bricks look to be the 3 hole type id advice against grinding down the center of them

but grind the cement out of the joining brick per level

with ebay comp doors buy what you can use and fit into place quickly and you can get a good range there

including door with frames

 

[brightspark]

I checked into composite doors. But they were well up there in the price range. I’ll give Ebay a look at, might be something local to me and available right now. The step is definitly going to be a pain if I’m narrowing stuff in and out.


I have a few 4 and 5” grinders, buying a masonry disc for that definitly sounds better than buying a 9” grinder.

a cheapo diamond disk will do it https://www.google.co.uk/search?sou...BB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab#spf=1587129816732 get a one with the slits in better dust clearance

 

[Morrisman]

I've checked a few places, nobody is making or delivering doors. Ebay, nobody with the right sized door frame is close.

I think I'll just mope about the house instead, until my fence paint arrives from Amazon.

I'm sure I can stretch that job out a few weeks, unless my 1" paintbrush expires first .....

 

[addjunkie]

Try wicks, and been and qued they sell such things...but probably sold out!

 

[jsf55]

Make sure you get one that opens out, saves garage space and handy to get more ventilation in.

 

[rtcosic]

Make sure you get one that opens out, saves garage space and handy to get more ventilation in.

And don't forget to add a stay for when the wind grabs it out of your hand, slams it against the wall and breaks the glass.

Mount the frame flush with the outside of the brick, not central. Then the door can open 180 deg flush with the wall which is useful when moving stuff in and out. But the stay or stop needs to be easy to disconnect. If all else fails a chain and spring will do.

 

[Morrisman]

And don't forget to add a stay for when the wind grabs it out of your hand, slams it against the wall and breaks the glass.

Mount the frame flush with the outside of the brick, not central. Then the door can open 180 deg flush with the wall which is useful when moving stuff in and out. But the stay or stop needs to be easy to disconnect. If all else fails a chain and spring will do.

That was something I wanted to double check, that the door fold right back and clip flat to the wall. It’s only a single layer brick wall so should be simple enough to ought flush to the outside. If and when I can find the right door.....
I have a 90cm gap, so not a bee common door.

 

[Pete.]

If you cut both sides with a 9" grinder you'll get right through but a 5" grinder only cuts 30-35mm in masonry so you'll have a bit in the middle.

Mark the opening with a level and be sure to flip it over to double-check the marks are plumb. Also put a tape across the marks top and bottom to make sure the gap is consistent (I once cut a door opening in a 400mm thick concrete wall but the engineer's level was out and it was 40mm narrower at the top).

Make sure the opening is at least 10mm bigger than the door frame, 10mm all round is safer. That'll allow you to square the frame.

Finally when you hang the door you'll need to wedge it up to toe-and-heel the infill panels or it'll droop. I didn't know about this when I hung the front door and kept trying to adjust it on the hinges when it wouldn't close properly. When I bought a new door for the back it came with instructions, so after I fitted that one I had to remove the panels from the front door and do it again. Ever since then it's been perfect.

 

[Morrisman]

If you cut both sides with a 9" grinder you'll get right through but a 5" grinder only cuts 30-35mm in masonry so you'll have a bit in the middle.

Mark the opening with a level and be sure to flip it over to double-check the marks are plumb. Also put a tape across the marks top and bottom to make sure the gap is consistent (I once cut a door opening in a 400mm thick concrete wall but the engineer's level was out and it was 40mm narrower at the top).

Make sure the opening is at least 10mm bigger than the door frame, 10mm all round is safer. That'll allow you to square the frame.

Finally when you hang the door you'll need to wedge it up to toe-and-heel the infill panels or it'll droop. I didn't know about this when I hung the front door and kept trying to adjust it on the hinges when it wouldn't close properly. When I bought a new door for the back it came with instructions, so after I fitted that one I had to remove the panels from the front door and do it again. Ever since then it's been perfect.

The window is 910mm wide, so I’ll drop verticals from there, and double check they are in line with what is there, and parallel etc. The place I tried to order the door from says to order the frame 10mm narrower than the narrowest point of the hole, which seems sensible. But they aren’t taking orders, neither is anywhere else.

I started digging footings for my new workshop and shed slab...but nowhere is delivering bagged hardcore. Wickes look like they deliver wood, but not even sure if I can get concrete, were it possible to get the shuttering and hardcore in..... and it started raining soon after my shovel bit into the grass.....after a month of solid sunshine.....

