Fitting myself a UPVC door.

[Revs1972]

alternative you could always build a steel door and frame in 2mm steel

View attachment 224158

Has the Hulk been trying to smash his way out of that ?

 

[brightspark]

Has the Hulk been trying to smash his way out of that ?

the whole lot looks ramshackle

 

[Morrisman]

Some builders merchants are still delivering, I normally use Jewson or MKM, both closed so I used another, but speakng to MKM rep on Friday, they are starting delveries again, but theres delivery ques. I got a 80 ton of 40mm scalpings dropped yesterday, straight from the quarry. Come buy Ill fill a bag for you and lift it in the back of your car.

Stafford to Northumberland, and back, bumper scraping, essential supplies officer.

 

[addjunkie]

Stafford to Northumberland, and back, bumper scraping, essential supplies officer.

It wouldnt be an issue I have another 40 ton coming Monday morning.

 

[Morrisman]

It wouldnt be an issue I have another 40 ton coming Monday morning.

230 miles, each way, Nah, not a problem.

 

[gaz1]

Has the Hulk been trying to smash his way out of that ?

nope i want it seen but also it was around my first few weldings

lets just say ive had enough looking at it.

good luck to those that break in and the ones that know me knows that i mean it

 

[Onoff]

I just made a proper hash of fitting a 2nd hand upvc door here. Bottom right is low. Debating on taking it out and doing it again:

 

[slimjim]

One of the easiest and cleanest way to cut a doorway, is to use a sds plus drill,

Mark the cut line, then drill a hole right through, from outside to inside, every 10mm right down the cut line, you can do some diagonal drilling as well, the advantage over an angry grinder is it’s quieter, and is much cleaner, once you have the holes drilled, a hammer and chisel breaks the bricks easily, and to the line, or use the sds as a chisel if it works only on hammer, it generally works out more accurate as well, because keeping to the line with a grinder is difficult, it’s specially useful when cutting blockwork.

 

[Pete.]

I just made a proper hash of fitting a 2nd hand upvc door here. Bottom right is low. Debating on taking it out and doing it again:

View attachment 224336

Cat flap is in backwards isn't it?

 

[mtt.tr]

Cat flap is in backwards isn't it?

Whole door

 

[Morrisman]

One of the easiest and cleanest way to cut a doorway, is to use a sds plus drill,

Mark the cut line, then drill a hole right through, from outside to inside, every 10mm right down the cut line, you can do some diagonal drilling as well, the advantage over an angry grinder is it’s quieter, and is much cleaner, once you have the holes drilled, a hammer and chisel breaks the bricks easily, and to the line, or use the sds as a chisel if it works only on hammer, it generally works out more accurate as well, because keeping to the line with a grinder is difficult, it’s specially useful when cutting blockwork.

I drilled this wall to put a water spigot through, drilled carefully... but it still knocked a big piece of brick off the other side, looks a right mess, needs some cement in. The bricks seem to be the one day with the big depression in the top. I think chain drilling it might not work very well.

 

[angellonewolf]

the way to drill walls theres a knack drill with hammer on when your near breaking through let off pressure and if possable turn off hammer action

 

[Morrisman]

the way to drill walls theres a knack drill with hammer on when your near breaking through let off pressure and if possable turn off hammer action

Good idea, never thought of turning the hammer off.

 

[angellonewolf]

when possable drill outside to in easyer to fill plaster than replace bricks

 

[roofman]

The cheaper end drills tend to have a rough hammer and if you have ever used a Hilti SDS hammer then you would know what i mean as they have a refined higher geared hammer and don't pound there way through

 

[Morrisman]

The cheaper end drills tend to have a rough hammer and if you have ever used a Hilti SDS hammer then you would know what i mean as they have a refined higher geared hammer and don't pound there way through

Mine is a Screwfix special, £39 15 years ago.

 

[Onoff]

Cat flap is in backwards isn't it?

Whole door

That was deliberate. Internal door, Off of the boiler room into the house. Had to open this way, into the kitchen. 2nd hand of Gumtree for £40 from memory.

The outer door I did, again second hand, free off a mate (his old, inner front door), came out perfect. There I had to widen the opening with a 9" grinder and diamond blade. Cut against a batten screwed to the wall. I used wooden wedges there to get everything square and level first.

 

[Onoff]

I had a load of these cut when I did my doors and windows previous. Absolute Godsend:

 

[Onoff]

If I cut the foam out around my dodgy door can I maybe back the 10mm frame fixings off or even remove the screw section, re wedge the thing plumb and level then foam. Once set REUSE the same frame fixing holes by hammering the screws back in.

Or will I need to redrill in new positions?

Cheers

 

[MattF]

Likely redrill. You'll be trying to pull the frame back to the old position, if not. If the holes match up, fine, but otherwise redrill. Get the hinge side leg level/plumb & fixed, then jiggle the rest of the frame to perfection. Use flat packers. You can leave them in there & cut any protrusion off once fixed & foamed. A pry bar is your friend for adjustment, rather than using tapered wedges. A block of wood & hammer for tapping corners forward or back.