 

[Mikey D]

The quarries are still open (well round here they are ) , you could get a tipper load of type 1 stone prob be ten tonne minimum tho ! Or skip hire place get some crushed rubble ?? (Quality can be a bit variable tho , I know I use too work for one ..... might end up with more soil than actually crushed hardcore

I've had aggregates delivered before when ordering a skip to fill with subsoil /waste , or theres grab hire as well ....

 

[Morrisman]

The quarries are still open (well round here they are ) , you could get a tipper load of type 1 stone prob be ten tonne minimum tho ! Or skip hire place get some crushed rubble ?? (Quality can be a bit variable tho , I know I use too work for one ..... might end up with more soil than actually crushed hardcore

I've had aggregates delivered before when ordering a skip to fill with subsoil /waste , or theres grab hire as well ....

That’s just it, I’ve no idea exactly what is going to arrive, and I only really need one bag. It’s going to be a wooden workshop maybe 4 x 5, no car going in there, so doesn’t need a mega slab under it.

 

[jsf55]

And don't forget to add a stay for when the wind grabs it out of your hand, slams it against the wall and breaks the glass.

Mount the frame flush with the outside of the brick, not central. Then the door can open 180 deg flush with the wall which is useful when moving stuff in and out. But the stay or stop needs to be easy to disconnect. If all else fails a chain and spring will do.

Always spec laminate for the garage door for that reason and also it keeps the burglars out ! i fitted a latch to mine so it's either open or closed

 

[mtt.tr]

These are the fixings i use for most jobs
https://www.toolstation.com/masonry...P9J8Q_-iF3eRwnyjrEbnydf8i7XeG2_4aAiqdEALw_wcB


I also use the u-shaped packers for the frame.

The glass should be heel and toed as said above stops the door dropping buy the flat packers for this.

For £30 id buy a proper plastic pry bar and deglazing chisel, ive removed alot of units and I'm yet to damage the frame or bead, not so easy with the wrong tool
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Window-Gla...&keywords=glazing+tools&qid=1587203860&sr=8-3


For foaming around the frame buy the propper upvc foam it doesn't expand as much but is far tougher really stops any movement.


When ordering take off 5mm on bothside and 5mm on the head

 

[gaz1]

alternative you could always build a steel door and frame in 2mm steel

 

[Morrisman]

alternative you could always build a steel door and frame in 2mm steel

View attachment 224158

I thought making a simple cheap door from plywood, but decided I want something that looks pretty, and works well, and let’s light in etc.

 

[gaz1]

security is my thing so it would be a door blank

with a window closest to that is a composite door part of reason why i mentioned it

 

[Matchless]

These are the fixings i use for most jobs
https://www.toolstation.com/masonry...P9J8Q_-iF3eRwnyjrEbnydf8i7XeG2_4aAiqdEALw_wcB


I also use the u-shaped packers for the frame.

The glass should be heel and toed as said above stops the door dropping buy the flat packers for this.

For £30 id buy a proper plastic pry bar and deglazing chisel, ive removed alot of units and I'm yet to damage the frame or bead, not so easy with the wrong tool
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Window-Gla...&keywords=glazing+tools&qid=1587203860&sr=8-3


For foaming around the frame buy the propper upvc foam it doesn't expand as much but is far tougher really stops any movement.


When ordering take off 5mm on bothside and 5mm on the head

those brick screws are the dogs, use them a lot, a window fitter mate put me onto them,

 

[Matchless]

I have bought loads of secondhand doors, most with frames off ebay, ideal for sheds, or rental flat conversions! look for nearest first, you could maybe even go slightly wider depending on the lintel, yes I should have looked at the picture before typing this! and you can plane down a PVC frame a bit if you are no better than me at measuring!

 

[Rig Pig]

I'd have a look for a second hand one on Facebook/Gumtree, I put one in my workshop when I built it.

Just a suggestion, if you haven't used a big grinder on brick before make sure you have a full face screen and dust mask, it's unbelievable messy to wet cut and more dusty than a dusty thing dry!

 

[addjunkie]

That’s just it, I’ve no idea exactly what is going to arrive, and I only really need one bag. It’s going to be a wooden workshop maybe 4 x 5, no car going in there, so doesn’t need a mega slab under it.

Some builders merchants are still delivering, I normally use Jewson or MKM, both closed so I used another, but speakng to MKM rep on Friday, they are starting delveries again, but theres delivery ques. I got a 80 ton of 40mm scalpings dropped yesterday, straight from the quarry. Come buy Ill fill a bag for you and lift it in the back of your car.